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Author Topic: Alternative material for cosplay armour.  (Read 3499 times)
J. Wilhelm
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« Reply #25 on: September 11, 2019, 12:32:19 am »

#Snip# Unless you're boiling in a large cauldron and handling it with tongs, it will be difficult to control the internal flow of heat in a pipe of pvc, let alone trying to straighten it into a bowl or a plate shape. #Snip#
And this is exactly my idea. Basically submerge a peice of PVC tube into boiling water to soften the material.
The tube I have in mind, have thin walls, so the internel flow of heat would be quick and evenly.
The biggest part would be the chest, back and legs. But I want to design it so I have parts that are shorter than 50cm.

About the design, I have made a Pintrest page for refrence and inspiration. I'm not sure if I'm going for a certain period armor or a fantasy design.
There are so many designs from different era's and countries. Also the purpose of an armor have different designs.
I have a bit of a tummy, so a slim fitting chest plate will not do.  Wink
https://nl.pinterest.com/steven6773/knight-armour/

Don't matter, you can have a bit of tummy and give yourself a 6-pack with armour!  Grin

I saw the Pinterest page. So you're going for a late Medieval / Renaissance Era armour?
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Justin Time
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« Reply #26 on: September 12, 2019, 04:54:39 am »

Have you looked at PVC board? https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_sheets_rolls/foamed_pvc_sheets/342

It is a foamed PVC in sheet form (looks like foam core but much harder).

In my experience it can be glued with PVC glue or cyanoacrylate, shaped by dipping in hot water, drilled, sanded and painted.

I've made many things in the past with the brand name "Sintra" in 1/8" (3mm) sheets.

It is generally used in sign-making and sometimes you can get scraps from sign shops for cheap or free.

JIT
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bicyclebuilder
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« Reply #27 on: September 17, 2019, 09:03:56 am »

Thank you for your replies.
@Justin Time: I will look at that option.

@J. Wilhelm: I am indeed going for a Medieval/Renaissance type of armour.
The idea is to make a standard/plain full armour and make interchangeable parts for a more fancy, fantasy or scary armour.
For instance, a pauldron with spikey parts and a gauntlet with claw-like fingers to make it more scary.
Or a cape and tabard for a more dressed up, fantasy look.
I want to be able to dress for the occasion. Not just for the theme of an event, but also for the weather conditions.

Right now, I am rather buisy with work, travelling and selling/buying another house.
When all is settled down, I will have time to experiment with materials.
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Kensington Locke
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« Reply #28 on: September 18, 2019, 10:17:49 pm »

I recommend you visit the Replica Prop Forum (therpf.com). It's a busy site with prop and costume makers of every sort who specialize in and experiment with the materials you're asking about.
I have logged in to the Replica Prop Forum, trying to learn more about armor making.

@Kensington Locke and Anselmofanzero; These are little pallets of thermoplastics? Do they also come in sheets or tubes?

Sorry for the late reply, some other folks said the name: Worbla

it's a sheet material.  cosplayers making armor (like Halo) recommend the heck out of it

as compared to other materials (like yoga mats or those foam interlocking floor mats) which don't hold paint well.

So i advise checking out google and youtube Worbla and see if that'll suit you.

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bicyclebuilder
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« Reply #29 on: October 06, 2019, 03:27:10 pm »

Time for an update:
I have purchased a 100mm diameter PVC pipe and some aluminium tape.
Boiling water as a melting medium for PVC pipe works perfectly!
Within half a minute in boiling water, the pipe is plyable without loosing to much if it's structure. Not melting at all.

So far, I have made a template of my arm, using a thick sweater covered with plastic foil, covered with ductape.
The ducktape is my template for both my arms.

I have transfered the template to the 100mm PVC pipe, bumping in to my first heardle.
The diameter of the pipe is limiting my design of the pieces.

The aluminium tape looks awesome, but has a downside.
When overlapped, the thickness of the aluminium shows through the shining surface.
From a distance, it looks good, but up close you can see the overlap.

I had do dull down the aluminium because it was unrealisticly shiny.
On a test piece, I have dulled down aluminium with a stick-on silver ornament.
The picture also shows the overlapped aluminium tape.

 

If I find some time to continue the build, I am going to figure out how to connect the parts to each other and to my body.
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RJBowman
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« Reply #30 on: October 06, 2019, 05:27:06 pm »

The overlap marks could be used to advantage; you could create the look of thin layers or decoration.
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J. Wilhelm
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« Reply #31 on: October 06, 2019, 10:18:34 pm »

PVC pipe comes in much larger diameters, but what you can get depends on the building standards of you country. From your pictures it looks like it's gray electrical conduit PVC pipe. Drain /sewer PVC pipes are the largest diameters you will find at retail hardware supermarkets outside of building contractor suppliers.
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bicyclebuilder
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« Reply #32 on: October 15, 2019, 11:05:14 am »

The pipe I used is originally for downspout. The outside vertical part on the side of houses.
It has a thinner wall than the regular PVC drainage for sewer system.
The 100mm diameter means the circumference is about 310mm.
A decent size that is small enough to work with comfortably.
All I have to do is design according to the limit of 310mm.
For the PVC pipe material I am happy with the results.

For the metal surface, I'm not satisfied.
Aluminum tape works, but has the annoying overlap and tape edges.
Also, the tape needs a flat or at least unstretched surface otherwise it starts to wrinkle.
An alternative is to use small pieces of tape, deliberately overlapping as a patchwork pattern.
I've got one more option and that is aluminum foil, gluing on the PVC.
I'm going to try that next, on a test piece before I continue.

If this does not work, I am going to look at metallic (spray) paint.
My main concern is the durability.
The armour parts are going to rub against eachother, possibly shaving the surface.
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