General Sewing Advice Thread

[frances]

I've known people use curtain rails to hold out their crinoline skirts - the slightly bendy plastic ones with some success.  People who use wedding-dress boning tend to get a problem with it bending alarmingly as they wear it.  The only no-problem material I have found that works properly is crinoline boning, which is watchspring metal covered by woven cotton casing, and rather expensive.

[Ms Pipistrelle]

I'm working on a "Beatrix" Shirtwaist pattern but I'm not too happy with how its working out - not that its quite finished yet.   The main problem is I think its ended up too plain for Edwardian.

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I have enough left-over fabric to re-do the sleeves - maybe using the puffed short sleeve from the same pattern.

So opinions please - do you think it'll look the part with a puffier sleeve and a nice big brooch?  Or should I postpone worrying until I've done the waist and tried it on properly with skirt as well as corset?
I'm worried about letting the side down at the Edwardian event I'm going to.

one bit I am pleased with - the top of the sleeves have actually ended up in about the right place for once so that's one successful pattern alteration under my belt 

[frances]

Hmm, yes, I see what you mean. 

However I would advise you not to start making any alterations until you have done the rest of the outfit.  Depending upon the jacket, you may not need to alter the blouse.  Also if you are wearing a corset (underneath?) you may want to add a few darts to make the blouse more fitted, and make other subtle changes such as under the armpits.

Do the rest of the sewing and then work on making everything match up properly.

[Lady_Eliza]

I'm working on a "Beatrix" Shirtwaist pattern but I'm not too happy with how its working out - not that its quite finished yet.   The main problem is I think its ended up too plain for Edwardian.

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I have enough left-over fabric to re-do the sleeves - maybe using the puffed short sleeve from the same pattern.

So opinions please - do you think it'll look the part with a puffier sleeve and a nice big brooch?  Or should I postpone worrying until I've done the waist and tried it on properly with skirt as well as corset?
I'm worried about letting the side down at the Edwardian event I'm going to.

one bit I am pleased with - the top of the sleeves have actually ended up in about the right place for once so that's one successful pattern alteration under my belt 

Frances has so good advice. You never know if adding pouf to the sleeves would go well with the entire thing, you might find that the simplicity of the blouse compliments everything else quite well. Another thing to consider, you could make some ruffles and add them vertically across the front. That would be a lot less work, and a simple thing to un-do if need be.

[Crescat Scientia]

I am hoping that you folks can help me.  A friend has asked me for advice on which sewing machine to buy for an anniversary gift for his wife. (also a friend ) She just needs to do basic sewing, nothing fancy. I have been sewing with my 1970's Kenmore since it was new, and recently bought a 1980's Viking for my heavy duty garb sewing. Anyway, I have no idea what is out there to buy new, except some really expensive specialty machines. (quilting, embroidery, etc...) Can anyone give me recommendations for a mid-price machine, available in the U.S.? (California) I don't want to point him in the direction of a cheap piece of junk, just a decent basic machine.
Thanks!

I have a Kenmore sewing machine bought within the last five years, almost their cheapest machine.  It is purely mechanical (no computerized parts) and can do straight stitch and zigzag.  It has been a great basic machine.  I had some terribly frustrating experiences with a computerized machine before, and have found this one serves all my basic needs.

[Crescat Scientia]

Other than beware of fluff, I don't think there is a huge amount of extra advice needed for cotton velvet - it is silk velvet that is the slippery bastard. My general experience of cotton velvet is that it works fairly nicely.

I have never been able to find real silk velvet.  All of the modern shiny velvet seems to be rayon, or rayon on a silk backing at best.

But yes, whatever it is, it's slippery and nasty to cut and nasty to sew.  The best way I've found is to very, very carefully lay the fabric out straight, face-down, then pin down the pattern pieces, trace them exactly, and cut with great care.  It always has to be hand-basted before sewing.

Cotton velvet creeps around too, but nothing like silk ... or rayon, or whatever.

[frances]

Hi anyone who is trying velvet out for the first time,

The above advice from Crescat Scientia plus: you need to do something to stop the velvet wandering around, so I would advise some backing.  You can get all sorts of speciality, non-woven stuff in shops that sell embroidery machines.  I suggest the tear-off, maybe one that is slightly adhesive on one side, or get some special spray glue [not that I am a believer in spray glue].  This should help to keep the fabric pieces stiffer whilst you work.

If you are embroidering the velvet - as in a gents smoking cap - put the fabric in a small hoop whilst you work. Always take it out at the end of the day else the marks will be more difficult to get out.

What else? Oh yes, embroider the velvet before you cut it out.  Mark the lines of the sewing pattern with tailors chalk and before the marks disappear sew along the line in a contrasting colour thread.  Only take these tacking stitches out when you have sewn the whole item together.

Any questions feel free to ask.

[Neibelungen]

You should  never really  mount velvet directly  into a hoop, and  ideally  it's better done  on a slate frame (square  ones with rollers).
You firmly baste  the velvet up onto a thin but firm  canvas  or  linen/cotton backing  which  you then use to  stretch  into a slate frame  or ring.  The velvet  is then tensioned via the backing fabric and sits free over the wood frames that way and can be left in place.   The canvas can  be  trimmed back around the embroidery afterwards  if required.
If your embroidering  onto  velvet  it common to  to  work over thin padding, which stops your stitches sinking into the velvet.

Backing velvet for sewing isn't usually required,  but as  pointed out,  good hand basting all  seams before sewing is  vital.    Marks and crushes can be indirectly steamed  and brushed out ,  but unless you have a velvet board,  it's never directly  pressed.

I do  a lot  of work with a  company that specialises in monograming velvet for jackets and slippers hence learning how the  professionals  approach it.

[darkshines]

I have a pattern and when I unpacked it, I got scared and put it away again. I have never, EVER used a pattern before, but I think it would be a useful gift to have. Finding clothes to fit is almost impossible, this would save me a lot of hassle. Any ideas or help, people? Maybe someone who can tutor me, step by step?

[Unsubtle Pete]

Hi anyone who is trying velvet out for the first time,

The above advice from Crescat Scientia plus: you need to do something to stop the velvet wandering around, so I would advise some backing.  You can get all sorts of speciality, non-woven stuff in shops that sell embroidery machines.  I suggest the tear-off, maybe one that is slightly adhesive on one side, or get some special spray glue [not that I am a believer in spray glue].  This should help to keep the fabric pieces stiffer whilst you work.

If you are embroidering the velvet - as in a gents smoking cap - put the fabric in a small hoop whilst you work. Always take it out at the end of the day else the marks will be more difficult to get out.

What else? Oh yes, embroider the velvet before you cut it out.  Mark the lines of the sewing pattern with tailors chalk and before the marks disappear sew along the line in a contrasting colour thread.  Only take these tacking stitches out when you have sewn the whole item together.

Any questions feel free to ask.

Certainly thoroughness is a good approach, but the biggest problem I've had with silk velvet is cutting the stuff in the first place. It has a way of appearing to lie flat, while still being distorted, that makes an accurate cut very difficult. I'm not sure there is a solution to this particular problem, but if there is, please share 

[frances]

Hi Pete,

Have you tried

Neibelungen's suggestion:  "firmly baste the velvet up onto a thin but firm  canvas  or  linen/cotton backing"

or my one:  "speciality, non-woven stuff in shops that sell embroidery machines.  I suggest the tear-off, maybe one that is slightly adhesive on one side, or get some special spray glue [not that I am a believer in spray glue].  This should help to keep the fabric pieces stiffer whilst you work."

also

You know that plasticy/rubbery sheet they sell in kitchen shops (I believe that Lakeland has it) to stop bowls sliding around on the counter when you tip them on the side to beat the ingredients.  It is textured and slightly sticky; I've seen it in cream and in dark green.  You could try putting the velvet over that to stop it sliding around as you cut. 

Good Luck

[Unsubtle Pete]

Hi Pete,

Have you tried

Neibelungen's suggestion:  "firmly baste the velvet up onto a thin but firm  canvas  or  linen/cotton backing"

or my one:  "speciality, non-woven stuff in shops that sell embroidery machines.  I suggest the tear-off, maybe one that is slightly adhesive on one side, or get some special spray glue [not that I am a believer in spray glue].  This should help to keep the fabric pieces stiffer whilst you work."

also

You know that plasticy/rubbery sheet they sell in kitchen shops (I believe that Lakeland has it) to stop bowls sliding around on the counter when you tip them on the side to beat the ingredients.  It is textured and slightly sticky; I've seen it in cream and in dark green.  You could try putting the velvet over that to stop it sliding around as you cut. 

Good Luck

I see, baste to flat-lining before cut. That makes a lot more sense now 

[Crescat Scientia]

Certainly thoroughness is a good approach, but the biggest problem I've had with silk velvet is cutting the stuff in the first place. It has a way of appearing to lie flat, while still being distorted, that makes an accurate cut very difficult. I'm not sure there is a solution to this particular problem, but if there is, please share 

Here's how I do it.  This first is the quick method, believe it or not.

1.  Lay the velvet face down on a clean work surface.  Adjust the velvet with your hands until the grain is completely straight and at right angles.

2.  Lay the pattern piece straight down on the velvet.

3.  Put pattern weights on the pattern.  If you don't have pattern weights, use anything heavy and relatively flat.  The little lead weights they sell to make coats and capes hang better will do.  Or washers.  You can even use books, if the pattern piece is big enough.  Just make sure there are enough of them to firmly hold down the pattern.

4. You may pin the pattern in a few places to hold it still, but it's optional.

5.  With tailor's chalk, trace exactly around the pattern.  If you are using a normal modern-style pattern that will be the cutting line.  If you are using a pattern without seam allowances (common with Victorian patterns and more useful than it sounds), that will be the sewing line.  Mark any edge notches or other pattern markings with the chalk.

6.  Remove the weights and pattern piece and check to see that the grain of the fabric has not been disturbed.

7.  If it has been disturbed or distorted, rub away the chalk and start again.  If it is still straight-grained, remove the velvet from the terrycloth and cut it out carefully.  Ignore what you think the fabric may be doing while you cut and stick to that line.  If you had a pattern with seam allowances in step 5, cut exactly on the line.  If you had one without, cut at least three centimeters outside the line.  This leaves a lot of extra room in the seam allowance for the velvet shifting.

8.  Handle carefully to protect the pile and to avoid rubbing away the chalk lines before you sew.

9.  For less worry about losing pattern markings, take a single strand of cotton sewing thread of a contrasting color and put a stitch or two at every edge notch or other marked place on the pattern.  If your chalk line is the sewing line not the cutting line, as in a Victorian pattern, you can bast along the line as well.

***

Now here's the slower, but more sure method. 

In this you will be flatlining every piece of velvet.  Flatlining is backing a piece of fabric with another for strength and support.  The two fabrics are treated as one and sewn at the same time.  Fabrics for flatlining  can be as simple as cotton sheeting or shirting, although depending on what you're making you could use silk organza or even taffeta.  Even a very thin flatlining fabric makes a big difference in handling.  If your velvet garment is meant to be sturdy and substantial, like a corset, cotton canvas works best.  For simple, soft velvet garments, cotton shirting or sheeting (plain weave, closely woven, lightweight cotton) works well.

1.  This step stabilizes the grain of the fabric.  Baste together the flatlining fabric to the back of the velvet along the grain widthwise, every 10 cm if the velvet is very slippery, every 15 or 20 cm if it is less so.  You're basically basting along a single thread in each fabric.  Check as you go to make sure that both fabrics are still straight.  When you have done that, baste the fabrics together lengthwise down the center and at 10 (or 15 or 20) cm intervals out to the selvedges.  Check to ensure that both fabrics lie flat.

2.  Lay out your pattern pieces as above on the back of your flatlined velvet, which will be the backing fabric now.  Weight down the patterns and trace with tailors' chalk.  Then remove the weights and patterns.

3.  Before cutting out the pieces, baste the sewing lines (In a modern pattern the sewing lines will be a certain distance inside the cutting line; the pattern will tell you how far.  In a Victorian pattern the pattern edge is the sewing line, so just follow the chalk.).  Be sure to catch both the interlining and the velvet with the basting thread.

4.  Now cut out the pieces.  Note that since you have basted the sewing lines already, you know where they are and can cut a bigger seam allowance if you like without fear of losing the precision of the pattern.  You can remove the original squared basting now if you like.

5.  To further stabilize the flatlining, take each cut out piece individually and stitch on a machine with a basting stitch a few millimeters outside the sewing line (in the seam allowance), firmly binding the two layers together.

6.  Now sew the pieces as normal.  The flatlining will make the fabric handle better, and the stitches will be hidden in the seam allowance.

[Lady_Eliza]

I have a pattern and when I unpacked it, I got scared and put it away again. I have never, EVER used a pattern before, but I think it would be a useful gift to have. Finding clothes to fit is almost impossible, this would save me a lot of hassle. Any ideas or help, people? Maybe someone who can tutor me, step by step?

This is my entire point behind learning to sew well First of all, don't be scared of the pattern. The pattern is your friend, and tape is an amazing tool When you first take it out of the package the best thing I have found is to cut the pieces out at their biggest size, and with an iron on a VERY low setting press them flat. They are much easier to work with when you aren't fighting the factory fold. Same with your fabric, using the proper setting for the fabric, press it out flat.
When you get to that point you lay out the pattern pieces and pin them to the fabric. The easiest way I have found is to use a clean tile floor or a big kitchen like table. The pins go through a lot better when you have something hard behind them. Then you cut them out, and just basically follow the directions from there. Matching up the pieces and pinning and sewing. Once you get to that point and you need help just let me know, I'm happy to help any way I can

[Unsubtle Pete]

thanks for the velvet tips, everyone. I'm not exactly a novice with the material, but I have had a few problems with silk velvets before, although only when trying to use it for a coat, other more draped garments don't need quite as accurate a cut as a body coat, on the whole. As silk velvet is too soft and drapey to make a structured coat without something backing every panel, I think I'll be trying to baste-to-flatlining before cut method next time I make a coat or anything else especially structured in silk velvet.

Made plenty in cotton velvet without ever encountering the cutting problems over the years, as the bit the I've been struggling with is getting the grain totally even.

To throw another idea out there...not tried this, just wondering if it might work.

Cut garment in appropriate flatlining material.

Lay velvet face down with grain even and square in the manner described by Crescat Scientia.

Place cut flatlining onto velvet, hold in place with weights.

Baste flatlining to velvet.

Cut velvet.

Opinions, people?

[Crescat Scientia]

thanks for the velvet tips, everyone. I'm not exactly a novice with the material, but I have had a few problems with silk velvets before, although only when trying to use it for a coat, other more draped garments don't need quite as accurate a cut as a body coat, on the whole. As silk velvet is too soft and drapey to make a structured coat without something backing every panel, I think I'll be trying to baste-to-flatlining before cut method next time I make a coat or anything else especially structured in silk velvet.

Made plenty in cotton velvet without ever encountering the cutting problems over the years, as the bit the I've been struggling with is getting the grain totally even.

To throw another idea out there...not tried this, just wondering if it might work.

Cut garment in appropriate flatlining material.

Lay velvet face down with grain even and square in the manner described by Crescat Scientia.

Place cut flatlining onto velvet, hold in place with weights.

Baste flatlining to velvet.

Cut velvet.

Opinions, people?

Yes.  That will work.  It's the medium-length option.

By the time I had typed all the above out I was too mentally tired to add it, but I should have.  My apologies.

[vampyresheep]

thanks for the velvet cutting tips!
I'm hoping I'm not going to have too much problems with the main fabric, which is a short pile cotton velvet.  However last night I tried cutting out some of my contrast panels (cuffs, collar etc), which turns out to be a way more slippery velvet - not ideal, using two different types of velvet but this piece was donated to me by a relative and was one less thing to add to the escalating cost of this outfit! 
Just a couple of simple shapes to cut, yet i had to pin, re-pin and re-pin again to try to get the pattern pieces to lie flat.  Then when I thought I'd finally succeeded, discovered the whole blooming thing had moved and was no longer going with the grain.  Grrr!  So frustrating, I dread to think what those pieces will be like to sew!

I will be flatlining the main bodice pieces anyway.  I like the sound of Unsubtle Pete's idea, to cut the flatlining pieces out first and baste them on to the velvet.  Think I might give that a try.

[frances]

Has anyone mentioned using a walking foot on the sewing machine?

[Neibelungen]

Most  of the  problem with  so  called 'silk  velvets' is  there are not...  It's a silk  backing with  rayon pile. and hence  it sits a bit  like flock..  on the pile tips.
The backing  is silk, but very  light weight and similar to  haboti lining, and hence the grain wanders off easily.  
It's more difficult  on a flat polished surface to  cut as  it's floating,  so  often a  broadcloth or loose wool  sheet  on your cutting surface helps ( like a minature velcro)

After you lay your velvet out flat, draw it back a few inches inline with the nap of the pile to align it all to  the cloth underlay as  it tends to  float off-pile otherwise.

Even  the geniune silk velvet (£300+ yard stuff) is a pain and takes a lot  of practice and patience, though  it's easier than  cotton  or rayon in my experience as  its  a softer pile and  'flats'  more easily because  of the stiffer backing silk fabric.

[vampyresheep]

Has anyone mentioned using a walking foot on the sewing machine?

I was recommended one of those on another forum.  I actually did a test run of it today - not as difficult as I thought it would be to attach to my machine and definately seems to do the trick.

[Uncle Arthur]

Has anyone mentioned using a walking foot on the sewing machine?

I was recommended one of those on another forum.  I actually did a test run of it today - not as difficult as I thought it would be to attach to my machine and definately seems to do the trick.

I have been searching for one to fit my sixties era Viking. I love the machine and a walking foot would make it perfect.

[frances]

How easy it is to forget the simplest of things. Yes, of course the lining (whatever style you decide upon) gets itself onto the back of velvet before cutting.  It seems so obvious now you mention it, Pete.   

I think that I would baste the layers close to the cutting line and then cut the two layers together.  This might be better in stopping the velvet wriggling around under the scissors.  If it is very slippery to cut, or an intricate line, I might even do two rows of basting close together along the pattern line and then cut out between these two lines. 

What a lot of useful tips.  I will find them useful myself.  Thanks all.

[Ms Pipistrelle]

I'm about to start making a ball outfit using Taffeta. The Taffeta I just found in my stash is 2-tone black/red and definitely a synthetic although since its been there for several years its one I bought before I started remembering to ask about such things while buying the fabric. 

The question is - Do I wash it before cutting?  I'm assuming it would be a cold wash.

[Stella Gaslight]

I would wash it if there is any chance it has sizing on it. Really all you need to do is hand wash and then let it dry.  I do that with most fabrics that are new and can be washed.

[frances]

If you are going to a ball you are likely to sweat into the fabric, and possibly someone might drop some liquid onto the fabric.  So if you have not pre-washed it .....

you will only get that one wear out of it.  Which would be sad.