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Author Topic: Those Pitti Uomo dudes are at it again.  (Read 10080 times)
Argus Fairbrass
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« on: June 25, 2014, 05:24:02 pm »

For those of you that don't know (because I didn't until quite recently) Pitti Uomo is a bi annual gathering in Italy of fashionistas from around the globe. I've been seeing various pictures of attendees turning up in publications such as Gentleman's Gazette obviously, but sometimes even in Chap or Steampunk related searches for a few years now.

This is largely because, in some cases their style influences currently, are rather reminiscent of the more vintage decades we also sometimes draw from. Although it's done with a more modern sensibility, as cutting edge fashion likes to feel it's pushing things forward as opposed to purely re enacting the past (at least that's what I gather). Still at present this seems to translate as a kind of bizarre vintage, almost sub hipster crossover although no doubt it's been a strong influence on those styles.

Beards are obviously still in despite claims the look has peaked. And the 1900's/20's/30's type gents undercut is it seems as popular as ever. There are some quite dapper suits and hats on display too. Although I think my biggest problem with it all (apart from the alarming lack of socks), is these guys still seem to be going for a fit that often looks about half a size too small to me. Still what do you think? anyone tempted to Pitti Uomo it up a bit?  Cheesy

http://four-pins.com/tag/pitti-uomo/



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Arabella Periscope
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« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2014, 10:06:13 am »





I, for one, like this a lot.  It is like rainfall, refreshing to the eye after a long drought of dreary monochrome sports jackets, non-iron trousers, and depressed shirts that look all washed together, bachelor-style, coming out that universal grayish drab color that people think of as neutral but that does, in fact, show.  It doesn't go with everything, or all go together, it is like the mud color that paint makes when you mix it all into a featureless noncommittal blur. (Sorry.  *Mops brow with tasteful tissue linen handkerchief.*  I don't know why aesthetic matters get me steamed.  But they are a  great source of pleasure, too, as are these Italian gentlemen, like gelato.)
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Argus Fairbrass
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« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2014, 12:10:35 am »

It most definitely has an element of new dandy about it. It's been said for a while now that a more vintage influence is coming back in a big way. This has been attributed to all sorts of things. TV shows such as Boardwalk Empire, Downton Abbey and now Peaky Blinders etc have infiltrated the Zeitgeist as it were. I also have a theory myself, that periods such as the Interbellum and depression era, are possibly being strongly related to on a psychological level by some folks, simply because of the strange times we find ourselves in at present.

As I say in terms of high fashion, they will always try and put a modern spin on things. That's an important part of the statement for them. I think this is perhaps why the inference that Prada were drawing influence from Steampunk with that mens collection, caused such an uproar in certain quarters. I guess it's perceived Steampunk is perhaps too retro and more re enact-y than I'd personally consider it to be. I couldn't offer a better illustration of that attitude than an article I found on the Cutter and Tailor forum. A tad dismissive of folks sentimentality for certain styles to say the least.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2340


But y'know, the desire to make things current and relevant is understandable. Personally some of the combinations of things they come up with really don't work for me, but I appreciate that they are constantly experimenting in a desire to move things forward. I think I do fall into the category of being more of a traditionalist (which I'm perfectly comfortable with), and certainly have no burning ambitions to be on the cutting edge of fashion lol.

On a side note, I actually found this really interesting, far more so than I was expecting to. I'd never really considered the copyright issues surrounding fashion and costume design, but this is engaging and sums it all up quite nicely.

Johanna Blakely: Lessons from fashion's free culture


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Hurricane Annie
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« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2014, 01:02:23 am »

some of the brighter  primary colour suits   remind one of  that dreadful 80s Dick Tracy remake with  the dreadful Warren Beatty

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Hurricane Annie
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« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2014, 01:05:20 am »


These  retrospective tweeds and textures  are a pleasant  fashion feature for 2014







 just because




« Last Edit: June 29, 2014, 01:15:50 am by Hurricane Annie » Logged
Arabella Periscope
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« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2014, 01:35:11 am »

Oh, that Frock Coat article was the best laugh I have enjoyed in a long time.  Nosferatu!  And the coats are not so badly cut as the gentlemen wearing them.  The long coat is flattering if single-breasted and well-tailored, but then tailoring is an art that can no longer be afforded by many people.  I think fashions begin with elegant models displaying superbly designed and made garments which inspire cheap, shoddy mass production and mass purchasing, with the result that the style is then seen everywhere at its very worst and so goes out of fashion, whereupon the next wave of excellence appears at the apex to dazzle us.

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Hurricane Annie
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« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2014, 01:40:53 am »





 The older gents are definitely cutting a fine figure




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Hurricane Annie
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« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2014, 01:47:18 am »

Oh, that Frock Coat article was the best laugh I have enjoyed in a long time.  Nosferatu!  And the coats are not so badly cut as the gentlemen wearing them.  The long coat is flattering if single-breasted and well-tailored, but then tailoring is an art that can no longer be afforded by many people.  I think fashions begin with elegant models displaying superbly designed and made garments which inspire cheap, shoddy mass production and mass purchasing, with the result that the style is then seen everywhere at its very worst and so goes out of fashion, whereupon the next wave of excellence appears at the apex to dazzle us.




 a  non SP younger  male relative  has taken to  a retro "psuede" version of that jacket.   As you say  a  "cheap, shoddy mass production and mass purchasing," version from  a decade or 2  ago. But a 6'2' and flowing locks  he carries it off quite well .....
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Argus Fairbrass
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« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2014, 02:34:58 am »

I also suspect, particularly with some of the more brightly coloured linens seen at Pitti this summer, we'd have to credit the Congo's Sapeurs as perhaps having an influence as well.

Spoiler (click to show/hide)
« Last Edit: June 29, 2014, 02:43:08 am by Argus Fairbrass » Logged
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« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2014, 10:08:43 am »

Dangerously approaching the Zoot Suit

http://electricka.com/etaf/muses/music/gone_but_not_forgotten/big_band_era/multimedia/zoot-suit-yellow.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suit
« Last Edit: June 29, 2014, 10:13:40 am by J. Wilhelm » Logged

Arabella Periscope
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« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2014, 10:02:52 am »

Horrors!  In a moment someone will produce some co-respondent shoes and some patent-leather hair!
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Argus Fairbrass
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So English even the English don't get it!


« Reply #11 on: July 01, 2014, 08:30:36 pm »

Well at least one person doesn't approve haha!

http://www.styleite.com/features/opinion/men-please-stop-dressing-like-a-dandy/
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Arabella Periscope
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« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2014, 07:47:29 am »

Well, the picture the author of that nasty little piece posted makes a good case, I think, for the boater and the rest and of it.  Those two gentlemen look absolutely great to me, and they seem to have found a way to put Steampunk into everyday life and hot summer weather.  They are welcome to sing me a tune in harmony and sell me an ice cream any time.
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Argus Fairbrass
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So English even the English don't get it!


« Reply #13 on: July 02, 2014, 11:42:17 am »

The comment section for that article is a scream! She's certainly put a few noses out of joint. On the one hand I'd be lying if I said I didn't see her point, in that yes to be honest, certain styles of vintage dress will now inevitably have a kind of costume vibe about them. My reply would be quite simply so what? Is fashion ever something to be taken seriously? I mean I realise a lot of people do, but in all honesty I find those people as ridiculous and amusing as they no doubt find me.

I will point out though, even in such stylistically rigid times as the Victorian era, there were periods where fashion trends for men veered away from vanity and dandyism, even amongst those that could afford it. Hair was worn uncombed, waistcoats unbuttoned etc, so as to give an air of someone not overly concerned about their appearance, as for a time this came to be viewed as frivolous, mundane and perhaps a little unmanly.

The irony being of course, the only men who ever cared about that, were the ones who followed fashion.  Cheesy
« Last Edit: July 02, 2014, 11:45:12 am by Argus Fairbrass » Logged
MarcusJuliusCroft
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« Reply #14 on: July 03, 2014, 10:40:54 am »

Some of those men are top notch, Bravo I say to them.
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« Reply #15 on: July 03, 2014, 11:39:09 am »

I'm a tad neutral on this article.  While I like the anachronisms of Pitti I'm not so hot on the idea of wearing intentionally tight/short pants and pastel colours together.  You don't have to try that hard to call attention to yourself, and as I've written on another thread, you do have to pay attention to your body shape to pick the clothing that you are going to wear.  Often in those pictures (mostly for the younger men), I see clothing that looks like it was picked on purpose to fit improperly - like you had to rush our of the house due to an emergency and you ended up wearing your little brother's clothes -but you managed to keep yourself colour coordinated and anachronistic.  Cheesy
« Last Edit: July 03, 2014, 11:51:55 am by J. Wilhelm » Logged
MarcusJuliusCroft
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« Reply #16 on: July 03, 2014, 11:41:53 am »

I'm a tad neutral on this article.  While I like the anachronisms of Pitti I'm not so hot on the idea of wearing intentionally tight/short pants and pastel colours together.  You don't have to try that hard to call attention to yourself, and as I've written on another thread, you do have to pay attention to your body shape to pick the clothing that you are going to wear.  Often in those pictures (mostly for the younger men), I see clothing that looks like it was picked on purpose to fit improperly - like you had to rush our of the house due to an emergency and you ended up wearing your little brother's clothes -but you managed to keep yourself colour coordinated and anachronistic.  Cheesy
They're are Italians, don't question them, they know how to dress well Wink
(ps, I know they're not all Italians, but hey, it is an Italian festival, and I can say Italians if I want)
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« Reply #17 on: July 03, 2014, 11:52:16 am »

I'm a tad neutral on this article.  While I like the anachronisms of Pitti I'm not so hot on the idea of wearing intentionally tight/short pants and pastel colours together.  You don't have to try that hard to call attention to yourself, and as I've written on another thread, you do have to pay attention to your body shape to pick the clothing that you are going to wear.  Often in those pictures (mostly for the younger men), I see clothing that looks like it was picked on purpose to fit improperly - like you had to rush our of the house due to an emergency and you ended up wearing your little brother's clothes -but you managed to keep yourself colour coordinated and anachronistic.  Cheesy
They're are Italians, don't question them, they know how to dress well Wink
(ps, I know they're not all Italians, but hey, it is an Italian festival, and I can say Italians if I want)

I suspect Pitti Uomo will percolate and be re-invented in non-Latin countries.  A great deal of the exuberance I see is culturally biased.
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Argus Fairbrass
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« Reply #18 on: July 03, 2014, 01:00:32 pm »

This venerable chap is Nickelson (Nick) Wooster.



He's a fashion director/journalist, style icon and certainly a Pitti Uomo ace face. If you want to talk about carefully chosen random outfits, a quick Googlefu of his name will I'm sure aptly demonstrate, that at times he truly takes that idea to a whole nother level.
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« Reply #19 on: July 03, 2014, 03:54:21 pm »

Alright then; this chap has layered correctly using a level of brightness from the outside to increasing the inside and finally the shirt being the brightest.  Not ill fitting vest.  Everything looks like it fits. That looks much better.

You could reverse the colours or shades, but by monotonically decreasing or increasing brightness every article of clothing becomes visible without becoming clownish.

My only objection with other pictures is that if the chap looks uncomfortable wearing something, it probably is, and definitely will make the viewer uncomfortable too (a type of fashion empathy - what?  You guys never thought about that?  Go out on a pair of tight shorts and gauge the public's reaction  Grin )
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MarcusJuliusCroft
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« Reply #20 on: July 03, 2014, 04:06:17 pm »


My only objection with other pictures is that if the chap looks uncomfortable wearing something, it probably is, and definitely will make the viewer uncomfortable too (a type of fashion empathy - what?  You guys never thought about that?  Go out on a pair of tight shorts and gauge the public's reaction  Grin )

I believe that as a matter of principle, that we do not go out in public with tight shorts.  I believe that the laws of morality and ethics disallow us from ever doing that with a clean conscience.  You should be ashamed.
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« Reply #21 on: July 03, 2014, 06:37:54 pm »


My only objection with other pictures is that if the chap looks uncomfortable wearing something, it probably is, and definitely will make the viewer uncomfortable too (a type of fashion empathy - what?  You guys never thought about that?  Go out on a pair of tight shorts and gauge the public's reaction  Grin )

I believe that as a matter of principle, that we do not go out in public with tight shorts.  I believe that the laws of morality and ethics disallow us from ever doing that with a clean conscience.  You should be ashamed.

Don't worry mate, I'd never do that.
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Argus Fairbrass
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So English even the English don't get it!


« Reply #22 on: July 03, 2014, 07:58:42 pm »


My only objection with other pictures is that if the chap looks uncomfortable wearing something, it probably is, and definitely will make the viewer uncomfortable too (a type of fashion empathy - what?  You guys never thought about that?  Go out on a pair of tight shorts and gauge the public's reaction  Grin )


I believe that as a matter of principle, that we do not go out in public with tight shorts.  I believe that the laws of morality and ethics disallow us from ever doing that with a clean conscience.  You should be ashamed.


Whereas Mr Wooster has no problems with it at all, hence my point.



That certainly strays far outside of anything I'd consider wearing as well. Then again unlike him I'll never be the fashion director for JCPenny men's wear or a style darling of GQ magazine either. Evidently you can go a long way dressing silly in the fashion biz, but I guess we all probably knew that.

But as I say, what interests me about men's fashion currently, is the way they are mixing traditional styles and even bringing back some long forgotten fabrics.



A Casentino wool overcoat (although I must confess, that stuff just makes me want to break out the Remington Fuzz Away).

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Argus Fairbrass
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« Reply #23 on: July 03, 2014, 09:02:48 pm »

Excuse the double post, but coincidently this just came up in my Facebook feed. One of the latest images from the Chap Olympics apparently, oh my!

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MarcusJuliusCroft
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« Reply #24 on: July 03, 2014, 09:31:51 pm »

Those men in the background should be rounded up and removed from the picture, especially the one with the bow tie.
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