James' non-SP model building thread

[James Harrison]

An hour or so's worth of work makes quite an impression:

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I began this evening by taking a decent piece of 3mm thickness balsa and gluing it just behind the last piece of 6mm balsa between the frames.  This served to strengthen and firm up the frames no end and helps keep them straight.  I then glued a piece of paper over the front of the running plate and cut it back to match the plastic sheet.  This was to give a good surface for painting eventually. 

I then consulted the drawing and with the aid of a steel rule and a clothes peg glued the smokebox onto the frames.  It bears directly down onto the two pieces of 6mm balsa, neatly avoiding the problem I had with the N5 of the boiler being too heavy for the plastic frames.  I also took great care to avoid the problem of the J11- that of the boiler turning over so that the holes for the handrail knobs aren't level.  To this end I put a small drill bit through two of them to get a better idea of their level (or lack thereof). 

Now of course on removing the clothes peg the weight of the unsupported brass boiler will cause all manner of havoc, and at the same time keeping the peg in will prevent the model being able to be put down level.... this left only one solution.  I had to build the rear frames at the same time the boiler was fitted.  The rear frames are simply the big wheel splashers- the 'top' of them presses into the boiler sides and holds it in place.  It also helps that the motor is directly under here, so it can't fall too far!  I did take the precaution whilst building these frames of fitting a 1mm fillet of plastic between motor and boiler to keep it all level. 

The frames themselves?  The sides are 0.5mm plastic, whilst the tops are lengths of paper 3mm in width.  These are glued not only to the tops of the splashers but also to the sides of the boiler, to provide a little more rigidity. 

Where do we go from here?  There's a lot still to do, but I think it would be prudent to add a 1mm fillet to the underside of the top of the boiler permanently.  This would keep the thing level permanently and insulate the boiler from the motor (though I doubt this is much of a problem anyway). 

Oh yes, I've also decided which particular engine I'm modelling.  There were 10 in the class and they were all named after directors of the board of the Great Central Railway.  I've seen a model of 5434 The Earl of Kerry and I was looking for something a little more... unusual.  I've decided on 5430 Purdon Viccars, completed September 1913 as GCR #430, absorbed into LNER stock January 1923 as #5430, renumbered 1946 as 2651, then BR #62651 January 1948 and withdrawn March 1953. 

I'm trying with this particular model to really 'go for it'- partly because it's an engine I've wanted for over a decade, partly because I'm getting the Bachmann 'Butler Henderson' ('Improved Director' class of 1921) for Christmas and I want the scratchbuild to bear scrutiny with the RTR machine.

[James Harrison]

No photo updates today but I have managed to build the cab (0.5mm plastic sheet), add the Belpaire firebox (after the third attempt, and using greaseproof paper to form the curve as an experiment), and ordered several parts.  Whitemetal castings for the smokebox door, chimney, dome, buffers and safety valves are on their way... three of each (to have them in stock for the C4 and projected B4)...

[James Harrison]

Bit of a change, hopefully for the better. 

Whenever building a model I always try to balance form and function.  To my mind there is absolutely no point in having a millimetre-perfect model if it breaks just getting it out of the box, or it won't go around curves and dislikes pointwork.  Equally there is no point in having a model which runs superbly, but looks nothing like its prototype. 

I was a little concerned with my D10 because the running plate was very delicate after the operations to narrow it down enough to clear wheels and motion.  I now don't think that a complex reverse-curved running plate can be made well, at least in thin plastic.  Handling the model, it had a palpable 'about to break in three... two... one...' quality about it and I would sooner do something about that now rather than when finished, painted and running about on a layout. 

To this end last night I found the L1 donor body and removed the boiler and cab with a dremel.  Why did I do this?  Because the running plate is also curved (though not in quite the same fashion as the D10) and of moulded plastic- a monocoque form which is much, much stronger.  I now have the L1 running plate and splashers on their own.  I also have the Belpaire firebox of the L1, which I am considering using as a master to make a mould for plastic moulding.  I've stripped down the D10 body I had build- everything except the running plate itself has been saved. 

And now, I'm going to graft those parts onto the L1 frames.  Hopefully this will result in a far more robust model.  It just leaves me wondering- which Hornby body could I use as a basis for the C4?  I'm thinking along the lines of a D49 Hunt...

[James Harrison]

Now that the detour is complete...

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

The top photo basically shews how I've taken the old Triang body and modified it, basically by taking a dremel to it and removing everything above splasher level and all but the bottom few millimetres of the cab sides.  This then gives a good, rigid frame to start from. 

The middle photo shews everything I salvaged from 'Purdon Viccars Mk 1' now attached to form 'Purdon Viccars Mk 2'.  This was basically the cab sides, the boiler and the upper frames.  The running plate of the L1 needed considerable widening and this has been done with plastic sheet.  To build in the curves I may resort to paper. 

The bottom photo shews another view.  Starting to look like a 'Director'- but a lot of work to do yet.  Running plate needs finishing, boiler fittings, cab front and roof, handrails, steampipes, buffer beam, smokebox front.... the list is almost endless and that's even before we get onto the tender....

In other news- a pair of really, really old model railway magazines fell onto my doormat this morning- they predate the end of steam on British Railways!  I now have drawings for both the B4 'Immingham' class and the B5 'Fish' class.  They're both for 7mm scale though, so will need some scaling down.  I think, should I build either of them, I'd need to use the Hornby D49 body shell to supply the running plates.... more projects for the pile...

[James Harrison]

One of those days where hours get spent on it but for precious little overall effect (luckily I have two more days of the weekend). 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I had to add 3 millimetres behind the end of the L1 frames to bring the engine up to full length (however, the cab side sheets finish flush with the L1 frames).  I did this using a laminate of plastic sheet, supported by a pair of brackets made up from some scrap material. 

I made four attempts to add the cab spectacle plate.  It may seem a simple part, but the window cut outs come excruciatingly close to the edges, making natural weak spots.  It also has to be cut out inside to clear the boiler barrel.  So in effect it is a weak, thin and narrow 'n' shape.  I made it from a laminate of paper to make cutting the spectacles that little bit easier.  I also borrowed a technique from the old Kitmaster/Airfix/Dapol loco kits in cutting the windows out without their outer edges, and setting the plate inside the edges of the cab side sheets.  So the thickness of the side sheet provides the outer edge of the window. 

The cab roof is of my usual method- a laminate of paper.  To get the curves on this I always roll the paper around a cylindrical former- be it a pencil, a knife handle, a paintbrush or anything else with a circular cross section I have to hand- and it makes it alot easier to curve the paper to the correct radius but more importantly then holding that radius when outside influence (ie- my fingers or tweezers) is removed. 

In the photos I've also dropped on top of the boiler the dome and the chimney I salvaged from the L1.  I've ordered proper Robinson-pattern whitemetal ones from a kitmaker, but even putting these temporary ones in place suddenly makes the engine recognisable as a 'Director' as opposed to, say, a LNWR George the Fifthclass.

Lots of work still to do though!

a) Tender
b) Lower sheets of the spectacle plate
c) Reversing gear
d) Boiler fittings
e) Frame sides
f) Buffer beam
g) Boiler bands
g) Handrails and steampipe

[James Harrison]

I'm waiting on parts that I've ordered; however work continues apace...

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Yes!  We have paint!  Not a final coat or finishing coat, but at least something smeared on so it looks a little more 'locolike'.  (Maybe I should use photographer's grey?) 

Aside from that, much has been added, all in one marathon session today, but nothing especially new in terms of technique.  Handrail knobes are 1mm plastic rod, handrails themselves are 0.5mm plastic rod.  I know we had a discussion about using brass wire, but to be honest I just feel more comfortable using plastic... plus it was cheaper... and made me less likely to swear (quite an important point considering my Mother was in the room next door....)  Maybe for the next model.  I'm very happy with the result this time though- at least it is straight 

I've added some new side frames, from 0.5mm plastic sheet and glued onto the frames of the L1 running plate.  To cover up the gaps I then gave the lot a copious coating of milliput.  I've also added a rear frame to the cab roof from the same plastic sheet and using a laminate of it built the box above the spalsher that the reversing gear lives in.  Now I just have to fabricate the reversing lever itself. 

After this we're on to the tender....

[James Harrison]

Yesterday the castings for the chimney, dome, safety valves, smokebox door and buffers arrived from Craftsman kits.  Very clean pieces, with next to no flash to clean off and excellent service (I have no connection with Craftsman, except for being a happy customer).  Well worth the £2 per casting.  Today I've put in my order with Jackson Evans/Modelmaster for etched brass nameplates. 

As to work itself; the dome, safety valve, chimney and smokebox door have been attached and the only parts really necessary for the locomitve itself now are the last of the handrails (around the cab), some slight alteration to one of the frames, the bufferbeam, smokebox dart, reversing lever and the ribbing on the cab roof. 

I've also given it a second coat of paint and am now starting to 'have the willies' about applying the lining.  Two bands of 0.25mm red paint either side of 0.25mm band of black.... This may be one of those things I do on paper and simply wrap around.  Perhaps, for the next one, I'd be better off doing all of this work before lowering the boiler onto the frames and attaching the handrails?

[James Harrison]

Cross about half of my 'list of things to do' off that list....

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Still to do:

-Bufferbeam
-Footsteps
-Painting
-Lining
-Tender

[James Harrison]

There's no photo update tonight (but I have a nice surprise for tomorrow...)

Purdon Viccars sits on the kitchen table, gently drying her (his?) 'varnish' topcoat.  It's finished in post-1928 LNER lined black livery (again, to ring the changes- of the other three in my collection to sport this livery, two are tank engines and the third is Bachmann's K3 half-job). 

Now, I have only to build the tender.  But already I can visualise what it'll look like when finished, and I am very, very happy with it.  Until I get the Bachmann Butler Henderson at least....   

[James Harrison]

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Practically finished! (well, half of it at least).  Chimnery, dome, safety valves, smokebox door and buffers are all whitemetal castings from Craftsman.  The nameplate is a brass etching from Jackson Evans.  Lining was done, on the second attempt, by painting up a sheet of paper with the correct colour and cutting the shapes out to glue them on with UHU applied with a cocktail stick.  Bit of a gamble, but it seems to have paid off.  I may go back later and thin down the red lines somewhat with a black felt tip pen. 

Now, for the tender....

[James Harrison]

Yesterday I started the tender.  Some of you may recall the N5 I built back in January and the brouhaha we had around the chassis, ultimately solved by buying an entire locomotive, which at the time moght have seemed a little extravagant.  

Not quite so.  The unused tender from that engine has found a new use (or rather, its frames have).  Removing the tank revealed a laminated metal weight and a thick plastic moulding for the underframes.  Unfortunately this was too long, but after a quick operation with the coping saw was just the right length.  The joints were strengthened with strips of 0.5mm plastic glued along the length of the underframe.  The weight itself was de-laminated and then cut (an interesting exercise involving a dremel cutting disk [which shattered at high speed], patient sawing with a hacksaw [which took ages] and finally, brute strength [I took a stern grip and broke the   ]).  

Now we have a decent base off which to build our tender....

In other news I've thinned down the lining on the engine itself with a fountain pen (and a very steady hand), and, having declared it 'finished', discovered I'd left off the footsteps    .  They're currently being built up from 0.5mm plastic.  

And I've just decided to take on a new project... after the C4, the B4, the B5, the various Edwardian dreadnoughts and who-knows-what-else...

... 'Hush-hush' in original form with watertube boiler and battleship grey livery.

[James Harrison]

I decided to do something experimental so had a go at building in paper instead of plastic... for reasons that will become obvious, I hope. 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I began by taking the tender chassis described yesterday and, building on my experiences of the J11, doing something about its length and height; the tender tank sits on a plinth and this time I remembered to build it.

To start this off, I cut two identical pieces out of paper (85mm long by 33mm wide, with a hole 70mm by 24mm in the centre), then some 12mm strips (2 off 85mm long, 2 off 33mm long).  These strips were then creased, 5mm wither side with a 2mm channel down the centre.  They were then glued to one of the sheets, with the other sheet glued on top.  This completes the tender chassis, once glued into position (from the front mark 17mm back, then line this up with the centre line of the front axle- this ensures everything on the tender is quite correct). 

Now, to actually allow the tender to couple to the locomotive.  I'm using the remnants of a Mainline 'Collett Goods' tender, which originally hooked onto the loco.  I'm also using the chassis of a Triang L1; which doesn't engage with this hook.  I did cut the hook off this morning, and drill through the plastic bar it was attached to, but this didn't work too well.  On the loco itself I've simply put a screw through the hole for the tender connection... the two engaged but were too tight.  So I went back, had a think about it and broke out the copper wire.  Twisted an eyelet in it, then forced the ends through the hole I'd drilled and drowned it in UHU glue underneath.  I then took some paper and wrapped it around this joint for some added security. 

Back to the body work. 

The tender is basically a box; a fairly simple form.  I took a piece of A4 paper and found, if I were prepared to sacrifice 1mm off the tank length and 1mm off the width, I could form it from the width of one sheet (210mm).  So I did.  I then made some doubling plates (basically lengths of paper to 10mm width, folded lengthways) and glued these into the corners for some added strength. 

To make sure everything was square, at this point I turned to the tank top.  Again I cut the part out, with a 5mm 'border' around it, then glued it into position (the border being creased and folded down to provide a positive joint between the side and the top). 

But that only covers half of the tender; what about the coal scuttle?  This angles down and in at the same time; I tackled it one angle at a time.  The first part was the downward slope; cut to the full width of the tender and, when in position, squaring up the front of the tank nicely.  I then turned my attention to the sides; the tops were triangular too so when drawing the net of the form you end up with a <=] sort of shape (the '= and ]' are the tabs that will, when cut out and folded and glued, keep the shape). 

At this point I found I had made a bit of an error.  The tender flares out at the top, with coal rails above this flare.  I had cut my tender sides at a level consistant with the tank top, intentionally so at the time I actually did it.  But now it occurred to me that I had actually made life harder for myself- I had to cut these flares from a seperate piece of paper and then find a means of attaching them to the body.  Next time I think I'll cut the tender sides as one piece, flare and all, to do away with this joint. 

So, to conclude the experiment; why did I do it, what have I learnt?

As to why I did it; I wanted to just 'see if it could be done'.  I've used paper before on my models (eg deckhouses on Barham and small bits on the J11 and N5), but wanted to see if it can also be used for larger parts too.  If the part being made is a rigid box, does it really need the degree of strength that plastic sheet provides?  Also, considering my future project list includes a series of electric locos which are basically boxes, and a steam loco with a boiler that isn't circular, I wanted to see if paper would provide a useful material to form rigid 'easy' forms and more curvaceous ones.   

What have I learnt?  Yes, it can; with appropriate doubling-up of material thicknesses and bracing.  I can foresee that my expenditure on plastic sheet will tail off somewhat now.... (the parts just for HMS Dreadnought have used up 5/6 of a packet!)



 

[James Harrison]

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I had a little spare time this morning, so decided to 'pretty much' complete the tender....

The bufferbeam is about the only plastic part on the whole model, with the exception of the donor chassis.  The buffers are GCR Robinson round-pattern ones, whitemetal castings from Craftsman Kits.  Lamp irons and hand rails were added using lengths of 1mm plastic rod.  When all of this detailing was added, I gave the whole body another coat of humbrol matt black. 

The list of things still to be done now reads as follows:

1. Red paint on the bufferbeam and stocks.
2. Lining & transfers.
3. Varnish. 
4. Vacuum pipe and coupling fittings.   

[James Harrison]

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Finished!  Vacuum pipes and coupling hooks came off the model that donated the tender chassis... transfers are from the HMRS pressfix range.... lining was done by cutting the form out of paper, then painting when glued to the model and lining in with a black felt-tip when dry. 

I am very, very pleased with this one. 

[James Harrison]

Now then, what's my overall evaluation of Purdon Viccars?

Firstly, this is an engine I've wanted for well over a decade and I'm now the proud owner of one; so I'm very pleased with it.
 
Secondly, if I were to point out a few failings of mine with it I'd say primarily the running plate was an absolute  to get right, secondly one or two areas look a little 'rough' and thirdly the lining is quite coarse (I'm in two minds whether to keep it or not- if I try to remove who knows what further damage may be done?)

On the other hand; the tender turned out quite neat.  I think certainly for large flat areas (tenders, cabs, fireboxs etc), reinforced paper nets are probably the better way to go than plastic.  I also think that maybe, just maybe, it could be possible to fabricate curved running plates from the stuff, if the valances are engineered as a form of substrate rather than an aesthetic addition. 

I learned one important lesson, and that is for lined engines; it is better to do the lining 'in the flat' rather than trying to apply it to a fully built-up model.  Also, I may try using felt-tips to draw the lining rather than painting it. 

The next model to be built will be....

... either HMS Dreadnought (if the book arrives before I get impatient), or

a Jersey Lily.

[James Harrison]

Yesterday, I started in earnest on a Jersey Lily. 

Bits I already had to hand:

- Triang/ Hornby B12 chassis and motor
- Hornby B17 valvegear
- Gibson 14mm wheelset
- Hornby A1/ A3/ A4 Cartazzi truck

Previously, I had switched around the wheels on the B12 chassis and shortened the coupling rods to create the requisite four-coupled motion, and 'amended' the B17 valvegear by cutting away those parts I didn't need.  I have described this operation in some detail about half-way down page 5 of this thread.

Now, yesterday I took my dremel and cut away the last 14 or so millimetres of the B12 chassis (a diagonal cut immediately behind the motor mount).  I'm now looking at how to affix the Cartazzi truck, and I think I have a way of doing it. 

Drill a hole into the B12 chassis where the cut was made yesterday.  Take the cartazzi truck and cut a notch into its floor, then bend the metal through 90 degrees.  Drill a hole through this.  Widen the notch at the front of the truck to permit some degree of lateral movement.  Take a screw, push it through the hole in the truck and then push a small spring over it (the spring I may have to make from wire).  Thread the end of the screw into the hole in the chassis and secure with UHU/ araldite.  In theory, this should provide a strong positive joint with a degree of flexibility to allow the chassis to negotiate curves and pointwork. 

[James Harrison]

Progress, albeit of a retrograde sort. 

Firstly on the C4- I cut away at the cartazzi truck casting and the metal proved thicker than I had anticipated.  Thus I have been unable to bend it, as I glibly laid out above, and am now pondering just how, exactly, to affix the truck to the chassis. 

Secondly; back to the D10.  Although I was (and still am) happy with Purdon Viccars, the state of those frames just keep niggling at me.  Before (s)he has even turned a wheel in revenue-earning service, I have decided to do something about it.  It will be recalled how I built the tender out of paper, and how neat a finish that gave; I've taken that technique a step further:

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I began by taking a sheet of paper and marking out on it the line of the frame, as viewed from the side.  Then  I drew out the top view, the other side and the bottom.  On the inside side of the frame I also drew in the valances over the driving wheels.  I should point out that I drew all of this as a net- a form that, once cut and scored, could be folded up and needed gluing only on one 'tab'.  I proceeded to do this and ended with a nice, neatly edged, surprisingly strong box form. 

Sharp-eyed viewers will note that the frames are slightly different to the plastic ones built for Purdon Viccars; to allow a little more strength in the construction (well I say so; it was just easier for me) I decided to employ 'modellers licence' and reinstated the lower valances that, on the original, were removed in around 1924/25.  I've also had a go at building one side without this valance; although a little more complicated to draw out (and a little more difficult to get the form right once folded and glued) it seems the technique works just as well.  So when I get to that stage on the C4....

Let's conclude this post with a couple of lists; firstly the list of new components I've in mind to make:

- Frames
- Running plate
- Valances
- Cab sheets
- Firebox (?) [perhaps]

Secondly, the list of parts I'll be salvaging from the existing model:

- Boiler
- Boiler fittings
- Chassis
- Reversing lever
- Bufferbeam
- Nameplates

[James Harrison]

After fabricating new cab sheets and affixing them to the new frames, I set about the job that could make or break this (literally); liberating the boiler.  I carefully appraised the existing model and decided just where to make the cut; influenced by my wish to retain the front frames, I cut just in front of the wheel slashers.  Two dremel cuts seperated the boiler and the front half of the running plate from the valances and the cab, or rather, separated two sides from the boiler....

I then took two more cuts, one down each side just outside the frames, to narrow down the boiler's footprint enough to slip into the new frames.  And, I am pleased to say, the operation was a success!

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As you can see, back on its wheels, and the frames far neater in finish than previously.  Now, into the paint shop....

[James Harrison]

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Last update for today; gave all of the new bits a coat of paint and am leaving it all to dry off.At this stage I can also make an informed decision about lining- overall I think this nicely defines the curves of the model, so I'll be fully lining out the new parts. 

[James Harrison]

Roughly six hours' work over two days gets us this far:

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Looking a lot neater and sharper, I'm sure you will agree. 

The cab roof I've added as per my usual method of paper; had a bit of a kerfuffle getting it right but we're more or less there now. 

Lining was cut out of paper, glued into position then painted. 

One thing I have noticed is that the frames have slightly distorted; I don't think paper alone could hold the weight of the brass tube boiler (or maybe I forced them too far over the lugs on the chassis).  The effect of this is that the cab has pulled away from the boiler a little (only of the nature of 1mm or so).  This I have remedied by filling the gap with fillips of paper, and I may go back and add the final boiler band shewn in the drawing at this position to disguise the joint.  It does, however, serve a purpose in telling me that in future the cab should be viewed as the extremity of the boiler assembly rather than an extension of the frames. 

The next step will be to touch in the final gaps in the paintwork, then add the cabside number. 

[James Harrison]

And so after a weekend of frenetic activity, the saga of the D10 draws to a conclusion:

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Before rebuilding





After rebuilding

I think it looks a lot neater, don't you agree?

[James Harrison]

I've just won this on ebay:



It's the chassis for a Bachmann Peppercorn A1; all I am saying at this point is that what I plan to do with it is very 'hush hush'. 

[James Harrison]

Mulling things over, I can improve the D10 still further;

By adding some fairly hefty timber baulks alongside the front frames of the L1 donor, I can pull up (and straighten out) the paper frames I added last weekend.  These same baulks can then better support the front bufferbeam. 

Furthermore, I have plans for a futher engine; if I can get hold of the old Ratio Johnson 4-4-0 I have a choice of either a D52 (straight-up build of the kit; just a pity they didn't make it onto the GC mainline) or, taking advantage of similarities in wheelbase, wheel diameters, splashers, boiler diameter and basic shape of cab, a D7. 

Projects, projects.... at this rate I'll be able to field a good selection of ex-Great Central locomotives, but have nowhere to either run them or store them 

[James Harrison]

And lo it was done! 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I took a strip of 3mm thick balsa wood and glued it down the inside of the paper frames; the effect of which is to strengthen up that whole area of the model, to prevent it either warping or buckling, should I have to remove the body to access the motor.  At the same time I added another baulk across the front of the frames to give a positive joint for the bufferbeam...

I then removed the plastic handrails.  As I have nothing better to replace them with, I took the decision to leave them off entirely.  The principal benefit to this is that I can handle the model without worrying that the handrails are about to break apart. 

I think that we're done here.  And, after several attempts at building her (him?), isn't (s)he a beauty? 

[James Harrison]

After a bit of head-scratching and some insomnia-driven thinking things over at 3AM, I am pleased to report I have now adapted a Triang B12 chassis into something I can use for the Jersey Lily.  Basically, the problem was how to remove one pair of driving wheels and replace them with a pony truck. 

Last time, we reached the point of having the pony truck and having cut away some of the webbing on said truck, but no way of attaching it. 

What I have done is to take the part of the chassis I had cut off, which included the shaft that the driving axle runs through, and slip it onto the trailing axle, then slide the whole thing into the pony truck.  This includes the hook for drawing the tender.  Now, on the 'back' of the chassis where I had cut it is a screw hole to hold the collector plate in place.  I think you can see where this is going.  I put the tender hook into this hole (it's a screw, so holds itself in place) and hey presto! A 4-4-2 chassis from a 4-6-0 donor.  Photos later; batteries are practically dead...