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Commander Data
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« on: February 21, 2013, 02:52:39 am » |
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Hey guys, I was told that THIS:  Was done with a "two-part epoxy". EXPLAIN.
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I swear, I'm not trying to be a jerk
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Shadow Of The Tower
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« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2013, 03:02:07 am » |
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Its simply poured out and cast in place. I have done similar things with two part polyester resin. You can buy it by the gallon at hardware stores.
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Interested in a more practical steampunk forum or want to discuss topics that are banned on Brassgoggles? Come over to my brand new alternative steampunk forum @ http://theretort.forumotion.com/
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Captain Lyerly
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« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2013, 03:36:53 am » |
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PRACTICE.
A lot, before you try to use it on something that would take a lot of work to replace or re-do.
That's experience speaking - I used to work on boats.
Chas.
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Captain Sir Charles A. Lyerly, O.B.T. Soldier of Fortune and Gentleman Adventurer wire: captain_lyerly, at wire office "Yahoo dot Qom"
"You'd think he'd learn." "Heh! De best minions neffer do!"
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Steamworkshop
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« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2013, 03:53:12 am » |
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Look up a product called envirotex-lite.
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Wilhelm Smydle
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« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2013, 04:16:36 am » |
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It's fairly straight forward. One of our local restaurants has done their wicker tables this way but the corners have chipped and cracked. I suspect the epoxy may have dried faster and flexing at the corners may be the root problem.
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RJBowman
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« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2013, 05:40:37 am » |
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There are a multitude of products that fit the definition of two part epoxy; the transparent stuff that they used to make this bar top is just one product of many.
I think that you might be able to achieve this effect with the cheap transparent epoxy resin sold at Home Depot type stores for use in fiberglass layup and repair, but you would definitely want to experiment before doing a big project and sealing in anything that you care about. The stuff has the consistency of syrup, and hardens in, maybe, a few hours after hardener (provided in a separate container) is mixed is. There is a period called the "working time" between the mixing of the two components and the liquid becoming too stiff to work with.
And a word of caution: I once saw panels from a bar top of this type stacked up an an antique store; the bar top contained pocket watches, old coins, and other vintage treasures, but the transparent resin had discolored with age (and possibly U.V. light exposure) so that all those cool parts were trapped under plastic the color of tobacco spit.
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« Last Edit: February 21, 2013, 06:17:03 am by RJBowman »
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Steamworkshop
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« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2013, 06:59:12 am » |
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If done properly it can be very strong. My grandparents has a coffee table with a very thick and deep layer with seashells and sand inside like an underwater scene. I would guess it was a good 5 or more inches thick. That table is at least 40 years old and looks perfect. It did have a very easy life compared to something in a bar or restaurant though.
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Rooster
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« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2013, 01:42:39 pm » |
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Envirotex Lite or Rustins Plastic Coating will do similar if you'd prefer a thinner coating, absorbent surfaces like paper would have to be sealed before hand though.
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Narsil
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« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2013, 02:49:04 pm » |
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When using resin to encapsulate anything there are a few things to be aware of.
- Many resins, including the polyester resin commonly used with fibreglass will tend to cure to a yellow or brown colour. Colourless, high transparency resins are available. - Casting thick sections (more than about 10mm or so depending on the conditions) in one go can cause the casting to heat up excessively. This is potentially dangerous and is likely to cause the resin to discolour or distort. - Many resins are quite sensitive to environmental conditions such as humidity and temperature. Some types are almost impossible to use in very hot or humid weather. - Some resins (particularly polyester) will continue to release unpleasant fumes for some time after they have cured and may contain chemicals which are not suitable for applications such as food preparation, sleeping areas and things which children might handle. - Resins may react violently with certain materials while curing, particularly certain plastics, paints and pigments. - For encapsulating or casting complex shapes a low-viscosity resin may be required to reduce bubbles and ensure good wetting of the surface. The use of vacuum equipment can also help in this respect.
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A man of eighty has outlived probably three new schools of painting, two of architecture and poetry and a hundred in dress. Lord Byron
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Shadow Of The Tower
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« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2013, 08:17:42 am » |
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If you don't want it to yellow or whiten you need to finish it with a uv resistant coating as you would a fiberglass project.
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Esteem Punk
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« Reply #10 on: February 23, 2013, 11:43:49 am » |
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I have currently two types of resin I use, clear casting resin and fibreglass resin. Both are polyester resins. The clear casting resin would end up much like the original, but as others have said, it will yellow with time.
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SPBrewer
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« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2013, 01:25:58 am » |
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I recently used a two part expoxy (J B Weld) on a project. This type of epoxy mixes two parts 50/50 and is some how very attracted to fingers! Well, I found that it turns to a gray water when mixed with rubbing alcohol! Cleans right up. And after all those years of putting up with sticky fingers.
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The Sky Pirate Captain of the "Queen Victoria's Revenge" 
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The_Haberdash
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« Reply #12 on: March 01, 2013, 12:38:00 am » |
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PRACTICE.
A lot, before you try to use it on something that would take a lot of work to replace or re-do.
That's experience speaking - I used to work on boats.
Chas.
This. Cannot reiterate this enough. I swear by two part epoxy (and milliput), but shop around, find a brand that you can work best, prepare to smell funny for a while, and practise using it. Especially at this kinda size.
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Professor J. Cogsworthy
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« Reply #13 on: March 04, 2013, 04:10:49 am » |
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Practice.
Reworking mistakes is a nightmare.
I have had to scrape goo out of the middle of a countertop..... and this was while working with a guy that had done it dozens of times.
We did not have to start over ( starting with a new countertop ) but it was close.
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No, no no, a thousand times no. Its pronounced - lah-BOHR-ah-tor-ee
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