How to dye leather - namely, the steps involved.

[sevenlies]

I've recently decided to embark on learning basic leatherworking skills by making a simple harness for my next ensemble.  I've gone to my local Tandy Leather outlet, purchased the items I need, and a good friend has graciously loaned me his tools and some other items to start working.  However, one thing seems to confound me to no end - dyeing the leather.

I purchased a bottle of Eco-Flo dye, Super Shene finish, and a bottle of Fiebings 4-way care leather conditioner.  I've done the appropriate Google searches, and some people say you need to apply the conditioner to the veg-tan leather, then dye, then apply the finish.  Others say you dye first, apply the conditioner, then the finish.  Still others say you dye, finish, then condition. 

I tested another way out on a small piece of scrap leather - I dyed, finished, then conditioned.  It doesn't seem to make a difference, the leather feels very stiff and unyielding.  I'm thinking that the finish and dye is not allowing the conditioner to "soak in".  It would make sense to me to condition, then dye, then finish - but I've read that the conditioner will cause the dye to streak and not apply correctly. 

Could somebody suggest where I should start?  These contradictions have me extremely confused.   

[escherblacksmith]

I'm sure there will be others, but have you asked at your tandy outlet?  Often they will have classes and workshops on the very topic.

That said, I personally have only just dyed the material, let dry, then buffed the excess.

No other additives.

You might also try here (if you haven't already), they are a really helpful and diverse bunch of folks.

[Narsil]

Depending on the leather you may need a pre-treatment to remove any oil/wax/grease from the surface to allow the dye to penetrate properly and evenly. This will also depend to a large extent on whether the dye you are using is oil, alcohol or water based.

Another consideration is whether you dye and/or finish the leather before you assemble the finished item and if any wet forming or tooling is part of the process.

Not all leather conditioners will soften it, certainly not all to the same extent. Mink oil and neetsfoot oil are both good for making leather more supple but should be used sparingly and ideally kept away from stitching as much as possible.

It's certainly true that some conditioners can resist dyes, especially water based ones. Similarly some dyes can dry out leather to a degree so it makes sense to condition it after dying.

I would suggest the following sequence :

-Light cleaning with alcohol, just a wipe try not to saturate it too much.
-Dye (many dyes work best of the leather is slightly damp with water or alcohol depending on the dye solvent).
-Condition
-Finish

Also the type and quality of the leather has a significant effect on how it takes dye. Generally softer leathers like split hides and goat skin will take up dye more quickly than something like full grain cow hide. Chrome tanned leather tends to be more difficult to dye well than veg tanned.

It's pretty normal for veg tanned leather to be quite stiff when new. It's important not to over-condition to try to compensate for this since it will naturally loosen up with normal use.

[MadeBySam]

Finally, a question I know something about! First thing, forget about the conditioner in relation to new veg-tanned leather, it's more of a bringing back old, weathered leather thing. Dye first, then your finish, nothing else. Essentially, anything you do to the leather will make it harder to get a clean, regular dye job. Apply the dye in a scrubbing motion, rather than in brush-strokes, and resign yourself to taking a few light passes to get it even; nobody gets a reliably even dye job in one pass, especially with the new, low VOC dyes like Eco-flow.  Super Shene is a fine sealer/finish, but you may find that one of the wax or oil finishes is more satisfactory for an item to be worn regularly. I tend to finish wristbands and similar items with a quick pass of neatsfoot oil for a very pliable, soft leather. Anything that is going to take a beating tends to get a coat of super shene and a waxing. That said, every leather worker I've ever met has a different approach; some use artist's pigments, and I know a saddlemaker who uses carnuba wax exclusively, so by all means experiment and see what works best for your taste. Hope this helps a little? 
--Sam

[sevenlies]

Thank you all for your input!  Looks like I will be dyeing first, then treating/conditioning, then finishing.

I tend to finish wristbands and similar items with a quick pass of neatsfoot oil for a very pliable, soft leather. Anything that is going to take a beating tends to get a coat of super shene and a waxing.

I appreciate the input, Sam!  My friend who loaned me the tools suggested linseed oil - however, the guy at Tandy Leather said that I would want to use neatsfoot oil or Aussie Conditioning treatment instead - and told me that the Super Shene would render those conditioners unnecessary.  If I use neatsfoot, do I just need to rub a bit into the top and let it penetrate, or do I need to rub it on all sides?  The test piece I dyed and finished is VERY stiff - it doesn't feel pliable at all.  I'm hoping the neatsfoot helps.

[MadeBySam]

If you want the look of the super shene finish, go ahead and apply it to the face, you can apply neatsfoot oil or wax to the back side of the leather to soften it up a little. Be warned, it will eventually permeate the whole thickness of the leather, and it will darken the leather measurably...
--Sam

[Hardwick Steam Impl. Co.]

Dye first, then finish.

If you are having trouble getting consistent color (i.e. blotchy appearance when dry) you can use "dye prep" or moisten the material with whatever solvent is in the dye (usually alcohol) prior to dye application. For larger areas it is recommended to use a piece of woolskin as the applicator, going over the material with even strokes in one direction and repeating in perpendicular and diagonal directions. It is not necessary to saturate the leather, but don't be afraid of using too much dye.

As for softening, this is accomplished with oils, waxes, or both. Some leathers like harness and bridle are "hot stuffed" at the tannery with proprietary oil/wax blends to soften and protect the leather. Unfortunately you are limited to the colors offered as these leathers don't tend to take dye well. You can oil your leather after the dye is dry with neatsfoot oil, saddle oil, olive oil, and probably others. Again you don't want to saturate the leather which is easier to do with oils. Just give it a good wipe-down with the oil of your choice, let it sit a while and then work it over a stake or the edge of a table. Repeat if necessary to further soften, but be careful of how much oil you add. Since it doesn't evaporate it will accumulate in the leather causing it to feel oily indefinitely. Excess oil can also carry out some of the dye pigment, staining anything it touches.

You can make a centuries-old leather conditioner by melting beeswax and olive oil together. It is applied warm, to warmed leather.

FYI - LeatherSheen, especially the newer stuff, isn't very durable and is a wax product that isn't compatible with some other finishes.

[Mr. Hatchett]

I'm not a fan of Super Shene either - the finish is a little too glossy, and it wears poorly.  For heavy veg tan that needs to flex, I usually finish it with lanolin.  Lanolin will help make the leather flexible, protects it from water and won't darken it as much as thinner oils.