Master Corsetry Thread (Post A Review!)

[Evelyn Adler]

Aaah! *facepalm*
Thank you for the explanation, now finally even I have understood. 

For me it means, I can wear both, spiral or flat steel.

[Kryss LaBryn]

Just thought i'd leave this here

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

more http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,33806.0.html

That is fantastic! What a great way to show off the pocketwatch, too! I love the clasp it's hanging from. Speaking of clasps, where did you get the clasps down the front? I've been looking all over for some but all I've managed to find is some small, low-quality, too-shiny brass ones with a weird loop the hook doesn't seem to slot into well. Are they available online, do you know? Or do you have a brand-name I can try to have my fabric store order in?

[psn1der]

I FOUND THE PHOTO!

The original threads are here and here, and THIS is the image I really wanted to share:

I started with mostly white boning - the only spirals were in the seam that goes right over the bust and the back-most seam. That configuration pressed on my back ribs (I have a very long ribcage, it comes down basically to my waist) and didn't play well with my hip - compare the shadows around the bottom edge on each side of this photo - so I changed out the side and back whites for spirals. That configuration was much more comfortable, but I didn't like the silhouette as much.

The spiral steel photo is actually flipped so you're seeing the same fabric and body part - literally the only differences between the two halves of that picture (aside from my snazzy moose pajamas) are the back two bones, only one of which can be seen just peeking over my hip.

You can see how closely the spiral conforms to the body. I would guess that this is why it tends to give less-than-optimal results for our larger ladies; if the uncorsetted torso is the least bit lumpy, the corset will want to follow those lumps, rather than smoothing them out. You'll end up with weird wrinkles and buckling rather than a sleek hourglass. The flat steel boning is less floppy, and is more able to cope with the more changeable form underneath it than the spiral is. A less fluffy body can't change its shape as easily, and therefore can't overwhelm the spirals in the same way.

Instead of saying "Hey y'all, wouldn't it be nifty if we wiggled this way just a bit?"  the way spiral does, flat steel says "YO GIRLS! LOOK SHARP NOW! NONE OF THIS SILLY SLOUCHING ABOUT!"
 

*prays that she managed to say that in a properly polite way*

That makes sense now.  Also helps in what to look for when I'm purchasing.  Thank you, Mistress.

[MistressMagpie]

Ms. Adler, psn1der, you are most welcome!

[Lady Toadflinger]

Just wanted to put in my two cents worth on a couple of corset makers.  We stumbled onto Timeless  Trends at a Pirate Fest in California four or five years ago, and my daughter bought an underbust corset with a skull and crossed bones pattern on it. She loves it so much that she has just about worn it out. She wears it at least five or six times a year for up to  eight hours a day. I do not look good in underbust corsets, so have been looking for my perfect overbust style for a while.  I came across a new vendor at faire this June, and fell in love with a black and white striped little number from The Dark Angel, out of the UK. It has neat clasps instead of the usual busk, and was a real steal! ($80) The only problem I have is that I am short waisted, so I had to cut about an inch off of the length and re bind the lower edge. Since I am currently losing weight, I am also saving to have a new corset custom made by Dark Angel when I shrink out of my striped gem.

[likeclockworkshop]

@Kryss LaBryn: We got them from etsy, http://www.etsy.com/listing/64475341/antique-brass-swing-box-latches-set-of

[likeclockworkshop]

Here's an Instructable on how i made my busk www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-steampunk-corset-busk/

[Lady Toadflinger]

Aha! Thank you for the instructions.  It looks like it's time for me to make a new corset with nifty latches!

[likeclockworkshop]

Beware: The rivets take a while to get right.  I will make custom busks for people!

[Skeleduck]

Also a question: I now have a 24-25" waist and I always thought you should go for roughly a 2" reduction but some people seem to be suggesting that more is possible... I would like a nice reduction but still be able to breathe. I have a couple of 22" atm and I can't get them completely done up- although I don't have anyone to help me with the lacing. Is it possible to get corsets in a 23"? I can only find 22" or 24".

Very light post necromancy.

I'm a 25" waist naturally, and I order all my corsets at 20" and wear them with a maximum 1.5" gap at the waist. I manage this even doing my own lacing - it is quite possible to get a larger reduction if the corset is up to it. Unless it's an utterly custom job, I don't know of any makers who do 'odd' sizes however.

[Flightless Phoenix]

I guess I'll just carry on wearing my 22" ones with about an inch gap at the back then- fortunately they are all underbust, with modesty panels so it looks ok.

[Noisynell ArkAngel]

I've been scanning the thread &I'm sure theere probably is already an answer (newbie so be kind) but does anyone from UK know if its possible to take in Corset-Uks waist training corsets? I bought mine before starting swimming/losing blubber & now I'm getting gaps around the top- they're all overbusts- so not a lot in the way of reduction of anything & i'm kind of worried things may fly out of the top when I dance (ok so i sort of jump up & down rather than waltz).

I've got some sewing skills- can follow intermediate patterns etc & lots of patience so if you think I'm better to reduce them to component parts & rebuild I may have a stab at it too

Thanks for your thoughts
Nell x

[MistressMagpie]

I've been scanning the thread &I'm sure theere probably is already an answer (newbie so be kind) but does anyone from UK know if its possible to take in Corset-Uks waist training corsets? I bought mine before starting swimming/losing blubber & now I'm getting gaps around the top- they're all overbusts- so not a lot in the way of reduction of anything & i'm kind of worried things may fly out of the top when I dance (ok so i sort of jump up & down rather than waltz).

I've got some sewing skills- can follow intermediate patterns etc & lots of patience so if you think I'm better to reduce them to component parts & rebuild I may have a stab at it too

Thanks for your thoughts
Nell x

Carefully unpick a bit of the top binding so you can see how the seams are put together. The type of seam used makes a huge difference in the alter-ability of a corset. And if the resewing seams idea falls through, there's always this.

[Noisynell ArkAngel]

Ah-a that link looks most useful & instructive THankyou very much
Nell x

[Ebonrook]

My wife has recently started expressing an interest in a steampunk costume. Which I thought was great! She started looking around at lots of things, including corsets. Then suddenly one day;

I don't have the figure or body for it. I don't think it's a good idea. I should dress as a guy.

Etc, etc.

Well I for one think she's being daft. The problem is, I can't just trick her into buying one because - well it'd ruin the surprise.
Anyone able to tell me what I need to know to get one for her that fits? What measurements I need to know, etc?
Also any suggestions where to get a decent one? I know it must sound odd but I think she should have the confidence to wear it!

[AlegrahEredschtadt]

Well, it would depend on if you'd like an underbust or overbust for her, as well as if you want to spring for a custom-made one or off-the-rack.
For an underbust, to have an entirely proper fit it's best to know ribcage, natural waist, and hips. Then for a proper fit subtract 3-6 inches from the waist measurement depending on the sort of corset ('fashion', waist training, or simply a standard corset). Most off-the-rack corsets don't offer a ribcage measurement, but certain better merchants offer that as a measurement. If they don't offer this, there's a way to determine if you should size up or down. I can't be certain of it, but it has to do with if the rib cage is a certain difference than the waist measurement. However, I don't want to give you incorrect information so I'll do some snooping. I have an underbust from Timeless Trends, and though I'm extremely happy with the quality, I did have to sacrifice a bit in the way of having a large ribcage and narrow natural waist.
As for an overbust, you'll need the hips, natural waist and bust measurement, as well as busk length. Busk length for an underbust isn't as much of an issue as it is for overbusts as you don't want it to start too far up the bust, nor do you want it to extend to an uncomfortable distance from the hips. For an off-the-rack option, I'd suggest going for an overbust as they tend to fit better in the ribcage area due to the lacing starting further up the back. These can also give a bit more of that "sexy feel" to the wearer due to simply being an overbust! They give a great confidence boost in my opinion.

I can't speak from experience, but I hear having a corset custom made is one of the best decisions one can make when purchasing a corset, but many off-the-rack corsets are just as wonderful. If you don't mind spending a bit, I'd suggest browsing etsy if you choose to have one made for her. Otherwise, there's What Katie Did (quite pricey but absolutely wonderful corsets), Timeless Trends ($99-$130), and I hear the training corsets from Corset Story are rather good. Also, never buy unless it lists spiral steel boning with flat steel at the busk and lacing channels. It also helps to have double boned channels. My corset has 26 spiral steel with two to a channel and flat steel support at the sides of the busk and lacing to keep them flat against my skin. Spiral steel adds to comfort by allowing bend, and also helps with ease of cinching when lacing the corset. From experience of buying a shoddy corset my first time around, flat boning can bend permanently as well as cause actions such as sitting very uncomfortable over time.

If I think of anything else I'll make sure to edit, but I'm sure the others can help you just as much or more and cover anything I might've missed.

[KT421]

My wife has recently started expressing an interest in a steampunk costume. Which I thought was great! She started looking around at lots of things, including corsets. Then suddenly one day;

I don't have the figure or body for it. I don't think it's a good idea. I should dress as a guy.

Etc, etc.

Well I for one think she's being daft. The problem is, I can't just trick her into buying one because - well it'd ruin the surprise.
Anyone able to tell me what I need to know to get one for her that fits? What measurements I need to know, etc?
Also any suggestions where to get a decent one? I know it must sound odd but I think she should have the confidence to wear it!

Two notes:

1)Very few people "have the figure for it." That's why we wear the corsets; to force the existing body into the figure we like. If she's larger, make sure you get steel bones. Plastic ones may not provide appropriate shaping.

2)In actual Victorian times, corsets were considered underwear. When we wear a taffeta corset over our shirts, it’s a fashion entirely borrowed from the Goth scene. There are plenty of pictures of Victorian ladies, and modern pictures of Steampunk ladies, wearing a Jacket or blouse, and the corset underneath is only for shape. Your wife may be more open to the idea if the corset itself is not visible. If she’s self-conscious about her body, she can go for the Victorian Matron look, with high collars and wide skirts.

[AlegrahEredschtadt]

You've several good points! I'd forgotten to mention I had ended up wearing my underbust only under clothing as I tend to prefer to the silhouette to the fashion aspect. I have worn a corset over a blouse, but it was used as a vest. Vest corsets may be something else to consider for your wife, Ebonrook.

[likeclockworkshop]

Austin's latest creation! we posted more pictures in the pin up and the dress up thread

[MistressMagpie]

I saw your corset over in Dress-Up and was cooing over it. Well done!

[Kryss LaBryn]

Ha ha, that is almost exactly the sort of look I was going to do with my vest (with the straps and the cool fastenings). Great minds think alike, I guess! I ended up going in a different direction but it's nice to know it actually does look as fabulous as I thought it would.

Hey, for anyone who's interested, Corset-Story has a sale on: a bunch of new designs for $40! Down from like $100. They're where I got mine from and I'm very pleased with it, so if you're looking see if they have anything you like. Seem to be the same guys as Corsets-UK from what I've heard.

So far as sizes go, Ebonrook, these guys say take your normal waist size and subtract 4-5" from it, and that's the size corset you want (for their sizes/styles). So me at a 34" or so waist got a 28" corset (because I'm still losing some post-baby flab), and it fits great. One thing: that 28" is as tight as the corset can possibly be laced up, i.e. it's a 28" waist on the thing when it's laced closed; but you don't need to lace it all the way shut for it to fit well. So I'd suggest that if you weren't sure if you should get, say, a 28" or a 26" corset, get the smaller one because it'll fit better if it's a size too small than if it's a size too large; you don't want it to be laced snug and still be flappy.

[MistressMagpie]

I posted this over in the sewing thread, but I figure I should share it here too.

Just realized; I don't think I ever posted the mockup of my corset! (Shock! Horror!)

Spoiler: The fashion fabric. (click to show/hide)

The fabric is a linen blend (55% Linen/ 45% Rayon) in a lovely rusty red, and though it doesn't have that gorgeous gold sheen in real life, I think it'll look very well next to the gold hardware of busk and grommets. I'm torn on the flossing, however; I've a lot of colors of floss, and most of them would look interesting on this corset.

Spoiler: Everything all cut out... (click to show/hide)

Spoiler: Front view. (click to show/hide)

Pardon the seam allowances, I wanted the alteration room... It's a good thing I had it too, the hips were crazy, even after all the room I added to the flat pattern.

Spoiler: And the back... (click to show/hide)

Spoiler: And the sides! (click to show/hide)

Pardon the cease at the waist; I hadn't basted the bones down at this point. They were just taped in, and the adhesive warmed up and let them shift a bit.

Spoiler: The hip alterations. (click to show/hide)

Huzzah for 13" of hip spring without a corset. -_- And 8" in the first 3" down from the waist. My hips, why are you so German?

I was planning to fit the bust in this mockup, but after I took about 4" out of it and realized that it'd need to be padded to look proportional and the edge needed to be raised, I gave up on it. This pattern was drafted for a lady with Boobies. I have them... not much. I'm a C, sure... but a 30C. Doesn't quite cut it for this.

Since I want to be able to wear this alone, I'm raising the bustline by 2" for the next mock, then fitting it and trimming it down to where it ought to be. Also making it smaller... I took another look at the original pattern and realized it's built for between 4-6" of gap, not 2". It should fit well if I cut the original size with more hiproom. Sigh... At least I'll have more room to lace down. The last mockup gave my 3" reduction fully closed. Either my mockup stretched something fierce or I just fuffed the drafting somewhere. I'm cutting the next mock in cotton duck instead of denim and using a waist tape, so I should be able to eliminate the stretching issue.

I'm exciiiiiiiiiiiiiiiited, but I think I'm babbling now. If you want more babble, you can go here and look at the original babbleage on Livejournal. 

[psn1der]

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product Mistress Magpie.  I don't sew, but desperately wish I could.  I like watching everyone's projects come together.  Everyone is so creative, here.

Hey, for anyone who's interested, Corset-Story has a sale on: a bunch of new designs for $40! Down from like $100. They're where I got mine from and I'm very pleased with it, so if you're looking see if they have anything you like. Seem to be the same guys as Corsets-UK from what I've heard.

And now I've gone and bought another corset!!!  Kryss LaBryn you are a bad influence.  Ok, ok, you didn't have to twist my arm...    Those are really good prices, though!  

Paige

[psn1der]

Sorry for the double post, but I thought this might get lost in my previous post...

Orchard Corset is having a sale on some corsets and they have some coupon codes for items not on sale.  http://www.orchardcorset.com/

Use coupon codes: 10off50 or 20off100

I've ordered 2 corsets from them and have enjoyed both.  A brown leather underbust and a black satin overbust.

Paige

[MistressMagpie]

News Flash! Foundations Revealed has cycled their free articles! There are some really interesting ones, including articles on supporting a large bust, pattering a diagonal seamed Victorian corset, and some interesting flossing patterns.

Also, Electra Design's patternmaking fundraiser is ending tomorrow, exactly 24 hours from now. It's a really promising project, and more funds equal more topics covered. Even if you don't care for her style of corset, the instructional materials will apply to other patterns, and she is a very talented seamstress-- I'm definitely looking forward to seeing the videos and patterns she'll be putting together. Check it out!