A Collective Thread for All Them Guns Pt. II

[von Corax]

Mr. West, the essence of Steampunk is absurdity in the details. Were that my pistol, I would do nothing more than add a full-length brass tube sight (not sure of the correct term — it's the type that looks like a 'scope but has no internal optics.)

[Herbert West]

Mr. West, the essence of Steampunk is absurdity in the details. Were that my pistol, I would do nothing more than add a full-length brass tube sight (not sure of the correct term — it's the type that looks like a 'scope but has no internal optics.)

Point taken. I guess the only difficult would be how to dress the tube up so it blends in with the rest of the weapon. My thanks sir!

[Angus A Fitziron]

Mr. West, the essence of Steampunk is absurdity in the details. Were that my pistol, I would do nothing more than add a full-length brass tube sight (not sure of the correct term — it's the type that looks like a 'scope but has no internal optics.)

Point taken. I guess the only difficult would be how to dress the tube up so it blends in with the rest of the weapon. My thanks sir!

My only thought on that is that the gun has a patina applied to it which has then been polished off in places to give the impression of age. An addional brass tube will start off different colours but I think if you try to patinate the brass to match the ageing of the pistol then they might start to blend together. There is a chemical that blackens brass and bronze alloys, I've used it on stained glass beading but can't remember what it is - copper something??
Once patinated you can then polish the brass at points where it would have worn and rubbed so that the lighter metal shows through. In my minds eye that should help the brass and pot metal blend in.

For some reason, the trigger guard does not quite look right either, doesn't quite flow on an otherwise very pretty piece. It looks too modern, does it detach and could it be replaced with a brass piece and similarly aged?

Otherwise, very nice - where did you get it (although I suspect they don't exist this side of the pond!) That said I'm off to Bavaria in August and I remember a very fierce display of flintlocks, swords, maces, armour and shields etc in a shop in Rüdesheim I think, and I'm going by train, so...

[Will Howard]

 There is a chemical that blackens brass and bronze alloys, I've used it on stained glass beading but can't remember what it is - copper something??

[/quote]

Liver of sulphur is used by jewellers to blacken silver- might work on copper or brass as well.

[Will Howard]

Look up liver of sulphur (sulfur) on Wikipedia.  It will give a brown to black finish to copper alloys.

[Story]

My only thought on that is that the gun has a patina applied to it which has then been polished off in places to give the impression of age. An addional brass tube will start off different colours but I think if you try to patinate the brass to match the ageing of the pistol then they might start to blend together.  

This won't help Herb but if you want to deliberately tarnish and 'age' real brass, urine works.  Find something like a kitty litter sealable pail, go through a case of beer and then let nature do your work for ya.
  

[CoastConFan]

Birchwood Casey (in USA) makes a number of finishing and refinishing items for wood and metal.  Iron and steel can be aged using their Plum Brown product, which is used to brown (as in Brown Bess) iron furniture, especially barrels on muskets, both original and modern.  Mineral oil, fine machine oil and the like will stop the bright red rust from propagating or use steel wool to remove a portion to give an uneven finish.  However you must kill the rust by oiling it to keep it from being active. 

Brass can be aged using their Brass Black product.  I find that four ought (0000) steel wool is excellent for removing excessive patina in small increments.  This painters ultrafine steel wool can be found in the paint section of hardware stores.  Single ought is very course and the more the zeros, the finer the steel wool.  Liver of sulfur works pretty well, but I don’t have a supply available.  Jewelry supply houses sometimes have it.

Bleach, containing chlorine will also age metals, but I have not been happy with it dicey results.  You are better off using commercial agents like those sold by Birchwood Casey and the like.  They are consistent and predictable.  No I don’t have stock in the company, but have used them for about 20 years in aging and patinating metal.

[Uncle Arthur]

When I was building muzzle loaders I used Birchwood Casey products exclusively after experimenting with a huge amount of home brewed ideas. I recommend them highly.

[Der_Doktor]

2 more in progress..  both Nerf repaints... but not Mavericks for a change..

Interestingly.. the revolver looking one started life as a SuperSoaker.  The "Nerf" logo will be filled in..  this was my first attempt with "rub n buff"..

Also that clock work mechanism does work. The winding key sticks out the other side..  it just spins.. doesn't do anything else but it adds a nice dynamic me thinks.  More bits n bobs to be added soon.





This other one is also in progress.  There's some nasty orange plastic peeking thru on that trigger where it scrapes.  Might have to thin the trigger somewhat to prevent that.  That pinkish area on the "wooden" frame down low in front is actually copper tape.. (Stained glass window edging.. look into it.. great stuff for some added color..  just looks bad under this lamp)

Also that "dial" on the rear is actually a Craft shop clock face.  came in a packet of 6 to choose from at a Hobby Lobby.  In this incarnation that is the guns setting.. "12" being "incinerate and "1" being "annoying tickle".



Thoughts and your input please and thank you.

-Der_Doktor  (not Herr)

[Otto Von Pifka]

i like the red oxide and brass colors on the nerf, nice combo.

mr. west, I would consider steaming up the ram rod if it comes out at all or at least can be gotten to. a stack of washers between the front knob end and the support sleeve could look like a raygun heatsink/fin arrangement. alternate bigger and smaller outside diameter washers (that will still fit under the barrel) and if possible, use brass and steel washers so the color alternates too. the section of rod behind the front support and the front of the stock could have a long spring slid over it so it looks sort of coil wound. either bend one by hand from heavy copper or brass wire or locate a steel spring to fit.

[Lt. Thomas Corvidae]

Look up liver of sulphur (sulfur) on Wikipedia.  It will give a brown to black finish to copper alloys.

And, is very easy to acquire. Amazon.com has it in many different quantities.

[Marshal Moustache]

In a fit of gross unoriginality I thought I would post some pictures of the Nerf Maverick I have prettied up a bit for this year's Asylum.

This is the Williams & Fern, Air Kraken Gatling Pistol. It's my first try but I must admit that I’m actually quite happy with it, and it still works too.

I have, however, now 'got the bug' and have already ordered two different Nerf Vortexes as my next projects, even though I haven't yet finished the holster for this one.

[Der_Doktor]

Very nice..  What's the Octo made of?

Der_Doktor (not Herr)

[Marshal Moustache]

Very nice..  What's the Octo made of?

Der_Doktor (not Herr)

Thank you. Glad you like it.

The aeronautical cephalopod is mostly made out of Milliput. The wings were originally intended for use in jewellery making.

[theador]

hi all iam currently building a one handed flamethrower but iam unsure if it needs something or could lose something the gold will be painted brass coloured any suggestions will be helpful by the way i am new to steampunk so this is my first build so i am trying to keep it simple
cheers

[theador]

here the link
http://s1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh632/nvan17289/

[Parintachin]

My first 2 attempts at Steampunk weapons, don't know if they actually count as steampunk.......you decide




After that I bought a Nerf Maverick (who doesn't?) and tried my hand at that one

[Parintachin]

Some more detail pictures : http://s102.photobucket.com/albums/m88/parintachins-firebike/steampunk/?albumview=slideshow

[Colonel Falchion]

Parintachin, I think the first two guns put me in mind of issued weapons like those issued by an armory to a nation's armed forces.  As to whether they count as steampunk, I don't think the question is so much "is it steampunk", rather can you answer how would it work and what would it fire?  That to me would make it steampunk.

I'm also curious how you did the scrollwork on the maverick?  Did you use 3d paint, or actual metal scrollwork pieces?

[Parintachin]

I didn't think about the working, really   But some "idea" I had was that you fill with water, getting this into super-heated steam and firing a plasma.

The scroll work is part metal and part sticky back paper lace painted in copper (the trim at the top and bottom of the drum).

[elvisroe]

Paper lace! I like it - never thought of that!

[elvisroe]

Good day chaps, I'm looking to paint my first gun this weekend, a Nerf Maverick, I see a few others have painted this particular model with great success and was wondering which paint I should use and where i could get it ( In Australia) . I hear that Krylon is good, unfortunately from what I can gather it is not sold in Australia, if anyone could shed some light on this it would be greatly appreciated.

Hey NF - you're probably well into painting by now but I thought I'd offer a tip or 2..

Painting plastic is always tricky and if you plan to handle your pieces much you'll no doubt need to do touch ups along the way.

Preperation is the key. Give all surfaces a light sanding and make sure you give all the seams and text a good going over.  Next apply a coat of some sort of primer. I use penetrol which you can get from bunnings. It's a super fine oil like wd40 and will fill all the tiny cracks and scratches and help the paint bond.

For the paint itself I use quality spray paint. Start with a light undercoat of black then mask off the various bits and pieces with a not too sticky masking tape and apply several light coats.  If you go out too hard you'll get drips which can really mess up your surface. Also be careful not to spray too much into the workings...for obvious reasons!  Some modders like to take their guns apart, and clearly this is ideal, but you could seriously @&$? up a perfectly good gun and I also find the seams generally become more visible.

for a great gun-barrel blued look I use a chrome spray followed immediately by a satin finish black.  The 2 colours bleed together for a great shine.

Once your base colours are done you can get into your detailing and dry brushing to give it a more lived in metallic look. For this I simply use metallic acrylics from Spotlight.  They also sell a wax based product called rub-and-buff that is well worth getting your hands on!  A tiny bit on the finger applied to key edges gives a great worn metalic look!
 
Finally seal the deal with some sort of clear coat!

If you're really hard core and have some cash Check out the Barnes stores in your nearest capitol city.

http://www.barnes.com.au/catalog/

You can get all you movie making special effects gear including some amazing paints that will give you real metallic patinas and oxidisation. Awesome store but a major money pit!

have fun!
 

[D.Oakes]

Noticed a cap gun at the local 7/11 a few weeks back.  It just had this really odd look that was begging to be painted to kill the ugly yellow, blue, and red....well....last night, quite intoxicated, I decided to purchase it.  Today, during my one day of rest, I painted it up: 

[Aleister Crow]

Noticed a cap gun at the local 7/11 a few weeks back.  It just had this really odd look that was begging to be painted to kill the ugly yellow, blue, and red....well....last night, quite intoxicated, I decided to purchase it.  Today, during my one day of rest, I painted it up: 

Nice job. What's the brand name on that? I've been looking for that style of cap gun for a while, ever since I saw an overpriced "steampunked" version of it on Etsy.

[D.Oakes]

The Super Bang Enforcer by Jaru.