James' non-SP model building thread

[Drew P]

As one who also likes to make things-you are using your time wisely

[James Harrison]

Thanks    I also have a few ideas up the sleeve for Steampunk builds... for which I need to accrue various bits and at least two new skills....

Today I spent mostly, it seems, wrecking what I've already done.  Started off by screwing the body onto the chassis.  As it happens, the three screws (two for the loco, one for the tender) are different lengths... and I neglected to make notes of which one was which when disassembling the donor.  I *think* that they decrease in length from front to rear, that is, the longest one goes through the front bufferbeam, then the next shortest one goes into the cab and the shortest into the tender. 

But by the time I sorted that out, I'd managed to distort the frames, which dragged the cab from the firebox, opening up a 'gap'.  A good analogy would be to go find a painting of the wreck of the Titanic, then look at how the expansion joint in the middle of the bow section has pulled open.... it was kind of like that. 

Milliput solved that problem admirably.  Unfortunately whilst doing this I managed, somehow, to knock my N5 off of the shelf and on a 4' excursion to the floor.  Luckily the only damage suffered was a broken buffer, broken footstep and missing lamp iron. Repaired the buffer and footstep and put the model in a box so it doesn't happen again. 

Five minutes later, the J11 suffered the same fate     

Damage this time?  A damaged cab side sheet; which had to be repaired using paper and milliput.  It also seems that the wires from pickups to motor were pulled; apparently undamaged but who knows what fun and games were inflicted inside the wire insulation? 

Once I had *finished* this rampage I managed to apply a coat of black paint at least, which has improved appearances no end, and then set-to with the tender. 

The 4F tender tank is pretty much the same length as that on the J11, but the frames will need extending.  Everything else though, is wrong.  I salvaged the handbrake handles off of the tender body, the cut around the tank at footplate height.  This was then sanded smooth.  This leaves the screw hole and the pinch-point to hold the body to the chassis, but removes pretty much the entire body save the lowermost 3mm. 

I then moved onto the dome.  I began by tracing around a screwhead (11mm diameter) on both 6 and 3mm balsa wood.  A bit Heath-Robinson-esque, but then again I don't have a small enough compass to draw the form otherwise.  These were then roughly cut out, then filed smooth.  The 3mm piece then had a curve filed to it to form the hemispherical form, then they were glued together.  I then filed a small groove into the 6mm piece, and glued it to the boiler.  I then took some milliput and liberally smeared it around the whole part, twirling it in my fingers a couple of times to smooth the whole thing down.  Result?  A fairly close approximation of a Robinson dome (close enough for me, at any rate). 

[James Harrison]

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I hope these few photos show what I've been trying to describe the last few days...

I decided that the plastic handrails were too coarse, so tried my hand at making some wire ones.  They're a little buckled and far from perfect, but far more 'to scale' than the plastic ones.  Maybe some finer plastic rod (maybe 0.5mm) would be better.  Anyway; how I did it-  beginning by cutting the wire to length, then adding the curves around the smokebox.  The plastic handrail knobs were heated and melted around the wire to hold it in place.  This was done by taking a wax sculpting tool and heating it in a candle flame, then taking the hot iron to the plastic knobs.  I would have used  soldering iron, which would have been much quicker, but I decided against this option when I considered the likelihood of the iron getting too hot and ruining the entire model.  At least using a candle to heat the tool there is a far smaller likelihood of over-heating or melting an excess of plastic.  Next time I do this I will leave the knobs well overlength; cutting them back to 1mm before melting them left something of a shortage of material to bond the wire to. 

The cab roof is a double thickness of paper curved to the right radius.  Lamp irons are short lengths of 1mm plastic rod.  The reversing lever is made up from 0.5mm plastic sheet, whilst the smokebox door hinge is a length of 1mm plastic rod bonded to a tiny piece of paper.  A similar method created the smokebox dart. 

The only parts left for the locomotive now are the whistle and the couplings- on to the tender!

[James Harrison]

I've added the whistle.  It's the one off of the 4F donor loco, set into the cab roof and driven down to the appropriate height (basically, only the bit above the two 'pips' has to show). 

I've also started work on the tender.  I faced a problem in that the tender sides are flared right at the top... What to do, what to do, what to do?  I settled for the easy way out- I cut the tender sides and back from plastic sheet, but cut them under-height (the top of these sides is the bottom of the flare).  I then took some paper and cut the flares out, plus a few millimetres below that so as to give a good purchase.  I then curved these a little around a half-round file and glued them onto the tender sides, to create a flared tender side sheet. 

I've decided to paint these and add transfers before building the tender up; I don't much fancy my chances at getting the transfers into the right spot on the built-up model... on the N5 I found the model moved as I applied pressure and, well, the transfers didn't go on quite to plan....

[James Harrison]

This evening I added the transfers.  Easily, easily, the most tension-filled part of the build I find (maybe it's because they have to be applied using water, once in place they can't be moved and if you  it up you have the devil's own job to put things right?) 

On the N5 I added the insignia and number after building the entire model, which then rocked and rolled around as I was applying the transfers... although 'good' the result wasn't anywhere near what I deem 'acceptable'. 

So I changed tactics this time.  I added the insignia and number to the tender sides whilst still 'in the flat' so to speak, and to make sure they were in the right place (and right way up/around) I began by making careful measurements and drawing onto the parts, lightly, lines for where the transfer has to fall.  I then cut them out of the sheet using a scalpel and, holding them in tweezers, applied water to the backing paper before placing them on the model.  Last time I found that the backing paper was so completely opaque that I couldn't see the placing of the transfer before I pressed it down and removed the backing sheet (the transfers are of the pressfix variety).  The result this time was that the backing paper became transparent to the point that I could see where the transfer was before permanantly affixing it... a much neater result ensued. 

The sides were then coated with watered-down PVA glue to provide a degree of protection to the transfers... I have an abiding fear that they will, at some point, fall off and insist upon varnishing them to some degree.  PVA just happens to dry to a matt finish so it, in my opinion, an ideal candidate for the job. 

[James Harrison]

Batteries are practically dead on both laptop and camera- so this has to be quick- but suffice is to say that I've built the tender frames (on the J11 tender frames are level with footplate- not so on the 4F....)  To do this I had to cut the frames out of plastic sheet, but then set about the tender chassis with hacksaw to make them fit.... there's a lip on the bottom of the tender body that had to be filed away, and the rear footsteps removed.... nothing is ever easy....

But now I have something that actually looks like a Robinson GCR tender....

[James Harrison]

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I think we're getting somewhere, don't you?  I added the tender tank top from plastic sheet, having made a cut-out for the motor top.  This I then covered over with roughly torn kitchen tissue paper, to create a foundation layer for the coal.  The tank filler is 6mm balsa with a strip of plastic rod glued into a filed groove to represent the hinge. 

I said earlier that I had applied the transfers whilst the tender sides werre still in the flat, and this I feel is a good technique to use (you just have to be careful not to get glue/paint on them later in the build).  To ring the changes I chose to model a livery not often seen- LNER pre-1928.  Prior to 1928, the letters 'L N E R' were 7.25'' high and located on the tender, whilst the locomotive numbers were 12'' high and located below the letters.  This continued into the 1930s on tank locomotives, but on tender engines from 1928 onward the letters became 12'' high located in the middle of the tender side sheets whilst the numbers became 7'' and located on the cab side sheets.  Yet ready-to-run manufacturers concentrate solely on the post-1928 scheme...

[James Harrison]

LNER #5219 on my dining room table this morning, above a photograph of LNER #5219 at Neasden shed, North London, in August 1926. 

I think, chaps, that we're about done here.  That's real coal in the tender (I live on top of the South Staffordshire coalfield and we literally have lumps of this stuff sticking out of the ground).  I added a pair of coal rails which I built up out of tiny strips of 0.5mm plastic sheet, and vacuum brake pipes folded up from 0.6mm brass wire.

Now all she needs is a little touching-in with a fine paintbrush, a coat of PVA glue to seal everything and a crew. 

What have I learned this time around? 

1. Re-use as much of the donor loco as possible.  An Airfix 4F donated not only the chassis and motor, but also the running plate and the foundation for the tender.  Fabricating these parts myself would have made the project not only a bit longer and more complex, but also not quite so likely to succeed.  This time I do at least have a body that is securely fixed to the chassis. 

2.  It is quite possible to save money by making your own boiler fittings.  You just need time and patience.  And to be prepared to accept something that 'looks right' than is absolutely millimetre perfect (something even some kits struggle with). 

3.  Handrails, boilerbands and such like are much easier to apply before final assembly.  It is also a good idea to fit handrail knobs considerably over-length and trim back to suit.  Hand rails, though, probably would be better in the finest plastic rod available.  My main criticism on this model is that the wire handrails are buckled, out-of-true and let the whole model down.  But it is too late to replace them, as it would mean replacing the knobs at the same time, which are securely fixed into the boiler and also themselves secure the weight into the engine.  Too big a job. 

4.  Transfers are best applied with components 'in the flat' before assembly.  It also pays to gently mark exactly where they have to go with a pencil line, and to wet the backing paper before pressing the transfer into place.

On to the next project now I guess.  A 1/700 paper model HMS Dreadnought scaled up to 1/600, built out of plastic sheet and adapted to full-hull rather than a waterline model.  This should be a good one.   

[James Harrison]

Perhaps I should outline my full projects list for 2011/12/13....

1) 1/600 DKM Leipzig~ scratchbuild, completed November 2011.
2) 1/600 DKM Prinz Eugen~ kitbuild, completed January 2012.   
3) 1/76 GCR/LNER N5~ scratchbuild, completed January 2012.
4) 1/600 HMS Barham~ kitbash, completed March 2012. 
5) 1/76 GCR/LNER J11~ scratchbuild, completed March 2012. 

...

6) 1/600 HMS Dreadnought~ scratchbuild, commencing March 2012. 
7) 1/76 GCR/LNER D10~ scratchbuild, commencing
1/600 HMS Temeraire~ scratchbuild, commencing
9) 1/76 GCR/LNER C4~ scratchbuild, commencing
10) 1/350 Varyag~ kitbuild, commencing
11) 1/76 GCR/LNER hybrid 56' brake 3rd~ scratchbuild, commencing
12) 1/76 NER/LNER 'steeplecab' electric shunter~ scratchbuild, commencing
13) 1/76 NER/LNER electric freight locomotive~ scratchbuild, commencing  
14) 1/76 NER/LNER electric express passenger locomotive~ scratchbuild, commencing

...

~To be followed in threads in 'Tactile'~

'Demon in a Glass Case'~ inspired by the Paul Roland song of the same name.  Design currently evolving.
'Farnsworth Communicator'~ internet hand-held videophone inspired by Warehouse 13.  Currently the subject of feasibility discussion on the Tactile boards.   

[Athanor]

Those are some very nice locomotive builds, Mr. Harrison!

I'd just make one comment though; having scratchbuilt and kitbashed several loco's myself (4mm scale, narrow gauge; one of these days I'll post some photos),I would NOT recommend plastic rod for handrails; it is just far too fragile. I find that steel music wire, 0.020" diameter (piano wire) works best.

This is a high-tensile strength cold-drawn tempered high carbon steel (ASTM A228, for the technical-minded), it is stiff and resilient, and resists buckling, but isn't too difficult to work with; it will even take 90 degree bends, cold, without breaking, and can be curved with jeweller's roundnose pliers. It is best cut with an abrasive disc, though, as it will quickly take the edge off regular wire cutters.

Now,as to acquiring the stuff; musical instrument stores sell it in 500ft coils, which is expensive, and (where I live anyway) they don't generally like to sell less than a full coil. I bought a whole coil to restring a friend's hammer dulcimer, and had about 350ft left over, so I have enough handrail wire to last me several lifetimes. Steel (not phosphor bronze) guitar wire is perhaps similar, but seems to me to be softer. Most hobby shops sell what they call "piano wire" in shorter lengths, but again it seems to me to be softer and less resilient than the real thing. Perhaps you could seek out a friendly instrument maker or piano tuner??

I hope this hint is helpful.

Athanor

[Angus A Fitziron]

Get to know somebody who plays guitar! You will find plain strings ranging from 0.009" in diameter to 0.017" commonly available in 25 ~ 26" lengths. Electric rock guitar tend to be 0.009 ~ 0.017. You might get something a bit fatter with a jazz guitarist but I would have thought at 1/76 you are in the right ball park. Choose somebody who is a regular gigging guitarist or someone keen enough to change strings regularly!! Far better to recycle their old strings rather than put them out with the rubbish to stab the bin men! Ask around until you find someone using the gauge you need.

Quick guide:
#1 string - 9 to 13 (0.009" to 0.013" - "super slinky" string set to "medium" weight set)
#2 string - 13 to 17
#3 string ~ 17 where a plain string is used (most light to medium weight string sets would have a wound 3rd string)

[Athanor]

Been doing a bit of Web research.... it seems most "steel" guitar strings these days are actually hard phosphor bronze, which is ok; nicely stiff and resilient. I definitely wouldn't go any thinner than 0.017" though; this scales out to a bit over 1" in 4mm scale so is just about "spot on" for size. 0.020 is a bit stiffer, which might be advantageous even if slightly overscale; some electric guitar strings are that heavy. Find yourself a friendly rock guitarist!

Sorry; don't want to hijack your thread. Good luck with future projects!

Athanor.

[James Harrison]

No no; you're not hi-jacking the thread, I appreciate advice 

I guess it will be helpful that my father, uncle and brother all play guitar.... now I just have to wait for a string to break and try to cadge it off of them.  The wire I have been using is the brass sort usually used for jewellery making, but my main problem with it as can be seen in the photos is that it just won't straighten out. 

Thanks!

[Mécanicien de Vapeur]

Regarding handrails - I've always used 0.33mm brass wire for my 4mm:ft projects. With steam locos, using Alan Gibson brass handrail knobs of the right length (they come in short/medium/long/extra-long) and on diesels and other stuff, just a 0.4mm hole drilled as required, superglued in (ideally from the non-visible side). Once painted, it's spot-on for diameter. Also commonly available in 0.45mm and 0.7mm (the latter I use on O gauge stuff)

Many of the specialist model suppliers will carry brass wire in various diameters - I usually go for it pre-cut in 12" straight lengths. Costs about £1 for 10 x 12" lengths. Easy to bend and shape, robust enough to withstand handling.  Can also be had coiled in longer lengths, but trying to straighten it for use is a real PITA!

HTH

[James Harrison]

Many of the specialist model suppliers will carry brass wire in various diameters - I usually go for it pre-cut in 12" straight lengths. Costs about £1 for 10 x 12" lengths. Easy to bend and shape, robust enough to withstand handling.  Can also be had coiled in longer lengths, but trying to straighten it for use is a real PITA!

The stuff I have at the moment comes in a coil... and it is the Devil's own job to try to straighten it out (though I suspect he's actually employed by the factory to coil it up in the first place).  I'll have a look for some straight brass wire next time I go into Birmingham/ have to buy other bits off of Eileens Emporium.  Thanks! 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

The new project:  1/600 HMS Dreadnought. 

Beginning as a 1/700 papermodel download (available completely free!), I took the sheets of components into Photoshop and scaled them up by around 13% to 1/600 scale.  I then printed the sheets out and laminated them to 0.5mm plastic sheet using impact adhesive. 

Construction is basically as-per the instructions; I'm just contemplating how to add the hull below the waterline (which will more than double the depth of the hull).  I could go for a couple of sheets of balsawood, but I don't have enough... alternatively I could use the last of my plastic sheet to build up the bottom in the same fashion as the sides.

[Mécanicien de Vapeur]

The new project:  1/600 HMS Dreadnought. 

Beginning as a 1/700 papermodel download (available completely free!), I took the sheets of components into Photoshop and scaled them up by around 13% to 1/600 scale.  I then printed the sheets out and laminated them to 0.5mm plastic sheet using impact adhesive. 

I do recall building a WW1-era 1/600 dreadnaught many moons ago during my warship kit building days... Airfix HMS Iron Duke maybe?? I don't know how close Iron Duke would be to HMS Dreadnought though, or whether any parts would be common (turrets and some fittings perhaps). 

[Angus A Fitziron]

No no; you're not hi-jacking the thread, I appreciate advice 

I guess it will be helpful that my father, uncle and brother all play guitar.... now I just have to wait for a string to break and try to cadge it off of them.  The wire I have been using is the brass sort usually used for jewellery making, but my main problem with it as can be seen in the photos is that it just won't straighten out. 

Thanks!

The plain strings, ie not the ones with another wire wrapped around the core are usually made of a nickel steel. It has to contain steel in order to be magnetised so that it will work with electric pickups. For electric guitars, wound strings (usually strings 4,5 and 6) are wound also with a nickel steel wrap. Acoustic guitars use a brass, bronze or phosphor bronze wrap. Plain strings top out at about 17 to 18 thou in the popular string sets, so it is what you will mostly find. Persuade them to change strings by sets - much better for the guitar and for the sound. These should be changed every 6 months at least for hobby players (more frequent for pros) unless you are a skinflint like me and use Elixir coated strings!

[James Harrison]

The new project:  1/600 HMS Dreadnought. 

Beginning as a 1/700 papermodel download (available completely free!), I took the sheets of components into Photoshop and scaled them up by around 13% to 1/600 scale.  I then printed the sheets out and laminated them to 0.5mm plastic sheet using impact adhesive. 

I do recall building a WW1-era 1/600 dreadnaught many moons ago during my warship kit building days... Airfix HMS Iron Duke maybe?? I don't know how close Iron Duke would be to HMS Dreadnought though, or whether any parts would be common (turrets and some fittings perhaps). 

I've got the Iron Duke; builds up into quite a nice model. 

I've heard of a conversion of two Iron Dukes into an Agincourt, but I can't find the article anywhere online... whilst trying to convert an Iron Duke into Dreadnought would practically be an exercise in scratchbuilding.  Whilst the turrets look similar, the guns themselves are too large, the hull would be about 2'' too long, the foredeck would need some quite major alterations and the funnels, mast, cranes and the like would all have to go. 

There's no real reason however why she couldn't be converted to one of the other 13.5'' superdreadnoughts such as the Orion or King George V classes... I'm going to end up giving it a go, aren't I?   

[James Harrison]

Bit of an interlude... no, Dreadnought hasn't been completed that quickly (I'm holding fire a little while and waiting for an affordable copy of Anatomy of the Ship: HMS Dreadnought to come up on ebay). 

Meantime; I've jumped forward a few projects and done a little work on the C4. 
This is where things get a little complicated....

A few months ago a certain Mr. de Vapeur (of this parish) was kind enough to gift me a pair of old Triang locos for a couple of projects I had in mind.  One was a 4-4-0, which, it is planned, will donate it's chassis for my D10 'Director'.  The other was the old Triang B12, which I was planning on converting into a B2 'Sam Fay'. 

Unfortunately, it transpired that not only could I not find a set of drawings for that particular engine, but also the chassis wouldn't have quite worked under it (wheel spacings being wrong).  The only GCR 4-6-0 that it could have been converted to, had outside motion and again, I couldn't find a set of drawings for it. 

What I did have a drawing of was a GCR 'Jersey Lily'.  The wheels matched up but there were two problems: firstly that a Jersey Lily was a 4-4-2 and not a 4-6-0; secondly again we run into the problem of outside versus inside motion.  The brain kicked into gear...

...

I began looking at the drawing and comparing various bits of it with various bits of other locos.  Eventually I found that the main connecting rods matched up pretty well with those off of the Hornby B17, so I bought some from a spares dealer (and bought a B17 cylinder block at the same time), and a pair of insulators for the B12 axles. 

Now we get into what, for me at least, passes as heavy engineering.  I was able to unscrew the coupling rods on the B12 chassis and put them to one side, then gently prised one of the wheels off of the rear axle and slipped the axle out of the chassis.  The plan at this point was to 'simply' swap the wheel treads off of the rear axle onto the centre axle.  Unfortunately the wheels on the centre axle are marginally larger than those on the outside axles (by exactly twice the tickness of the treads) so that idea didn't work.  So I gently prised a wheel off of the centre axle, and removed the centre axle. 

So now we have one axle with treads but lacks the screw threads to hold the coupling rods in place and one axle with the necessary screw threads but which can't take the necessary wheel treads. 

Fortunately the screw threads are separate from the wheel, and can be pushed out with a screwdriver.  We now have to take those screw threads and put them into the rear wheels.  We then take that rear axle and put it through the centre axle hole in the chassis; making it a 4-4-0. 

The connecting rods are still for a 4-6-0; so those have to be cut down.  I did this with an angle grinder attachment on the dremel.  We now have, therefore, a 4-4-0 chassis with connecting rods, but for an inside cylinder engine.  How to do the outside motion?

This is where the B17 spares come in!  A quick glance will show that the motion on a B17 is completely different to that on a C4; but this can be dealt with.  What we are looking to keep is the piston itself, the motion bracket above that, the joint between piston and connecting rod and the connecting rod itself.  What we don't need is all the gubbins above and below that.  I simply removed this using a pair of wire cutters and brute force. 

Then, very carefully, take the motion bracket and secure them into the cylinder block, along with the pistons.  Use the screw from the B12 connecting rod to hold the big end of the B17 rods in place and press the B17 cylinder firmly into a small hole on the B12 front plate. 

And it's done!  Now, just to tackle the trailing axle... which I have yet to actually buy.       

[Athanor]

The plain strings, ie not the ones with another wire wrapped around the core are usually made of a nickel steel. It has to contain steel in order to be magnetised so that it will work with electric pickups. For electric guitars, wound strings (usually strings 4,5 and 6) are wound also with a nickel steel wrap. Acoustic guitars use a brass, bronze or phosphor bronze wrap. Plain strings top out at about 17 to 18 thou in the popular string sets, so it is what you will mostly find. Persuade them to change strings by sets - much better for the guitar and for the sound. These should be changed every 6 months at least for hobby players (more frequent for pros) unless you are a skinflint like me and use Elixir coated strings!

Those wrapped strings make very nice 4mm scale vacuum, air brake and train heating hoses.

Athanor.

[Mécanicien de Vapeur]

Those wrapped strings make very nice 4mm scale vacuum, air brake and train heating hoses.

Athanor.

Vac and steam bags yes, as these were thicker and reinforced with a spiral of metal rod, giving the ridged appearance.

Air bags, no - these are generally thinner and not reinforced. For air pipes, I use thin, single core electrical wire, stripped of the insulation. Crimp 2mm of one end flat with pliers to make the 'glad hand' connector, At the other end, cut to length (allowing for a spigot to go into the buffer beam) and bend, then glue a short (3mm) section of 10 thou x 10thou microrod to make the angle cock. Paint the pipe black/angle cock yellow/red/white as required  and install. Robust, cheap and easy to do. I tend to make a batch of 20-30 up at a time, various lengths and thicknesses.

[James Harrison]

I do need to replace the vacuum pipes on the J11; I used some 0.025'' brass wire, which is far too thin.  Just waiting for a guitar string to break.... [rantatbrotherandfather] c'mon you muppets, play yer d*mned guitars![/endrantatbrotherandfather]

[James Harrison]

With work on the Dreadnought and the C4 now stopped and awaiting either reference material or parts, I started work on the D10.  This is a loco I've wanted for a long time.... a very long time.  I'm trying this time for a more 'refined' finished piece. 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I began with an old triang L1 chassis kindly gifted to me by Mr de Vapeur.  The only alteration I've made to it has been to remove the smoke generator, with the aid of a service sheet I found online. 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I then used my standard method to build the running plate; that is, a lamination of 0.5mm plastic.  This is a more complicated component thatn those in my N5 and J11, as I shall describe later. 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I added a further lamination of plastic and a piece of balsa at the back of the plate in order to be able to fix it to the L1's tender hook; the D10 is slightly longer and the L1 tender hook ends up somewhere underneath the back of the cab. 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

At this point I placed the plate on the chassis to check for clearances and tolerances.  The plate needs some filing down to allow the coupling rods to clear, and shows a tendancy to travel on an arc at the front. 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

The D10 running plate is curved; I prefer making running plates straight for strength.  One night I found that the top of the frames below the plate co-incide with the bottom of the frames above the plate, which simplified matters.  I simply cut the frames as three pieces to each side; and attached them below the plate and front and back and above the plate in the middle.  Quite a convincing subterfuge, I think. 

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

 

The current state of play.  I've added a couple of pieces of plastic off-cut into the front corners of the chassis cut-out to engage with the metal bar at the front of the chassis and limit the amount of side play; I'm also filing down, very slowly and carefully, the insides of the cut-out to allow for the coupling rods.  Next step will be to add a paper laminate over the plastic substrate to give a uniform surface for finishing. 

[James Harrison]

Five minutes' work with a dremel last night and we have a boiler....

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Hang on a minute, what does it look like?

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

[James Harrison]

Some more work done on it last night:

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I started the frames and smokebox saddle.  Sides were made of 0.5mm plastic, with a spacer of 1mm plastic sheet.  This was then glued into position on the running plate.  To prevent it bowing (and to hint at where my thinking is heading right now) I also added some balsa wood spacers either side of what was once the smoke generator holder.  This, incidentally, pierces the bottom of the smokebox...

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Overall view of the model, with boiler in place.  The running plate over the lower splashers is a piece of paper... above this the upper splashers have to be fitted.  The chimney and dome came off of the L1; I did have a go at making these parts from scratch but they didn't look too convincing, whilst the L1 chimney, when turned down a little, is ideal.  I did consider using them as masters to produce moulds to make my own, and indeed would have done so if the dome and chimney on the C4 were identical; but sadly they aren't, so I don't particularly see the point of making more work for myself.  If I can find a drawing of one of the GCR 4-6-0s, I might go down this route.