The Steampunk Forum at Brass Goggles
February 17, 2020, 03:05:34 am *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News: Support BrassGoggles! Donate once or $3/mo.
 See details here.
   Home   Blog Help Rules Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Author Topic: How to sew a leather cylinder  (Read 5283 times)
Just call me Rob
Zeppelin Admiral
United Kingdom United Kingdom

Captain: RD Susurrus

« on: April 30, 2011, 03:11:41 pm »

I need some advice please.
I'm making a leather cylinder, it's quite thick leather and I want the two edge to but up to each other.

The problem I have is that I can't see a way bring the thread back out from the inside of the cylinder.
I guess a curved needle would do the job, but is there a trick to getting the needle out of a pre-made hole?

Be vewy vewy quiet, I'm hunting aiw kwacken.
Lady Ashgrove
Zeppelin Captain
United States United States

« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2011, 04:00:56 pm »

don't know if it will work

but can you stitch the thing really loose and then pull the theads tight like a corset?
Major Willoughby Chase
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2011, 04:49:19 pm »

I've always found pre-made holes is the way forward with thick leather.  Use a nice long, thick thread, criss cross it down and then tighten  take up the slack slowly bringing the edges together.

Captain Shipton Bellinger
Master Tinkerer
United Kingdom United Kingdom

Why the goggles..? In case of ADVENTURE!

« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2011, 07:37:13 am »

You need to be using a tunnel stitch to the butt two edges together.

The basic idea is:

1. Mark the positions of the stiches with an over-stitcher, prick-wheel or WHY. Make sure that they line up across the seam.
2. Use a curved awl to make the holes. Go in through the face of the leather and come out at the edge to be butted.
3. Lay the two edges together over a cylindrical former (I have found that a piece of 2 1/2" bannister rail works quite well).
4. To get started you might find it useful to 'fix' the two edges so that the holes line up. A couple of pieces of masking tape, or something else that won't mark the leather, across the join works quite well.
5. Use a pair of harnessing needles to join the edges with a bog-standard saddle stitch, BUT instead of going through the whole thickness of the leather, the needles go in through the face, out of the edge, into the opposite edge and out the opposite face.
6. Repeat the stitch until seam is complete.

Depending on your personal likes/dislikes you can either criss-cross the visible part of the stitches across the seam, or run them parallel to it.

As you're making a cylinder you have no choice but to work from the outside, so the stitches are visible, but if you were joining two separate sheets you can use a tunnel stitch on the inside face and make the seam almost invivible.

Hope this helps.

PS I have no connection with Bowstock Leather other than being a satisfied repeat customer.

« Last Edit: May 01, 2011, 07:42:52 am by Captain Shipton Bellinger » Logged

Capt. Shipton Bellinger R.A.M.E. (rtd)

Pages: [1]   Go Up
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.058 seconds with 17 queries.