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Atlas Fishard
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« Reply #100 on: March 30, 2011, 02:45:52 am » |
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I'm looking just to rust the normal brass tubes (shiny brownish) to something unexpected, but also maybe someone should have a look on the script of the "spoiler" button on "how to age button", I can't seem to get it to open Thankyou, A P.S. Btw your laser and radioactive pins are awesome in real life  |
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JingleJoe
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« Reply #101 on: April 24, 2011, 07:50:43 pm » |
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You can't rust brass but you can corrode it or oxidize it, spray it with salt water to turn it green and other weird colours which old brass/copper turns with time.
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Atlas Fishard
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« Reply #102 on: April 24, 2011, 09:17:06 pm » |
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You can't rust brass but you can corrode it or oxidize it, spray it with salt water to turn it green and other weird colours which old brass/copper turns with time.
Gotcha thanks a bunch Regards, A |
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JingleJoe
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« Reply #103 on: April 25, 2011, 08:37:10 pm » |
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You can't rust brass but you can corrode it or oxidize it, spray it with salt water to turn it green and other weird colours which old brass/copper turns with time.
Gotcha thanks a bunch Regards, A The key to making that work is to do as little as possible to the brass, keep it damp with salty water for a little while; re-spray it when it dries out over the course of a few days, then leave it, do nothing, don't even touch it for a few days. Don't touch it while the water is on it either, the brass I've fiddled with and poked around didn't oxidize nearly as well as the stuff I just left with some salty water on. |
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Atlas Fishard
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« Reply #104 on: April 29, 2011, 03:27:04 am » |
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You can't rust brass but you can corrode it or oxidize it, spray it with salt water to turn it green and other weird colours which old brass/copper turns with time.
Gotcha thanks a bunch Regards, A The key to making that work is to do as little as possible to the brass, keep it damp with salty water for a little while; re-spray it when it dries out over the course of a few days, then leave it, do nothing, don't even touch it for a few days. Don't touch it while the water is on it either, the brass I've fiddled with and poked around didn't oxidize nearly as well as the stuff I just left with some salty water on. Thankyou for such kind advice, I will keep that in mind, Regards, A |
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ValancyJane
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« Reply #105 on: June 12, 2011, 07:12:14 pm » |
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I found this quick and easy tutorial on EPBOT on how to make gauges for steampunk projects. Thought it might be useful to some here. |
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"Steampunk makes me feel like we can rewind the future, take tech in new directions, and wear better clothes." Scott Westerfeld via Twitter.
"Steampunk is...a fish...with a cog on its head"
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #106 on: June 12, 2011, 09:43:58 pm » |
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That's a rather nice trick  Thanks for the link! |
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #107 on: September 12, 2011, 02:43:42 pm » |
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Hi, it's me again  How can I drill holes into bone? I suppose I could just try, but I want to get it right in one go |
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Strapped-4-Cache
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« Reply #108 on: October 27, 2011, 08:32:01 pm » |
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Hi, it's me again How can I drill holes into bone? I suppose I could just try, but I want to get it right in one go Not sure if this is too late to help, but I got a bit of experience in this when I made bone scales for a straight razor. There's nothing too elaborate with my technique. I use a vice and a hand (not electric) drill with a new, sharp bit. * Clamp the piece firmly to ensure it doesn't move. * Mark the spot you want to drill with a scribe or punch to keep the bit from walking as it turns. * Press the bit against the marked spot and begin turning it, using steady, consistent pressure. Bone can be fragile, so there's no need to use a lot of pressure if you can avoid doing so. * If the hole you need is fairly big, use gradually larger bits until you reach the correct size. There's a couple of benefits to drilling the holes in this somewhat old-fashioned way. You can easily control the progress of the bit through the material, and you tend to avoid the "burning hair" stench that often occurs when drilling bone with a high-speed drill. Hope this helps, - Mark |
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #109 on: October 27, 2011, 08:48:47 pm » |
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That does help, actually What kind of bit did you use? One meant for metal, or...? |
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Strapped-4-Cache
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« Reply #110 on: October 27, 2011, 09:14:03 pm » |
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I use a good, basic woodworking bit. Bone isn't terribly hard, unless you're working with fossilized stuff.
A clean, sharp woodworking bit will easily cut through bone, even with a hand drill.
It only takes ONE time burning a bone with a high-speed drill to help you learn to do the work slowly by hand or in a well-ventilated area. Better yet, outside. Bone can STINK if it's worked too fast. You may still get some smell with the hand drill, but not nearly what you would with the electric one.
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #111 on: October 27, 2011, 09:29:53 pm » |
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Duly noted :-) I think I know enough; thanks!
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jemamus
Deck Hand
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« Reply #112 on: April 27, 2012, 01:23:36 am » |
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I didn't see it in here, and maybe i'm not looking properly or in the right place but I'm about to start ..."torch soldering" some copper tubing together for a wine glass chandlier to hang above my bar. Is there a tutorial on here for how to fit brass piping together to make it water tight? I plan on having liquor bottles upside down on top of the wine glass rack and a spigot to dispense various whiskey's.  |
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Letter writing is the only device for combining solitude with good company - Lord Byron
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Kittybriton
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« Reply #113 on: April 27, 2012, 02:20:28 am » |
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Without wishing to derail Jemamus' question (reply #112), I should like to offer here, my method for making slightly mad spectacles: The acrylic for the lenses was acquired as a sample pack from the manufacturer. |
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« Last Edit: April 27, 2012, 02:22:21 am by Kittybriton »
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Angus A Fitziron
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« Reply #114 on: April 27, 2012, 07:40:41 pm » |
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I didn't see it in here, and maybe i'm not looking properly or in the right place but I'm about to start ..."torch soldering" some copper tubing together for a wine glass chandlier to hang above my bar. Is there a tutorial on here for how to fit brass piping together to make it water tight? I plan on having liquor bottles upside down on top of the wine glass rack and a spigot to dispense various whiskey's. Copper and brass tubing can be soldered to make water tight joints - after all that is what it was mostly designed to do! However, if I read your post correctly you intend to pass alcohol through the said pipes. I would be less happy about this despite the use of copper vessels in distilling. I think you will find that when used for spirits, copper and brass are 'tinned' on the inside surfaces and I mean, with real tin. If it was me, I would scrap the whole idea and use the copper pipe as an outer structural, decorative skin. Then run small bore, food quality plastic pipe through it and use matching plastic spigots. I am sure these are available, even if it means raiding the home aquarium store! |
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Airship Artificer, part-time romantik and amateur Natural Philosopher
"wee all here are much troubled with the loss of poor Thompson & Sutton"
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Jedediah Solomon
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« Reply #115 on: October 09, 2012, 06:24:12 pm » |
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umm that sausage thing isnt very steampunk hahaha  but I'll make a new section for it - "not very steampunk" the rest are great thanks and I hope there many more from everyone! You impune the steamyness of my sausage? You do not realise your peril. http://www.flickr.com/photos/25319679@N05/?saved=1Please understand.... this was a steamed Sausage, not fried. |
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Adventure awaits
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Herbert West
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« Reply #116 on: April 14, 2014, 01:36:46 am » |
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Wow, not a lot of action here lately. I discovered quite accidentally today an easy way to simulate a faux cast iron texture with just regular spray paint. In hindsight I don't know why I didn't think of it before. 1. Spray object with texture paint, the kind used to add fake stone textures on objects. 2. Once its dry, overspray with matte black. That's it. 3. Mist with a little reddish brown if you want to add a hint of rust. |
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« Last Edit: April 14, 2014, 04:58:20 am by Herbert West »
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"I'm not a psychopath Anderson, I'm a high-functioning sociopath. Do your research!" ~Sherlock Holmes
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Drew P
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« Reply #117 on: April 14, 2014, 02:54:11 am » |
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Cool and thanks!
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Never ask 'Why?'
Always ask 'Why not!?'
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ArtWench Prime
Deck Hand
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Itinerant Artist
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« Reply #118 on: July 22, 2016, 08:11:05 pm » |
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I'm looking just to rust the normal brass tubes (shiny brownish) to something unexpected, but also maybe someone should have a look on the script of the "spoiler" button on "how to age button", I can't seem to get it to open Thankyou, A P.S. Btw your laser and radioactive pins are awesome in real life Okay, so I'm not sure about this since I've yet to try it; however, I read somewhere that vinegar also speeds up the aging process of brass. Also, rather kerfuddled at the idea of reanimating a sausage... |
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