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Ginny Blundy
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« Reply #150 on: August 04, 2011, 06:31:47 pm » |
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Here's a gun I've just recently finished. It's not so much Steampunked by itself, but I made it as an accessory to a post-apocalyptic Steampunk outfit. This is my first attempt at modding a toy gun.  Do you mind my asking what you used for the filigree on the barrel? I'd like to shamelessly rip it off. It's a sticker. I found these in a local craft store along with scrapbooking supplies - you may also find it with DIY wedding invitation materials. These little foil stickers are cut perfectly around the design, so that you don't get any unwanted bits to trim away. They also stick really well - I have those on without any added glue and they are firmly attached. I think as long as I keep it out of extreme temperatures, I won't need to worry over them falling off. To go along with the rough look of the gun, I dabbed some black acrylic paint over the sticker with a paper towel and then dabbed a lot of it back off with a damp paper towel. |
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Oh, you are beautiful! No really, you are, you're gorgeous! Space-age clockwork, I love it, I've got chills! Listen, I mean this from the heart - and by the way, count those - it would be a crime, it would be an act of vandalism to disassemble you.
But that won't stop me.
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Ginny Blundy
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« Reply #151 on: August 04, 2011, 06:37:47 pm » |
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ms. blundy, yes it is an epoxy putty called apoxie sculpt. http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=13&Itemid=4a bit expensive but great to work with. there are a few slightly different versions of it. the sculpt can be a bit too soft and sticky to work, especially in this heat, but all their putties are great to work with. you have plenty of time after mixing it to work it, and it sets up pretty hard and sticks reasonably well if you sand the surface of whatever you are building up first. what's really nice about it is that you can smooth it with a wet finger or implement before it sets up. that can eliminate most or all sanding and grinding. you can add it to just about any surface and if it should pop off, you can just reglue it with regular epoxy. I finally broke down and bought the mega tub for $50 bucks, but I tend to go through it pretty fast. the shelf life is iffy as the tub lids aren't all that tight. the little containers have screw on lids and hold up longer. I can't remember which part is the one that always goes bad first, it just slowly gets firmer until it won't mix with the other part well. as long as the containers aren't old to begin with, you can get over a year shelf life after its been opened as long as you don't leave them open too long and store them in a cool dry place with the lids good and tight. I LOVE the stuff, It's replaced almost everything else I used to use. the apoxie sculpt and apoxie clay are very similar and so are the fixit versions, they all work very similar, I forget which are less sticky while working it. the apoxie and fixit pastes are runny like a regular epoxy or like JB weld, and are of less use. only thing I use it for is self leveling fill and glue needs. Ah yes, Apoxie has been recommended to me before. I haven't been able to find it locally, which is annoying. I could certainly buy it online but I tend to want epoxy right now when I want it, without waiting for shipping. I work with Loctite epoxy putty which is ok basically and better than other epoxies I've tried, but I'm always on the lookout for better materials. The heat has been a major setback recently, no doubt. I dislike the stickiness of epoxy during this weather because it prevents me from smoothing it out nicely, which means more sanding. Boo!  |
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Orcon Windar
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« Reply #152 on: August 05, 2011, 05:17:52 am » |
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Thanks! I'll start work right away.
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D.Oakes
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« Reply #153 on: August 06, 2011, 06:35:04 am » |
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Triton
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« Reply #154 on: August 07, 2011, 11:41:03 pm » |
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now, is that a real C96 (or less likely m712) or just a prop pistol?  love those guns as well. how is this for a pair of somewhat steampunk-y guns. before anybody asks; the shotgun has been rendered inoperative (firing pin removed, firing pin hole welded and barrel plugged) but used to be a very much real, and very badly abused HSB Cruso 12 gauge shotgun, future plans for it include making a walnut pistol grip to match the foregrip and mounting it in a display case with some paper cartridges. the other gun pictured is my equally abused wwii bringback tt33 tokarev. My grandfather brought it back and it was unfortunately damaged in a small fire in the 50s and ended up being used as a toy gun by my dad growing up. then getting put away in a drawer until my grandmother gave it to me a few years ago, i cleaned it up as much as possible and got a magazine and spring kit for it, i wont fire it for safety reasons, but with a new firing pin i have little doubt that it would function! |
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« Last Edit: August 08, 2011, 12:35:48 am by Triton »
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D.Oakes
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« Reply #155 on: August 07, 2011, 11:43:55 pm » |
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now, is that a real C96 (or less likely m712) or just a prop pistol? love those guns as well. how is this for a pair of somewhat steampunk-y guns. before anybody asks; the shotgun has been rendered inoperative (firing pin removed, firing pin hole welded and barrel plugged) but used to be a very much real, and very badly abused HSB Cruso 12 gauge shotgun, future plans for it include making a walnut pistol grip to match the foregrip and mounting it in a display case with some paper cartridges. the other gun pictured is my equally abused wwii bringback tt33 tokarev, my grandfather brought it back and it was unfortunately damaged in a small fire in the 50s and ended up being used as a toy gun by my dad growing up then getting put away in a drawer until my grandmother gave it to me a few years ago and i cleaned it up as much as possible and got a magazine and spring kit for it, i wont fire it for safety reasons, but with a new firing pin i have little doubt that it would function! (The Beligian Mauser at my feet is real and still functional.) I mean this in the best way, that is the absolute UGLIEST TT33 I have ever seen. It is a shame what it went through, but it is great! |
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Triton
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« Reply #156 on: August 08, 2011, 01:04:01 am » |
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after i got it all cleaned up and resprung it actually operates VERY slickly, the slide is a little loose as you might expect. someday i hope to get it examined by a proper gunsmith and have it tested (metallurgically and otherwise) and if it passes and is determined to be safe to shoot i shall put some grips on it and shoot it! but not very much, i'd rather get a like new polish one from the 50s for ~225$ and shoot the heck out of it instead! and this isnt exactly steampunk, but it is from 1938 and is one of my favorite guns  mosin nagant 91-30 tula arsenal 1938 date of manufacture, arsenal refurbished with a birchwood stock, i stripped off all the nasty cosmoline and varnish and did a boiled linseed oil finish. floated barrel and bedded receiver and someday a POSP scope! |
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akumabito
Immortal
 Netherlands
Mundus Patria Nostra!
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« Reply #158 on: August 08, 2011, 05:56:26 pm » |
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For the money, I'm not that impressed actually.. Sure looks like fun to shoot, but it isn't very pretty at all, and power-wise you can get comparable punch for less money. I'd much prefer a Quackenbush air rifle. I have one in .308 on my wishlist.. haven't found an opportunity to order one in over three years though.. he always seems to be booked solid! |
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Triton
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« Reply #159 on: August 09, 2011, 02:17:10 am » |
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Beautiful Mosin Nagant. It is essentially an M1891 Dragoon rifle which meerly had its sights updated. So even though it is 1938, it is still quite Victorian. Although if my eyes are not deceiving me you have the round receiver as oppose to the hexagon one. That takes off authenticity points. I'm kidding. www.ostfront.com usually carries the "proper" early pouches and bayonet scabards for those. I broke down and bought one the other year, the quality is well worth it. actually at an auction yesterday there was an SA stamped (finn capture) hex receiver m91 that sold for iirc around 400 dollars, as well as some chilean m1895 mausers (a carbine and rifle) and a replica sharps .45-70. in a similar vein, here is my dads M1889 springfield trapdoor  wish i had a better picture, this one does NOT do this gun justice, its 120+ years old and while the bluing is a little thin in places is still very very good for its age condition wise. its probably been shot less than 50 times since its been in my families possession, some 4 generations |
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Thorinis
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« Reply #160 on: August 09, 2011, 02:58:38 am » |
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Ladies and Gents I present my first mod from a Nerf Recon "The Regulator" Built for the former US Scout turned Bounty Hunter in the Weird West.  |
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« Last Edit: August 09, 2011, 03:01:30 am by Thorinis »
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He who cannot adapt to what is around him is destined to be devoured by it.
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Lucius Baxter
Gunner
 England
Yeah, I've been inside a firebox... what of it?
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« Reply #161 on: August 10, 2011, 01:05:07 pm » |
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Something I've recently finished -- John H. Watson's service revolver, with box. Based on a dollar-store cap gun.   Oh, good...I....Wow...Wow...WOW! How did you....Wow. I have to do this now. This is just priceless. Great job. |
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Intrepid Vampire Slayer and Inter-Dimensional man of Mystery
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C20710
Deck Hand
 Canada
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« Reply #162 on: August 11, 2011, 03:01:08 am » |
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Zthroo
Officer
 United States
Lt. Paulus Heckenschutze at your service.
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« Reply #163 on: August 11, 2011, 04:17:39 am » |
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Very nice C20710!
I particularly like the pulley with the woven wire on it. Also the removal of the nerf logo was well done.
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Apparatus intemporaliter verto
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C20710
Deck Hand
Canada
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« Reply #164 on: August 12, 2011, 03:55:17 am » |
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I was fortunate enough to have a garage full of power tools to borrow, making the removal of logos and filing down parts a breeze with the belt sander. The owner, my father, just got back today actually. Turns out those four small metal nubs on the lower frame under the cylinder are expensive wiring ports for an MG sports car...three months shipping time from the UK. (Then I was like "would now be a bad time to mention I built two of them"? It was).
LIVE AND LEARN.
The pulley is actually a sewing bobbin for an industrial sewing machine, like...the kind you'd use for sewing canvas for an MG cover. Hah. All the wrapped wires I made myself using a power drill to turn a core wire and guiding the wire I wanted to wrap around it between my thumb and index finger. The one on the bobbin was two copper wires spun together into one, and then I took that one and spun it with a single brass wire. I guess it would be like some sort of electromagnet? Maybe?
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Zthroo
Officer
United States
Lt. Paulus Heckenschutze at your service.
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« Reply #165 on: August 12, 2011, 04:04:43 am » |
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Or maybe it's involved mechanically with arming the gun? Or part of the firing mechanism? It's up to you.
My complements on the ingenious use of a power drill.
(and my condolences on inadvertently using the expensive bits)
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elvisroe
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« Reply #166 on: August 12, 2011, 08:21:46 am » |
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Just thought I'd share this great promotional image from a new Aussie bushranger drama...  All of a sudden I'm very keen to steam up a pepperbox! |
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Deck5
Deck Hand
Canada
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« Reply #167 on: August 13, 2011, 08:54:08 pm » |
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Something I've recently finished -- John H. Watson's service revolver, with box. Based on a dollar-store cap gun. Oh, good...I....Wow...Wow...WOW! How did you....Wow. I have to do this now. This is just priceless. Great job. Thanks! If there's anything I can tell you that might help, let me know. |
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Gunslinger67
Gunner
United States
Guerrilla Machinist
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« Reply #168 on: August 20, 2011, 03:01:04 pm » |
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after i got it all cleaned up and resprung it actually operates VERY slickly, the slide is a little loose as you might expect. someday i hope to get it examined by a proper gunsmith and have it tested (metallurgically and otherwise) and if it passes and is determined to be safe to shoot i shall put some grips on it and shoot it! but not very much, i'd rather get a like new polish one from the 50s for ~225$ and shoot the heck out of it instead! and this isnt exactly steampunk, but it is from 1938 and is one of my favorite guns mosin nagant 91-30 tula arsenal 1938 date of manufacture, arsenal refurbished with a birchwood stock, i stripped off all the nasty cosmoline and varnish and did a boiled linseed oil finish. floated barrel and bedded receiver and someday a POSP scope! Very nice . I've a couple Mosins I've been meaning to play with more often . 54R ammo is quite reasonable too .( I need to stock up on it before it dries up ) ETA: Funny , I just hooked up with a guy that's selling me 1320 rds on Tuesday , for $180 ! WOOT!! |
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« Last Edit: August 20, 2011, 07:46:11 pm by Gunslinger67 »
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.....and the road becomes my bride .
Μολὼν λαβέ
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D.Oakes
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« Reply #169 on: August 21, 2011, 04:59:59 am » |
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I got one of my friends into steampunk...now he is getting his other friends into steampunk...so we just HAD to go junk shopping today. I found an old flashlight and a busted up radio. I have been wanting a blunderbuss, so I made one. It is a work in progress, but as is I still like it enough to post it. The backstory is that this coil gun blunderbuss was acquired after an unsuccessful attack by Barbary Coast Airship Pirates. When I realized the wiring and the trigger guard had that Middle East/Asian matchlock look about it, I had to have that backstory and an excuse to use blue fabric.  The business end: The lock, selector switch, and trigger: |
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« Last Edit: August 21, 2011, 06:08:59 am by D.Oakes »
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D.Oakes
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« Reply #170 on: August 22, 2011, 08:16:03 am » |
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After completing what I could today of my friend's tophat and monocle, I decided to return to working on my coil gun blunderbuss. I didn't like the blue fabric of course and I decided to age the barrel a lot more. I had gotten some leather in the trade for doing the top hat, so it came in very handy. Here it is the final result:  |
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #171 on: August 23, 2011, 09:05:40 am » |
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ooh I like the leather much better, shows off the flash body better too. needs something where the reflector was, something to busy it up. or maybe a bit of charred look to the inside?
I have used old spoon handles for trigger guards, they work nicely.
just hit the thrift store or a resale shop and look for a big orphaned fancy spoon or other piece.
I just drill a small countersunk hole in the big part of the handle end and cut off the working end right where the handle is skinniest. I bend the first quarter to half inch of the skinny end so that it will go into a hole in the stock and retain that end. I angle the hole in the wood a bit so the tip sort of hooks a little. the curve you can work into the spoon by forcing it around some water pipe or anything sturdy and round. then its just a matter of tweaking the shape to the gun and spotting then drilling a start hole in the stock for the fat part to hold fast. you can even curve the fat end of the spoon to make a bit of a finger stop and drill the hole further forward on the handle.
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D.Oakes
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« Reply #172 on: August 23, 2011, 10:14:35 am » |
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ooh I like the leather much better, shows off the flash body better too. needs something where the reflector was, something to busy it up. or maybe a bit of charred look to the inside?
I have used old spoon handles for trigger guards, they work nicely.
just hit the thrift store or a resale shop and look for a big orphaned fancy spoon or other piece.
I just drill a small countersunk hole in the big part of the handle end and cut off the working end right where the handle is skinniest. I bend the first quarter to half inch of the skinny end so that it will go into a hole in the stock and retain that end. I angle the hole in the wood a bit so the tip sort of hooks a little. the curve you can work into the spoon by forcing it around some water pipe or anything sturdy and round. then its just a matter of tweaking the shape to the gun and spotting then drilling a start hole in the stock for the fat part to hold fast. you can even curve the fat end of the spoon to make a bit of a finger stop and drill the hole further forward on the handle.
You know the spoon idea is awesome and I have a ton of miss-matched spoons that would be perfect. The trigger guard I have now is probably the one I am going to stick with, given that the wood started cracking when I was working on attaching the swivel. (hence the wire visible in the image before the leather was added) It is from a cap gun I got when I was little kid, so figure I am 23 and it was not exactly the most expensive thing then and actually was once part of an early steampunk gun project when I first started looking into it. I'm lucky the wood has lasted this long without cracking. I'm not sure if you saw the picture of the interior view of the barrel the spring in place is actually from the opposite end of the gun, originally for the battery and stretched a bit. I was considering charring it up a bit until the science part of science fiction took over at which point I asked myself, "Why would a coil gun have char?"  I'm bad at math, but I love theoretical science with a passion. The college I went to for Humanities is very pro-Science and us art people were underfunded by the college and poorly treated by the other disciplines. It was a matter of survival to have some science interest and be able to hold your ground. |
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elvisroe
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« Reply #174 on: August 24, 2011, 02:10:16 am » |
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With the right handgun license it'd be no worries to own one although importing handguns here is always tricky. Replicas are unobtainable (legally) in most states however you can own a genuine vintage piece with only a collectors license.
Back in the mid-19th century Australia had the highest ratio of firearms per-capita in the world so there are plenty of old revolvers etc floating around if you know where to look!
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