Does anybody have any experience making tobacco pipes?

[Rev. Jade]

I recently purchased a Churchwarden-style pipe, but it has a vulcanite stem/mouthpiece 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Not incredibly fancy, but I like it.

I was wondering, does anybody have any experience making pipes?
I'm happy with the bowl, but I would love to make a wooden stem for the pipe.
I have basswood on hand; I know that pipes are generally not made of basswood because it burns fairly easily.
However, would basswood be sufficient for the stem?
If I do make it with basswood, I should be able to use a straightened out, heated wire hanger to burn a hole through the stem.
If, instead, I were to make the stem out of something like ash, would I be able to do this same thing, or would I need to find an incredibly long drill bit?
The pipe is 10.5" long at the moment, and I would like to make the stem at least as long as the current one, and with more of a bend to it.
I know that to bend the wood after I put a hole through it and shape the stem, I'll need to boil or steam it; does anybody have any pointers for doing that?
Thanks in advance for your help!

[Uncle Arthur]

When I am feeling well enough to hang out in the shop for several hours I make them. Seem well liked as I sell them quite quickly.

The wooden stemmed pipes I have done I used ash shoots for. They have a nice pithy interior that can be burned out with a hot wire very easily. I do recommend that you use a vulcanite or lucite mouth piece as the wooden stems will get soggy and nasty after a time. PM me if I can be of further assistance.

A few examples.

[Rev. Jade]

Those are very nice looking pipes!
Better looking than some you can get from pipe dealers online!

I just find the vulcanite stems to be so plain, though there do seem to be some interesting looking lucite stems!
I'll have to keep them in mind.
I hadn't thought of them getting soggy...is it just the part that is put in the mouth or is it the entire stem?
Is there any way the stem can be cured to prevent that?

[Uncle Arthur]

For wooden stems like the LOTR ones I have done I just use a very short lucite mouthpiece. If you stain carefully no one will even notice. I haven't come up with any way of keeping  wooden stems from getting funky at the mouthpiece.  Pipemakers Emporium is a superior source for any and all pipe related supplies Carolyn is a real sweetie.

[Captain Braid]

Speaking off the top of my head I'd say that you were safer using the Bakerlite/Vulcanite as some woods leak toxins.
(Made that mistake when turning Laburnum without a breathing mask, thought I was having an Asthma attack).

[Uncle Arthur]

Walnut will also screw you up if you neglect the mask. Turning isn't all that bad but the sanding can leave you hurting!

[Captain Braid]

Yes It was an experience I'm not longing to repeat.

[Rev. Jade]

For wooden stems like the LOTR ones I have done I just use a very short lucite mouthpiece. If you stain carefully no one will even notice. I haven't come up with any way of keeping  wooden stems from getting funky at the mouthpiece.  Pipemakers Emporium is a superior source for any and all pipe related supplies Carolyn is a real sweetie.

I like the idea of using a very short stem for the mouthpiece and the rest of the stem being made from wood.
Do you glue the mouthpiece in or just make the whole in the stem the perfect size so the mouthpiece stays in place?
How would you stain the lucite though?
Couldn't stain be toxic?

Speaking off the top of my head I'd say that you were safer using the Bakerlite/Vulcanite as some woods leak toxins.
(Made that mistake when turning Laburnum without a breathing mask, thought I was having an Asthma attack).

Walnut will also screw you up if you neglect the mask. Turning isn't all that bad but the sanding can leave you hurting!

I would definitely check out the toxicity of the wood first!
As I have basswood on hand, I looked into it and it seems that the sawdust can be toxic.
I don't have a lathe so I'll have to do all the shaping by hand.

[Uncle Arthur]

I prefer to use epoxy to attach the mouthpiece. A removable one in most common woods in an invitation to splitting. Stain the stem to match the lucite. Not the other way around. For pipes I use  spirit based leather dye for staining. Oil based stains take forever to gas off and frankly, stink. The stem I make removable from the bowl portion for ease in cleaning.

[Rev. Jade]

I prefer to use epoxy to attach the mouthpiece. A removable one in most common woods in an invitation to splitting. Stain the stem to match the lucite. Not the other way around. For pipes I use  spirit based leather dye for staining. Oil based stains take forever to gas off and frankly, stink. The stem I make removable from the bowl portion for ease in cleaning.

I was thinking epoxy, as that is what I almost always use when I want to things to stay together (other than duct tape, which has no place on a pipe!), I just wasn't sure if it would present any potential harm.
I suppose that as long is one was careful not to get the epoxy in the airhole, it should not be a problem.
And it makes much more sense to stain the wood rather than the lucite!
I feel like rather an idiot for not picking up on that the first time around...I would not have thought to use leather dye as a stain, but I will have to keep that in mind!
I was planning on making the stem removable, because I would hate to have to replace the whole pipe if the stem were to break.
Is there anything else I would need to do to the wood of the stem to seal it or anything (carnauba wax or the like), or is the stain sufficient?
I really appreciate all the help!
I'm learning quite a lot!

[Uncle Arthur]

Leather dye is what nearly all custom makers use for staining briar. Works a real treat. On a wooden stem I like a spit coat of shellac (cut extra thin with denatured alcohol) before I wax with carnauba.

There is an excellent pipemakers forum online where you can get a huge amount of information by just reading back posts. I will see if I can locate it for you when I get a chance.

[Rev. Jade]

Thanks again!
If you do find the forum or remember the name, I would love to check it out.
If not, don't worry about it; I think I've got basically what I needed to know!

I was going to make myself a drawstring-closure tobacco pouch out of a leather wallet that I've had for years and never used (I cannot stand bifold wallets), but after I got it all torn apart it had significantly less leather in it than I had hoped.
I may have to go down to the thrift store and see if I can score an old purse or jacket and "upcycle" () it.

[Uncle Arthur]

http://www.pipemakersforum.com/   There ya go. Great folks there.

[Rev. Jade]

Thank you!

I do have one more quick question for you though, if you don't mind.
It seems the two hardware stores where I live do not carry ash, other than table legs.
The majority of the dowels they carry are either oak or poplar.
Will I be able to burn through the center of either of these like I could with ash, or would they need to be drilled?
I'd rather not try and drill them, because I don't really want to buy a super long bit, so if they cannot be burned through I will probably just have to order an ash dowel from somewhere online.
I tried searching the pipe makers' forum, but there was only two posts that came up and both were talking about drilling out the core.

[Uncle Arthur]

Any dowel rod will require drilling. Ash is actually one of the hardest of NA woods. I was referring to the young shoots found growing at the base of many ash trees .
Small limbe without branches will also work. Drilling any dowel rod without a lathe or long throw drill press is also going to be a real pain.

[Rev. Jade]

Ah!
That makes sense!
I shall have to scour the neighborhood for a suitable tree...