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Author Topic: Are you sewing anything right now? Mk II  (Read 48016 times)
D.Oakes
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« Reply #550 on: January 30, 2013, 06:11:41 pm »

I've been thinking of picking up that book.  Is it worth it?

Today's sewing....I needed a break from the Victorian so for the past two days I have been working on Renaissance hats....especially after I realized the online offerings were in a sorry state of elastic....yuck....  Made a flat cap yesterday intended for my fiance....she then wanted a different style....but I discovered something cool in the construction method, without elastic, the technique makes it very much a one-size fits all hat.  Today it is a stocking cap based on ones in a 15th century Florentine fresco.  (In case anyone forgets, I am a Renaissance Art Historian by training.  I am looking at these paintings in a way I never did before.)
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mephit
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« Reply #551 on: January 30, 2013, 07:23:23 pm »

Very nice work, Mr. Watson! If I may ask, who's method did you use to draft the pattern? Cutters' Practical Guide? I've ben trying to find the time to start my own frock drafted from the CPG system but haven't had the chance yet.


I've used the CPG for drafting a waistcoat, but for this coat I used a combination of two frock coats from R.I. Davis' Men's Garments, 1830-1900.

Here is the coat before lining it:



And with one side of the skirt lined (with a hidden tail pocket):



Looking very good. Is the linen shell taking ironwork at all? I thought generally it took the spring of wool to get any real shaping done.

So how is Davis' book? I've seen it before but it's a bit expensive to buy sight unseen. Is he reprinting specific systems or synthesizing them into his own?
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Sam Watson
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« Reply #552 on: January 30, 2013, 07:33:27 pm »

The linen seems to stretch somewhat. I think it may be a linen/cotton blend, so that may help. In any case, the canvas, with gores inserted, fit inside the seam lines once I'd stretched the fronts, so I think it did work. It might not be as permanent as wool, but now that the canvas is in that's probably fairly moot.

In terms of the book, since two of you have asked, it's his own drafts, so it's all one system. He doesn't go into any detail about scaling (i.e. using scaled measuring tapes), but mentions it, so if you don't know what he's talking about it won't make sense. It does seem odd to me that he's drafting everything at Chest=19", but since as far as I knew 18" was the base scale, I'm not sure why he does that. My Chest=18" so I just took his measurements as they were given and used 1"=1" to draft and it seemed to work out.

I have heard that one of the trouser drafts at least (the breeches, I think) doesn't give enough room in the seat to actually sit very well. So keep that in mind and make it baggier if you end up using that draft.

Otherwise, the book gives a good overview of various periods (in general, it gives a style each of trouser, dress coat, coat, waistcoat, overcoat for the 1830's, 60's and 80's) and also gives various styles of body coats and single- vs. double-breasted versions. I would recommend it if you're interested in drafting your own Victorian clothing.
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Samuel Xavier Watson
D.Oakes
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« Reply #553 on: February 02, 2013, 08:24:54 am »

I have heard that one of the trouser drafts at least (the breeches, I think) doesn't give enough room in the seat to actually sit very well.

I do have to admit....this is the one problem that I have encountered with nearly all Victorian patterned clothing.  It must say something to Victorian work ethic.   Grin
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Unsubtle Pete
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« Reply #554 on: February 03, 2013, 11:03:44 pm »

I've started a couple of natural form skirts, pictures to follow in due course.
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Wilhelmina Frame
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« Reply #555 on: February 04, 2013, 06:01:53 am »

nothing victorian but a new skirt

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frances
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« Reply #556 on: February 04, 2013, 07:26:13 pm »

Oh!! does the doggie have a head?
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Wilhelmina Frame
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« Reply #557 on: February 05, 2013, 01:27:18 am »

yes but he's often camera shy.



Oh I made this NF skirt too for a new gown I'm working on.



« Last Edit: February 05, 2013, 01:29:44 am by Wilhelmina Frame » Logged
Stella Gaslight
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« Reply #558 on: February 05, 2013, 05:08:19 am »

Aww puppy face so cute.
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frances
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« Reply #559 on: February 05, 2013, 09:57:30 pm »

What a sweetie.

oh yes, nice skirt!
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D.Oakes
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« Reply #560 on: February 06, 2013, 08:04:06 pm »

Any of you...for the sake of authenticity...use Jean wool....only to discover....THAT YOU HATE THE STUFF!!!!?  It is so scratchy and it has a creepy smell to it....and it frays easily....and it just feels....like a swarm of ants crawled through poison ivy and started crawling over your skin.  EEEK. 

I also recently acquired some nice red wool broad cloth which feels quite comfy and shall make some very comfortable hats.   Grin
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Lady Ava
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« Reply #561 on: February 07, 2013, 03:42:44 pm »

Converted a suit jackets into a ladies blazser yesterday, there's a tutorial for it on the Ava's Apparel blog.
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DreamHazard
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« Reply #562 on: February 13, 2013, 01:28:10 am »

Got to hem up the new pinstripe trousers, bought them off Amazon unhemmed for cheaps, £8, bargain Cheesy

Truth be told I'll probably use the provided wonder web for convenience. I know it's not "sewing" but it does the job nicely.
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Lady Ava
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« Reply #563 on: February 13, 2013, 12:07:24 pm »

Steampunk Poison Ivy outfit to finish.
Teddy Boy jacket to design and toile up.
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Sam Watson
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« Reply #564 on: February 13, 2013, 03:18:30 pm »

I've nearly finished setting the second sleeve in my linen frock coat. I just need to sew the sleeve lining down. I really need a tailor's form - it would make the lining and sleeves so much easier. Guess I'll have to go buy some duct tape and polyfill after work.
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Lachlan_MacAuslander
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« Reply #565 on: March 06, 2013, 10:03:00 pm »

Technically, it's leatherworking - but I've just finished hand-stitching a sporran using a lockstitch awl, and I'm enormously pleased with the results. Pics forthcoming once I finish attaching the latch and glue a couple of gears on...  Tongue
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Flightless Phoenix
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« Reply #566 on: March 07, 2013, 09:48:26 pm »

I've got a bustle skirt I want to finish altering but I've been too busy with other little projects.

It's world book day today so I altered a princess dress into a Queen of Hearts costume for my Boyfriend's little niece (i.e. added a lot of felt hearts =P) and then made a Hogwarts school logo patch for his nephew, along with removing the lenses from a pair of 3D glasses =P. They were both really pleased which made me a really proud and happy 'auntie'.

I also made a miniature mouse for my mum as a mother's day gift, which turned out quite well for a first attempt considering I made it up as I went along. Now I have to make my nana's presents too!

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Lachlan_MacAuslander
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« Reply #567 on: March 07, 2013, 11:39:02 pm »

And voila - one sporran, with gears on:

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Darkling
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« Reply #568 on: March 10, 2013, 01:37:01 pm »

I'm having problems uploading a picture. Help!?
« Last Edit: March 10, 2013, 01:40:49 pm by Darkling » Logged
Darkling
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« Reply #569 on: March 10, 2013, 02:15:30 pm »

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200202856747890&set=a.10200202854747840.1073741825.1646164293&type=3&theater

sorry, that's the only way I could figure out how to get a pic on here...

A few things I've made recently. I think I'm better with a needle than I am computers...
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Lachlan_MacAuslander
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« Reply #570 on: March 12, 2013, 04:36:16 pm »

I usually post the pictures I want to share at Photobucket, but there are other photo sharing sites out there. Photobucket generates a URL for each picture, and even goes so far as to generate different HTML tags (thumbnails, IMG, etc.).

To share the picture here, I go to my Photobucket account, select the Direct Link URL (which automatically copies it for me), then scoot over here, open up a reply, and click on the "Insert Image" button (lower left, looks like a photo). The IMG tags appear in my reply, and I simply past the copied URL between them.

The tag winds up looking something like this:
{img}URLcodegoesinhere{/img} - I've replaced the actual square brackets with curly ones to show how the tag looks.

Haven't tried this with Facebook photos, but theoretically any URL placed between IMG tags should work.  Let's experiment with your link:


And one of mine:


Hm. Broken link image - Looks like Facebook URLs aren't really set up for this sort of thing. Also, if you later move or delete the photo, the link will break (if it's not broken already).
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Darkling
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« Reply #571 on: March 13, 2013, 10:36:05 pm »

Ah, I never thought of using photobucket. Thank you.
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Ms Pipistrelle
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« Reply #572 on: March 16, 2013, 09:46:06 pm »

I've made blue bloomers and 2 styles of blue mob cap to go with a stripey blue dress as my swimsuit for Steampunk at the Seaside and I'm currently finishing making the lace to go around my mob cap. Then I have to sew on another piece of handmade lace onto the 2nd leg of the bloomers.

I'm pretty chuffed because these are the first pieces of tatted lace trim that I've made that have actually made it onto garments!  The finer one is on the mob cap where it won't get as wet, the lace on the bloomers is of much thicker thread.
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Unsubtle Pete
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« Reply #573 on: March 17, 2013, 11:14:49 am »







My assistant's outfit from the Steampunk Market. This was made in only a couple of weeks, and it does show a little*. I'm still very happy with how it turned out, though. Inspired by, but not authentic to, the natural form era. All the skirt drapery is integral to the skirt. Skirt and bodice of cotton satin with some black cotton/cashmere velvet detail on the cuffs. The little jacket is made of cotton velvet.



*It would, I think, benefit from boning down the centre fronts. The rest of the seams - except the diagonal seams of the back - are boned, as are the darts. The sleeves also need resetting.
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walking stick
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« Reply #574 on: March 17, 2013, 11:54:41 am »

Looks pretty good, I've honestly seen worse for sale but if you do want to improve it for next time.

1) Bone  centre front and front bust lines quick sketch in punctuation,  )|(   boning follows the seam as on the back.

2) The front upper skirt section is hanging a little flat sew in a little to create a horizontal curve fold.  
    There are several people on this thread who sew better than I do and can explain the tecnique properly.

3) For the sleeves, you may want to include an underarm gusset for ease of movement
    It's amazing how many dress patterns assume the wearer never raises her arms.

4) If you have any of the blue fabric left over you may want to make cockades,flowers or rosettes.
    These can be placed on the velvet bodice and/or the hat to tie the outfit together.
    Black velvet ribbon used as edging and/or decoration on the dress would also work to do this.

5) Optional accessories
    Black lace fingerless mitts, there are some pretty crocheted versions about.
    Jewellery, cameo broach or perhaps jet beads.
    If the out fit does not have pockets a large black handbag with a long strap to put over the shoulder at need.
 


 
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