A Collective Thread for All Them Guns Pt. II

[Steam Titan]

And here's my latest piece...

Presenting Dr. Gunn's "Troll Hammer".



This custom double barreled Howdah pistol was used to great effect in the Orkney Isles during the Jotun migration of 1868. 





OK so it's really a buzzbee mod!  I trimmed the grip right back as far as I could and capped it with a piece of the original butt-plate.  The cocking string is still tucked up inside so it can still operate if required.  I also reshaped the grip to slim it down and make it more comfortable and replaced the plastic trigger guard with a brass handle.  The front is crested with a brass lion and there is a small amount of gold scrollwork on the side.  The grips are a weathered dark brown, the barrels a black/chrome mix to give it a blued look while the body shows hints of brass through the black.

The overall battered dark look witha hint of brass and small embelishment was based on a fantastic old harpoon gun at the Sydney Maratime Museum.

I was just curious how you shaped the handle down to be easier to hold and how you modified the pull string to still work with the shortened handle? I was going to mod mine but finding the pull string goes all the way back I'm left unsure how to modify it to still work and still look like a howdah

[elvisroe]

Hey ST,

I used both a dremmel and my power drill that has a sanding attatchment.  I ground it waaay back and actually left the handle with large holes in either side.  Just take care you don't puncture anything within!  I then filled the holes with a wood cement and then sanded that back when it had dried.

As for the string...
most mods you see detach the string from the main "breaking" mechanism and simply leave several inches of it hanging out of the handle to manually cock the plungers by pulling it.  However - as the shiny white paracord looks shite - my plan had been to replace the visible part with knotted leather thong and attach a brass ring to it.  In the end though I just tucked it up into a small gap in the butt-plate.  It's there if I want it but I actually prefer the prop bullets and pair of empty shells to the foam darts. 

Hope that helps - good luck!

[Steam Titan]

Hey ST,

I used both a dremmel and my power drill that has a sanding attatchment.  I ground it waaay back and actually left the handle with large holes in either side.  Just take care you don't puncture anything within!  I then filled the holes with a wood cement and then sanded that back when it had dried.

As for the string...
most mods you see detach the string from the main "breaking" mechanism and simply leave several inches of it hanging out of the handle to manually cock the plungers by pulling it.  However - as the shiny white paracord looks shite - my plan had been to replace the visible part with knotted leather thong and attach a brass ring to it.  In the end though I just tucked it up into a small gap in the butt-plate.  It's there if I want it but I actually prefer the prop bullets and pair of empty shells to the foam darts. 

Hope that helps - good luck!

cool used items I actually own save the wood cement that i can buy. yeah I like the idea of it looking more that way. I do have leather cord... i might try and rebuild it that way... or at least try

[elvisroe]

Hey all - here's a preliminary shot of my latest creation and my first ray-gun scratch-build. 


 
I was in the hardware store a few weeks back and saw a little red oil can that i thought could be easily transformed into a very industrial looking weapon.  It took me a while to find the right piece to tie it all together but I found a little red jar for the 'cylinder' that did the trick.  It needs some tweaking but I like the feel of it so far.

[elvisroe]

Here's the original for a comparison...

[Uncle Arthur]

My latest attempt at a raygun. BEHOLD!! The Prototype Peter Paul Patterson Petite Pocket Pulveriser .

[Steam Titan]

My latest attempt at a raygun. BEHOLD!! The Prototype Peter Paul Patterson Petite Pocket Pulveriser .

I like.

Also what is a good type of wood that is easy to sand and shape. I would really like to make wood handles for my guns but I dont have all the tools for working wood. I have drills a dremel with sanding attachement, sand paper, hand saws and an older jig saw. I would probably use the jig saw to make most of the basic shape of anything but would have to use the dremel and sand paper to make any details like heavy curves or such or just to round it to not be boxy but have a smooth rounded handle

[Uncle Arthur]

The handle on this one is a scrap of walnut. A nice wood to work with.

[dangerdavey]

My latest attempt at a raygun. BEHOLD!! The Prototype Peter Paul Patterson Petite Pocket Pulveriser .

Simple, yet elegant. And easily secured in a garter for the ladies, I'd wager!!

The P.P.P.P.P.P.P. is sure to be a handy bit of hardware in the skyways!

~DD/Levi P. Darkside

[Uncle Arthur]

From Patterson's notes I gather it was designed for a "lady of negotiable virtue".

[Mr Addams]

My latest attempt at a raygun. BEHOLD!! The Prototype Peter Paul Patterson Petite Pocket Pulveriser .

I like.

Also what is a good type of wood that is easy to sand and shape. I would really like to make wood handles for my guns but I dont have all the tools for working wood. I have drills a dremel with sanding attachement, sand paper, hand saws and an older jig saw. I would probably use the jig saw to make most of the basic shape of anything but would have to use the dremel and sand paper to make any details like heavy curves or such or just to round it to not be boxy but have a smooth rounded handle

A soft wood, that is the sort of thing that you can get from your local DIY shop, is easy to work, but it generally will not take a good finish.
Traditionally, Walnut or maple are used for gun stocks, and will look very nice if finished properly.
personally I like the look of pear or apple wood, it has an attractive grain, but it is not too hard to work.

I made this gun about a year ago.



As I was in a hurry, (and on a budget) I used a bit of pine that I had laying around.
because the board was too thin, I had to glue two pieces together using wood glue, this is not ideal, but as it tured out, the join is almost invisible.
First, I drew the outline of the stock onto the wood. I had an airgun stock that was almost the shape that I wanted, so I traced the basic shape, then I redrew the outline to get the shape that I wanted.
I then cut out the profile with a jigsaw.
You can use hand tools to shape the wood. Ideally, you should use a combination of a plain, a spokeshave, or a drawknife, and various rasps. But being Lazy, and in a hurry, I used a sanding disk in an angle grinder, there are various sanding heads that you can get for power drills that will do the job as well, if not better. If you use the corsest sandpaper you can find, it will cut through pine as if it were butter, so you need a fairly gentle touch, I would strongly reccomend practicing on a piece of scrap wood if you are using a power sander, to get a feel for how the disk or head that you are using behaves, if you take too much wood off, you canot put it back. Keep fitting the stock to your hand to see how it feels, and where you need to take off more wood.
for shapeing something smaller, like a pistol stock, I would use a Sureform,

and a rounded rasp,

to get the basic shape, then corse sandper to work the details. If you wrap sandpaper around a piece of wood, a bit of broomhandle for example, it is ideal for forming those little details.
Once you have the shape right, the work really starts. you need to sand the whole stock to get a smooth finish, start with corse paper, and when you have finished, move on to a slightly finer grade of paper, and so on, until you are down to the finest grade. this can take a long time, but it is worth the effort.
Finish off with a wax based wood polish.

[Delireus]

My latest attempt at a raygun. BEHOLD!! The Prototype Peter Paul Patterson Petite Pocket Pulveriser .

I like.

Also what is a good type of wood that is easy to sand and shape. I would really like to make wood handles for my guns but I dont have all the tools for working wood. I have drills a dremel with sanding attachement, sand paper, hand saws and an older jig saw. I would probably use the jig saw to make most of the basic shape of anything but would have to use the dremel and sand paper to make any details like heavy curves or such or just to round it to not be boxy but have a smooth rounded handle

A soft wood, that is the sort of thing that you can get from your local DIY shop, is easy to work, but it generally will not take a good finish.
Traditionally, Walnut or maple are used for gun stocks, and will look very nice if finished properly.
personally I like the look of pear or apple wood, it has an attractive grain, but it is not too hard to work.

I made this gun about a year ago.



As I was in a hurry, (and on a budget) I used a bit of pine that I had laying around.
because the board was too thin, I had to glue two pieces together using wood glue, this is not ideal, but as it tured out, the join is almost invisible.
First, I drew the outline of the stock onto the wood. I had an airgun stock that was almost the shape that I wanted, so I traced the basic shape, then I redrew the outline to get the shape that I wanted.
I then cut out the profile with a jigsaw.
You can use hand tools to shape the wood. Ideally, you should use a combination of a plain, a spokeshave, or a drawknife, and various rasps. But being Lazy, and in a hurry, I used a sanding disk in an angle grinder, there are various sanding heads that you can get for power drills that will do the job as well, if not better. If you use the corsest sandpaper you can find, it will cut through pine as if it were butter, so you need a fairly gentle touch, I would strongly reccomend practicing on a piece of scrap wood if you are using a power sander, to get a feel for how the disk or head that you are using behaves, if you take too much wood off, you canot put it back. Keep fitting the stock to your hand to see how it feels, and where you need to take off more wood.
for shapeing something smaller, like a pistol stock, I would use a Sureform,

and a rounded rasp,

to get the basic shape, then corse sandper to work the details. If you wrap sandpaper around a piece of wood, a bit of broomhandle for example, it is ideal for forming those little details.
Once you have the shape right, the work really starts. you need to sand the whole stock to get a smooth finish, start with corse paper, and when you have finished, move on to a slightly finer grade of paper, and so on, until you are down to the finest grade. this can take a long time, but it is worth the effort.
Finish off with a wax based wood polish.

I just made my first gun a few weeks ago for my final in a props class for theatre in college. We had to make a ray gun, extra credit if it fired anything (mine was made from a gutted cork gun) I sadly don't have photos yet, I won't for a few weeks, and it did take a turn for the worse so it looks terrible, but I made the stock by myself!

This is quite an accomplishment, as I can barely be around anything sharp in the scene shop without freaking out. I wish I had your advise before making it, Mr Addams, as I'm quite sure I could have done a much better job with it, but I used a 2x6 scrap I found in the shop (we couldn't buy anything for the class, everything had to be 'found objects') then I drew out my shape and cut it all out on a band saw, although a jig saw would work just as well, I'm sure. Then, I used a palm sander (because there is noooo way I could use anything bigger, too loud and scary) to round out the sides. That took a long time, and I still want to sand it more, but I was limited on time.

So, if I could make a stock, surely anyone can, Steam Titan! I also used EL wire and sunk the battery housing into the stock with a router, but...that did not go too well. It was great to be able to actually control my design of my gun, because before I was totally limited to plastic guns.

[Fenwick Tesla-Smythe]

I've recently painted part of this in ivory, pics to follow of that.

[Matthias Gladstone]

A touch stereotypical, but I wanted somthing that actually threw a (non-lethal) projectile:



It's a modification of one of the maverick clones hawkin's bazarre are selling at the moment - i've changed the pistol grip over, and removed part of the upper frame. Nearly finished, I just need to fill in some holes and touch up the paintwork. I've got another gun on the go at the moment as well, this time all metal, a hand-held gatling gun, but i've run out of materials and it's going to have to wait until summer.

[Will Howard]

I've recently painted part of this in ivory, pics to follow of that.

Lady Clankington's kitchen mixer?

[Mr Addams]

Then, I used a palm sander (because there is noooo way I could use anything bigger, too loud and scary) to round out the sides.

Delireus, remember that Big, Loud, Scary power tools are your friend. 

Look forward to seeing the pictures.

[maduncle]

I've recently painted part of this in ivory, pics to follow of that.

Lady Clankington's kitchen mixer?

Wait 'till you see the turkey baster model.

[Herr Döktor]

I've recently painted part of this in ivory, pics to follow of that.

Lady Clankington's kitchen mixer?

Wait 'till you see the turkey baster model.

The Master Baster?

[maduncle]

I've recently painted part of this in ivory, pics to follow of that.

Lady Clankington's kitchen mixer?

Wait 'till you see the turkey baster model.

The Master Baster?

(Note to self - never open one of Herr Döktor's replies with a mouth full of coffee).

[Captain]

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=267341656  Fake blunderbuss with lots of brass for $55.00.  Looks like an easy project but I do not need one.

[spirit of the west]

Here's a ladies pistol and cross draw belt/holster rig I just finished.

   

The adjustment buckle is in the back and there is snaps on each side of the front buckle for convenience.

~SOTW~

[Steam Titan]

Here's a ladies pistol and cross draw belt/holster rig I just finished.

   

The adjustment buckle is in the back and there is snaps on each side of the front buckle for convenience.

~SOTW~

those are gorgeous

[dangerdavey]

Here's a ladies pistol and cross draw belt/holster rig I just finished.

   

The adjustment buckle is in the back and there is snaps on each side of the front buckle for convenience.

~SOTW~

I "second" Steam Titan's opinion!! Gorgeous work!

~DD/Levi P. Darkside

[Dr cornelius quack]

Astrogator MkIV (WIP)



Getting to the point now where it's all wood and metal and resin in proper  moulded components.
Anything that looks like Copper or Brass is Copper or Brass.
Next step is to make the grip into a unified section as a single piece resin cast-able form and take a decent silicon mould.

[Fenwick Tesla-Smythe]

I've recently painted part of this in ivory, pics to follow of that.

Lady Clankington's kitchen mixer?

Wait 'till you see the turkey baster model.

The Master Baster?

Interesting ideas.   I suppose this weapon could be said to fill a hole in the market.