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Author Topic: how's the right way to make this...  (Read 3384 times)
« on: September 29, 2010, 06:05:51 pm »

I want to make a brass plated mouse and the back must look like a scale bug or horseshoe crab
I make the design but something I did wrong:

because I printed, cut and put it togheder and looks more like Sidney Opera house then a plated mouse  Roll Eyes

the mouse is just for comparation
I realise something is about the curvature lenght... anyone knows how to calculate that?
Zeppelin Captain
England England

Lord of Glancairn

« Reply #1 on: September 29, 2010, 06:38:07 pm »

I'm just guessing here, but the width of the last segment should be say... half? two thirds? the width of the first segment?

That way it'll taper down more and give the lateral line more of a curve as well as make the main dorsal curve more... curved?

I don't know. I'm making this up as I go.  Tongue

What really matters is what you do with what you have. - H. G. Wells
« Reply #2 on: September 29, 2010, 06:42:33 pm »

nvm, I think I crack the code... but I said that 2 times before  Grin
Snr. Officer
Hungary Hungary


« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2010, 05:59:05 pm »

The spine of the segment will always be straight. You can't just fold spherical shapes from a sheet.

Maybe you could do the following: take a specimen of the mouse the be plated, remove the guts, and fill the plastic casing with something hard (polymers, glue etc.) Then you can hammer the brass / copper sheets to take a curved shape. Annealing may help. But I've never done this, so just an idea.

Troppo Laird of Dunans Ca
« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2010, 07:21:07 pm »

If you look at crabshells or any other shells they are never flat.
Since your wanting to do this in metal your in luck, metal is actually a very maleable material, it stretches and shrinks easier than many think.
The problem is that it takes knowledge and experience. One easy way to shape it is to make a buck or form, carve the shape you need out of wood, in this case your working with brass so pine should be fine for the job and a soft hammer (ruber or nylon) will help the metal shrink. Make it the size and shape of the largest part you need (you should be able to cut the smaller sections out of multiples from the same form and make them fit with a little carefull hand bending).
Its hard to explain without pictures but if you do a google for 'hammerforms' you should get plenty of information, you could probably get a lot of information from armouring forums too. Experience comes from practice and mistakes, without mistakes we would never learn.
« Reply #5 on: October 01, 2010, 08:34:21 pm »

I done designing on computer so far it looks like this (paper origami Tongue) but I'm not happy, then I got the ideea to cover the mouse in some uv gelatin and tomorow I cut and peal the 4 stripes... I hope they peal off the plastic.
If dont work I stick some tape and cut and unfold that must do it
see pic
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
Snr. Officer
Netherlands Netherlands

« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2010, 09:12:52 am »

A trick Tom Banwell uses when drafting patterns for his helmets etc. is to cover the base object in masking tape, draw the seam lines for the pattern pieces he wants on this, and then remove the masking tape layer, cut out the pieces, and work from there. Here's a post where he does this. It seems to me you could use this technique as well.
« Last Edit: October 03, 2010, 07:45:57 am by twilightbanana » Logged
United Kingdom United Kingdom

« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2010, 11:52:19 am »

another option is to sculpt directly onto the mouse with epoxy putty or similar.

A man of eighty has outlived probably three new schools of painting, two of architecture and poetry and a hundred in dress.
Lord Byron
« Reply #8 on: October 04, 2010, 06:50:52 pm »

So far I manage to shape it like this and I'm fairly happy whit the look. Seems ducktape realy is good for everything. One more question, I put in the pic a rivet... that caind of rivets are acceptable as steampunks? I cant find anywhere the old tipe of rivets what you can hammer. See the pics
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
Captain Quinlin Hopkins
Zeppelin Admiral
United States United States

« Reply #9 on: October 04, 2010, 07:45:08 pm »

These are called pop- rivets, or cherry n blind rivets.  They are indeed a functioning rivet, and used where one cannot reach the back side of a solid rivet to be able and properly buck (solid back material taking the place of an anvil to hammer on).  If you cannot find the proper solid rivet, try creating your own.  Simply take a piece of solid rod of the material you want to use, and with a hammer, peen the end.  I've seen people use a drill bit partially into a block of metal, to create a cupped shape.  Of course a proper rivet block isn't that difficult to make.  

Need to find some pictures..I'll be back in a few.  

edit:  follow the link to get a good idea of how to properly peen a rivet.

The rivet block is simply a heavy plate with some rounded shapes cut into it.  

To create your own rivets a split block is used which holds the rivet at a certain height, then separates, allowing the peened head to be removed.  Think of a pair of pliers, with teeth that wouldn't damage the round shaft of a rivet. in fact of you can find a pair of pliers you don't mind modifying, you can sand the jaws smooth, then drill a hole of the proper diameter to hold your stock. 

and remember if you're using brass, almost any metal you can find a block of will work for a backer.  you don't need to purchase a $40 heat treated backer block.  Brass is very soft.  
« Last Edit: October 04, 2010, 07:54:26 pm by Captain Quinlin Hopkins » Logged

Captain Quinlin Hopkins (Hoppy)

Do not ignore the freedoms of someone else, for eventually you will be someone else! 

DFW Steampunk Illumination Society
Deck Hand
Canada Canada

« Reply #10 on: October 29, 2010, 02:33:46 am »

I use nails as a good source for riveting stock. Buy some smooth nails in the diameter you want, and be sure to anneal them first.
« Reply #11 on: November 11, 2010, 04:15:45 pm »

done. a preview
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
« Last Edit: November 27, 2010, 09:44:58 pm by Spiritus » Logged
« Reply #12 on: November 27, 2010, 09:49:19 pm »

added a mecanical autoclicker made from that sistem who rings on the mecanical clock.
will be conected to the right mouse button

« Last Edit: November 27, 2010, 09:50:57 pm by Spiritus » Logged
United States United States

Maker/Airship Captain

« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2010, 12:37:42 am »

So far I manage to shape it like this and I'm fairly happy whit the look. Seems ducktape realy is good for everything. One more question, I put in the pic a rivet... that caind of rivets are acceptable as steampunks? I cant find anywhere the old tipe of rivets what you can hammer. See the pics

This looks like an aluminum pop rivet, these are verry usefull but if you want something to use on your brass plates they also make the pop rivets in copper and if i'm not mistaken...... brass

Sic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc
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