WD40 is great for unsticking seized components, but it isn't in fact a lubricant as such. It works, for a while, but over time it seems to evaporate and you're back to a dry, squeaking joint again.
There is a huge range of commercial lubricants, many specially formulated for specific applications, from relatively thin oils such as "3-in-1", sewing machine and gun oil, to heavy thick greases used for high pressure bearings, heavy duty gears and large lathe centres. But for general shop and home lubricating, automotive crankcase oil is generally good - though it tends to have additives that help it retain its oiliness in the typically high temperature environments of internal combustion engines.
For general purpose household lubrication, ordinary cooking oil is not to be scorned. Most cooking oils seem to be based on canola oil, which is "rapeseed oil" by another name, and was specified for a great many industrial applications in the 19th and early 20th centuries; from steam locomotives to marine engines and machine tools. It's also cheaper than automotive oils.
Then there's tallow, which you can make yourself in the good old DIY tradition, by rendering down bacon fat, beef fat and similar offcuts. Boil it in water for an hour or two at low heat (simmering), then let it cool down and skim the solid tallow off the top. If kept in a sealed can it doesn't go bad - in my shop I have a can of tallow I made at least 25 years ago, and it doesn't smell at all; I use it for all kinds of rough jobs such as lathe centres, sliding machine ways, and hardwood bearings I sometimes have to use for one-off jobs. I understand tallow also used to be the preferred lubricant for ship launching ways, which, again, were generally constructed from hardwoods such as oak, beech or elm. Or tropical hardwoods if you're building a boat in Mexico or Guatemala.
If you keep Cyanoacrylate adhesives in the fridge they tend to last longer, it seems. I must say I've never had a problem with shear strength using cyanoacrylates; cyano' also comes in several viscosities, from water-thin - which, I find, pulls itself into virtually any well made joint by capillary action and also soaks into paper and card, creating a very tough composite material that has some of the qualities of fibreglass and can be sawn, filed and drilled, - to a thick goo which is a gap-filler in itself but as J. Wilhelm says, can be combined with baking soda or even fine sawdust to enhance its gap-filling abilities.
Cyanoacrylates don't like excessive heat; the heat from a small propane torch, or even a match, will break it down and destroy the joint. And toluene, or even nail polish remover, will unstick your fingers . . . .
