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Author Topic: Where to get faux rivets?  (Read 1834 times)
Waxeater
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« on: December 05, 2011, 07:23:42 pm »

Hello all! I need help in finding something that resembles rivets, in multiple sizes, that can be painted and attached to wood and plastic. The closest stores I have around where I live is Michael's and Hobby Lobby, but it requires a small journey to get there, so I would like to know what to look for a quick pop-in (By someone else..).
Thank you,
Waxeater
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« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2011, 07:35:32 pm »

This thread asking the same thing may help.

http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,175.0.html
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« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2011, 10:46:47 pm »

You can order them through the web:
Go to Tandy and search for "rivets". Here's one example: Easy-to-Do Rivets and Setter.
Stimpson Quick Rivets looks like a wholesaler.
Rapid Rivets
I've heard them called Hollow Rivets, Easy Rivets, Handy Rivets, and Quick Rivets.
How to use hollow rivets
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« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2011, 11:29:45 pm »


Depending on the scale and materials you;re working with there are a few different options for faux rivets

1) most craft places sell strips of self adhesive domes or hemispheres in various sizes often as faux pearls or other jewels, these are good for atatching to flat surfaces and painting,

2) Upholstery brads, a bit like thumb tacks but with a more pronounced dome to the head, these come in a range of metal finishes including brass and can easily be pushed straight into soft materials and wood

3) adhesive 'blobs' often the best solutions for small scale rivets, you can experiment with different viscosities of glues and different application methods like brushes, matchsticks and syringes to get the desired result

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« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2011, 11:42:18 pm »

I use these, I get them from MJ trimming

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SPBrewer
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« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2011, 11:46:36 pm »

If it is a model size project might I suggest Micro Mark (www.micromark.com) could help.
They have HO scale raised rivets that apply like a decal.  See:

http://www.micromark.com/HO-scale-decals-with-raised-3D-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9968.html

Also, for small scale plastic work, there is a wheel on a handle used in sewing that might help.
I forgot what the item is called, in sewing it is used to trace a design.  It looks like a old western spur, but with many more points about an inch in diameter.  Roll it on the BACK side of the plastic and it makes little pimples in the plastic stand out.  They look just like rivets.
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« Reply #6 on: December 05, 2011, 11:49:37 pm »

If it is a model size project might I suggest Micro Mark (www.micromark.com) could help.
They have HO scale raised rivets that apply like a decal.  See:

http://www.micromark.com/HO-scale-decals-with-raised-3D-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9968.html

Also, for small scale plastic work, there is a wheel on a handle used in sewing that might help.
I forgot what the item is called, in sewing it is used to trace a design.  It looks like a old western spur, but with many more points about an inch in diameter.  Roll it on the BACK side of the plastic and it makes little pimples in the plastic stand out.  They look just like rivets.



Overstitch wheel Smiley
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SPBrewer
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« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2011, 06:16:32 am »

Overstitch wheel Smiley

Thanks!
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Joeynana
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« Reply #8 on: December 09, 2011, 10:42:56 am »

I've been using pine cover buttons in my project. It requires drilling, but looks fantastic.
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« Reply #9 on: December 09, 2011, 02:14:54 pm »

Pine rivets do work, I've used them in several projects.  I've even taken a hammer to them to make them look a little beat up.  However pine nuts are much tastier.
 heres some I did for a quick frame I made up.



« Last Edit: December 09, 2011, 04:24:21 pm by Dr Insidious T BoneHammer » Logged

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« Reply #10 on: December 09, 2011, 02:43:03 pm »

If it is a model size project might I suggest Micro Mark (www.micromark.com) could help.
They have HO scale raised rivets that apply like a decal.  See:

http://www.micromark.com/HO-scale-decals-with-raised-3D-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9968.html


And they are quite horrible. I tried a set and they were so badly printed as to be unusable.

Much better are those from Archer Transfers who do a wider range of rivet size/spacing and for more than just HO - they also do plenty of other resin-printed 'textured decals' for treadplate, canvas, louvres, weld lines, etc.

No connection with Archer other than as a very satisfied customer.
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« Reply #11 on: December 09, 2011, 03:27:54 pm »

For faux rivets I've used a hole  punch  in thin card stock for the disks.   Then  using a range  of different sized nail punches with domes recesses, a sharp  hammer blow will dome the card disks.    A little thined  PVA coating  or  clear laquer will seal  the top  and allow them to be painted or lacquered to  the desired colour.
A dremel  with a round bur can  be used  to make domes to  any size  in a short piece  or round stock.  Hardwood dowel or brass are effective for cardboard.

Rivet snap  sets are available from a tool  suppliers too and do  both that and the  propper job too.

Ps.. to  spray card disks,  place  onto masking tape to  stop  the spray scattering them.


For the more adventurous,  disk  punches are available from jewellery suppliers or premade from craft suppliers to  give you an unlimited supply  of copper  or brass disks for rivet tips.

Personally I prefer drilling a pin hole and push  fitting an actual  rivet into them.
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Welder666
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« Reply #12 on: December 09, 2011, 06:16:12 pm »

Well you could always use pop rivets.  Pull the nail/pin out and save then as they are essentially finishing nails and then drill a small hole slightly smaller then the rivet in the wood for your project and hammer them in.  That way friction holds them in place and the top of the rivet is larger then the rest/has a lip so it catches so they don't go too far in.  The only thing about pop rivets is they do have a hole in the middle of them and they aren't brass, but I thought it couldn't hurt to suggest them.

Here is what a pop rivet looks like.  Pretty much a nail with a rivet pushed on it.  You just want the rivet part, which is usually easily pulled off the nail;

http://www.gd-wholesale.com/userimg/11/697i1/dome-head-blind-rivet-890.jpg
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« Reply #13 on: December 09, 2011, 06:50:23 pm »

My local hardware shop sells round-headed (hemispherical) drawing pins (300 for £2.50) made by JAK. Going to their site I can't find them, so I assume that they don't make them any more, unfortunately. But they can still be found in small hardware shops and on ebay (such as here: http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/350212604484?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar ).

As can't afford to work in metal, everything I've made so far has been from wood painted to look like metal, so drawing pins are ideal.
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SPBrewer
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« Reply #14 on: December 09, 2011, 08:37:37 pm »

If it is a model size project might I suggest Micro Mark (www.micromark.com) could help.
They have HO scale raised rivets that apply like a decal.  See:

http://www.micromark.com/HO-scale-decals-with-raised-3D-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9968.html


And they are quite horrible. I tried a set and they were so badly printed as to be unusable.

Much better are those from Archer Transfers who do a wider range of rivet size/spacing and for more than just HO - they also do plenty of other resin-printed 'textured decals' for treadplate, canvas, louvres, weld lines, etc.

No connection with Archer other than as a very satisfied customer.


Oh sure!  Say that AFTER I bought two sheets!  Smiley
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