|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« on: February 05, 2008, 07:12:28 pm » |
|
Some of you may remember this pistol for which I was searching a while back. I managed to track down the 4 inch model, which looks almost identical. Unfortunately the 6 inch model isn't available at present, as the government aren't too happy about its tremendous muzzle velocity, which is apparently in breach of airsoft regulations (the 4 inch model just comes in under the regulated limit). So I purchased the 4 inch model and thought I'd play around with it. This is where I am so far.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
akumabito
Immortal

 Netherlands
Mundus Patria Nostra!
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2008, 07:20:59 pm » |
|
What model is that? It looks familiar, just don't remember what it's called...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ColinJReed
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2008, 07:24:51 pm » |
|
Ah, that looks very nice so far! i can't wait to see the finished product. Good work!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2008, 07:31:59 pm » |
|
Thanks guys. As to what model it is, well that took me days to find out. I saw it in a local airsoft shop, took a photo of it (the one you see in the first image), then went back a week later to purchase it only to find it had been sold. They couldn't tell me the model number, so I went looking for it online. Days later I had asked about it on a US site to no avail, and found it on a French airsoft site, where the members there were wondering what it was also. It was from the French site that I discovered it was the Win Gun 702BK. A little more research, and I discovered that Win Gun was in fact a Taiwanese manufacturer of airsoft guns, and that their headquarters and factory are actually just outside Taipei. I returned to my local airsoft store and ordered the gun. When I went in today they told me that the 6 inch model wasn't available, but offered me the 4 inch model. After looking it over I decided to take it. It's big, heavy, ugly, completely metal (except for the plastic grip), and incredibly loud when fired (if it's too close to your head, your ears will hurt). It has tremendous potential for Steampunk, especially with that black base and the CO2 cylinder in the handle.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Atterton
Master Tinkerer
 
Only The Shadow knows
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2008, 07:33:57 pm » |
|
Nice gun, though I can understand if the police have a problem with you having it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
In space, no one can hear you steam.
|
|
|
akumabito
Immortal

 Netherlands
Mundus Patria Nostra!
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2008, 07:36:35 pm » |
|
...any idea what real-life gun it was based on? (if any)
I quite like the look of it. Though I have to agre, the 6 inch barrel version is the one to have..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2008, 07:44:25 pm » |
|
Atterton, airsoft rules over here are amazingly lax compared with Australia, and even the US. You are not required to blaze the muzzle of the weapon (as you are in the US and Australia), and you are not required to register and own a license for the weapon (as you are in Australia). In Australia airsoft weapons come under the Firearms Act, and are treated as a Category A weapon.
The only problem Taiwan has with the 6 inch model of this gun is the muzzle velocity. This particular gun is known to be very powerful, and apparently (and I know nothing about this other than what I've been told in the store), the 6 inch model has a muzzle velocity which has exceeded the limit for airsoft weapons. That wouldn't surprise me given the way the 4 inch model sounds.
akumabito, I don't know what it was based on. Perhaps a Falcon or something. I don't know much about firearms. All I know is that this thing, even before being painted, looked dangerously real. I can see why there is no way I would be allowed to take this into Australia.
Suggestions for further modification would be welcome.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Affian
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2008, 08:18:49 pm » |
|
You could get some epoxy modelling putty and fill the area in the grip where the cover was for the propellent, that would make it nicer to hold too with the cover off. Or maybe you could cut a matching hole in that missing cover and put in a perspex window to look like a pressure chamber.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Baron Nicodemus Ainsworth ÆON
|
|
|
|
theMadTinker
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2008, 09:17:53 pm » |
|
Screens seem to be in fashion at the moment, maybe instead of a Plexiglas (I assume that's what perspex is outside of the states?) cover...and a nice glowing LED in there to light the thing up. Nice ting about the LED is it then means having to stick more crap on to power the thing, leading to more random crap bolted on, and that's always a good thing, right?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
It's not a skirt, it's a kilt; and ye ken why it's called a kilt? Because I kilt everyone who called it a skirt. You won't get far trying to argue semantics with an English major. The Urban Phantasy Blog
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2008, 11:24:14 am » |
|
I decided that one of the first things this gun needed was a secondary hammer. I intend to mount this second hammer alongside the first, slightly offset, on the right hand side of the gun. I took a few hours to scrape various bits and pieces together, try out various combinations, experiment with ways to build the hammer, fail a few times, and finally come up with something which looks suitably like an old fashioned revolver hammer (I hope), with a good grungy aged feel to it and a little ornamentation in the Steampunk fashion. Now I just have to figure out how to mount it to the gun (I've tried several methods so far, and haven't managed to settle on anything), and exactly what it is going to do when it is pulled back.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Commander Obadiah
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2008, 11:37:08 am » |
|
That looks absolutely amazing Fortigurn, where did you get the brass pieces from?
Commander C. Obadiah
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
The Steampunk code: 'To delicately dismantle the system from within, if it's not too much trouble'
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2008, 12:00:06 pm » |
|
Thanks mate. I'm rather proud of it myself, since it took several hours and at least three failures. There are of course only three truly brass pieces in the entire hammer. Here's the breakdown: * Two brass side plates, ex-clock parts (no idea what they are), from a grab bag of clock parts purchased from Prof. Friedrich VonHart, PhD, which are proving to be a wealth of inspiration. * Small brass nail from B&Q, pushed through the axles of the two brass plates and pinning them to the center piece of the hammer (you can see the head of the nail (out of focus), on the far right here) * The main body of the hammer was made by lamination, cutting three pieces out of thin balsa wood and gluing them all together. These were then covered on each side and along the edge with aluminium tape to protect the balsa and help hold them together, as well as to give them a little more bulk * The two faces of the aluminium covered body and the two brass plates were brush painted with my favourite brass paint * The two brass plates were then glued to the main body, and both sides and the side edges of the hammer were painted with a lacquer to keep them fast (this lacquer has the happy effect of dulling the brass so it looks older, and going a slightly greenish hue in the places where it is applied thickly, giving the appearance of vedigris) * Next the top edge of the hammer was painted, first with a carbon black acrylic base coat, then with a top coat of iridescent stainless steel, and finally with a coat of lacquer to fix and age it I'm very happy with the way it turned out after all that work. It took at least four hours.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: February 09, 2008, 12:11:51 pm » |
|
Here's the hammer with the gun for scale. This is one of the many ways I've experimented with mounting it. This is one I keep returning to, partly because of the big chunk of brass it involves, but it isn't very elegant. Not in the sense of looking elegant, which doesn't matter with this weapon, but in the sense of being involved, fiddly, and not entirely practical.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
scarrmrcc
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2008, 05:57:41 pm » |
|
personally i don't see that gun wanting to be elegant... i like the idea of it being an in your face, pullemer of sorts. the overall lines of the gun do not seem to lend well, to polite.
you should go the route you are going, and go for brash...and abusive...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2008, 06:02:00 pm » |
|
personally i don't see that gun wanting to be elegant... i like the idea of it being an in your face, pullemer of sorts. the overall lines of the gun do not seem to lend well, to polite.
you should go the route you are going, and go for brash...and abusive... I agree with what you say about 'elegant'. See my previous post: Not in the sense of looking elegant, which doesn't matter with this weapon, but in the sense of being involved, fiddly, and not entirely practical. I chose this gun specifically because of its hard and ugly look, and I fully intend it to appear aggressive. 
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: February 09, 2008, 06:03:44 pm by Fortigurn »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
theMadTinker
|
 |
« Reply #15 on: February 09, 2008, 07:42:22 pm » |
|
With the hammer mounted like that, it asks for some steampunk junk bolted on top for it to interact with...and you know how I feel about bolting extra stuff on. Go for it!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Mr. Oliver
|
 |
« Reply #16 on: February 10, 2008, 12:29:31 am » |
|
The gun looks like a Maeteba Autorevolver; The ammo capacity of a revolver with the simplicity of an semiauto! Badassery is their game, but they do fail quite horribly.
On a related note, Fortigurn, if you could make a brief tutorial or atleast post the site you found the gun on, I, and Im sure others would be eternally grateful.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: February 10, 2008, 12:32:49 am by Mr. Oliver »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #17 on: February 10, 2008, 01:24:13 am » |
|
theMadTinker, I quite agree with you. This week I'm going to head back to the airsoft store where I bought it, and look around for spare gun parts to bolt on. Mr. Oliver, I'll be writing up a tutorial eventually. I didn't actually find the gun on any Website (that was actually part of the problem when I was trying to find out what it was), I found it at my local airsoft store. I tell the story here.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Theodore Atkins
Guest
|
 |
« Reply #18 on: February 10, 2008, 02:23:46 am » |
|
As far as extras to bolt on, how about a scope? Done eyeglass style. Similar to whats found here, http://blindkat.hegewisch.net/pirates/spyglass.jpgSomething completely over sized and over brassed (is that even possible?) and overly useless as well!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #19 on: February 10, 2008, 06:39:09 am » |
|
I have been looking into 'scopes recently. There are some lovely ones at my local airsoft store. Unfortunately the one I liked the best turned out to be almost twice the price of the gun, but the do have some others. The problem is finding something small enough to fit on the weapon. I still want to be able to lift it! I also need it to fit in a holster (as one of the guys at the store said, 'You can't just hang it around your neck').
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Theodore Atkins
Guest
|
 |
« Reply #20 on: February 10, 2008, 06:45:17 am » |
|
Well, if you make your holster right, you can make it so that the scope rests outside the holster thanks to a notch cut in it. Or you could mount it at the back end only. That way the scope will still rest outside the holster, but without the need for the notch. I could draw up a quick and dirty diagram if you want. And you just need a little spy glass... if you get one that telescopes out 6-7"!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Otto Von Pifka
|
 |
« Reply #21 on: February 10, 2008, 09:15:19 am » |
|
actually you could hang it around your neck. many cavalry pistols were on lanyards so a rider could use both hands without losing the pistol. if you added a release agent to the backstrap of the gun and set a plastic cap over the cartridge retaining knob, you could build a lump of epoxy putty to fit then pop it off to sand and shape better, then faux woodgrain paint it. add a lanyard screw. I drew it on the fake wood but a tapped hole in the frontstrap lump would be much stronger. double sided tape or a dab of silicone caulk could hold on the fake wood. same with a few extra upholstery tack heads for brutishness. a few extra gears around and under your extra hammer like its some sort of automatic cocking deal, or converts the gun to select fire. a dab of brass paint on the screws or replace some with actual brass screws. a dark stained wood look, and a sort of single action army shape, or a birds head shape to the fake wood would make it look older in design.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #22 on: February 10, 2008, 10:08:12 am » |
|
Mr Atkins, I do in fact have a large power drill holster in mind, which could accommodate a certain amount of machinery on top of the gun. However, I want something reasonably small and slender nonetheless, and I have been thinking of mounting a flashlight there for practical purposes.
Mr Von Pifka, thanks very much for your suggestions and diagram. Actually I don't want to hang this thing around my neck, one of the reasons being that it's beastly heavy and I don't want it bouncing around when I walk. But the lanyard idea is a good one, and I had been thinking about making a lanyard out of a USB cable so that I could provide some power to the gun's electrical components (when I finish working out exactly what they are going to be).
If I could find some epoxy putty around here, that would be great. Unfortunately it's a little tricky trying to find the good stuff like that, especially when you don't know how to say it in Chinese and no one knows what you're talking about in English. I have thought of drilling the odd mounting hole in the right side of the gun, and and gears are definitely on the agenda. I also need some thin wire (maybe guitar strings?), and some tension springs. I am going to be hunting around the place for bits and pieces this week, I think.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Otto Von Pifka
|
 |
« Reply #23 on: February 10, 2008, 02:53:33 pm » |
|
worse comes to worst, go to an auto parts store and get the gas tank patching putty.
it's a two part epoxy putty that you knead together to use. looks like fat sticks of chewing gum.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Fortigurn
|
 |
« Reply #24 on: February 10, 2008, 03:00:03 pm » |
|
Well I'll head to my local B&Q and see what I can find. Or failing that my not so local art supplies store. They might have something I can use. Of course I have no experience with any of this stuff. Can you provide any tips?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|