Master Corsetry Thread (Post A Review!)

[Kryss LaBryn]

Anyone have a suggestion for a pattern?  I am quite short-waisted, and my bottom half is two to three sizes larger than my top half, so the patterns at the fabric store don't work.  I am horrible at adjusting fitted patterns.  I am looking for something underbust.  Help, please?

If it's a busk, it's a corset, but if it's hooks and eyes, it's more likely to be a boned bodice- check the boning too, lots of them use plastic. If you want it to look better, you could try replacing the boning with steel if it isn't already; just open the top of the casing, slide out the old boning and replace with steel (you can buy pre-cut lengths online), then sew up the end. If it laces up the back, make sure there are flat steel bones either side of the grommets;  if there aren't, you can sew a channel and insert boning yourself quite easily- the channels at the back are just straight lines.

I had one of these (plastic-"boned" bodice with hooks and eyes) and improved it substantially without opening up any channels by simply taking some twill tape (white to match the corset lining), and attaching that to the inside to make new channels. I did it beside each existing plastic bone, so it all still lies flat. I find it easiest to cut the twill tape say an inch longer than you'll need for the channel (don't forget to cut the bone say 1/2" shorter than the channel or it could wear through) and fold half an inch over at the top and bottom. Then sew one edge down at one side, just a straight stitch but really close to the edge, and then pop your bone in there and sew up the other side. I find that if I put a zipper foot on there, run the side of the foot against the bone, and go pretty slowly, then I can sew it down very neatly and nicely and also easily. Use thread in the bobbin to match the front of your corset, and you'll never even notice the few additional lines of stitching.

You have to replace the hooks and eyes too, though, because they just aren't up to holding it closed against the additional force of lacing for a proper corset (i.e. a little tighter than just "fitted" which is all they seem to be designed for). I found some heavy-duty hooks/eyes kind of things like you see sometimes in the waistband of women's dress pants and was going to sew them in there instead, but I found a super (and much nicer) corset online (which I'll tell you guys about in a separate post) so I abandoned that one as no longer necessary. But I have every confidence that the stronger closures would have worked okay.

[Kryss LaBryn]

Ohh, I shall ask a question. Rose, thank you for jogging my mind. I've a not-so-wonderful quality corset that's become a bit of a disappointment, but I need to be able to lace it without the seams splitting any further. I've basting stitched them so they wouldn't split when I had to wear it for a few hours. Any ideas of a way I can re-enforce them until I buy a new one? I figure my next will be tight-lacing quality so it lasts.

Perhaps cover the seams over with twill tape on the inside, and stitch it down either side of the seams? It's good strong stuff, and then you won't have to rely solely on the structural integrity of the thread of your seams to hold it together.

[Kryss LaBryn]

Elisa- coutil is a tough, nonstretchy (woven) fabric used for the base of a corset. It's likely that a fabric store won't have it, unless the store does specialty items. You can order it on the internet, and for substitutes, something like canvas or twill might work.

I've got this very vague memory that someone (Vienna, perhaps?) got away with using non-stretch denim.

I've successfully used plain white non-stretchy denim for two 18th century corsets. I did it as two layers, with the boning stitched in between. Worked great.

If you want to do a prettier outer layer, I'd strongly suggest doing the two tough layers, and then an additional outer layer. For my second one I just had one layer of denim and then pretty fabric for the second, outer layer, and while the denim held fine, the bones wore through the pretty, but much less tough outer fabric faster than they would have with denim.

But yeah, denim works fine if you can't get coutil.

[Kryss LaBryn]

I bought a corset online a few months ago and am thoroughly thrilled with it.

http://www.corset-story.com

They have some absolutely gorgeous corsets!! The best part, though, is that (a) most of them actually have steel, not plastic bones, and (2) the prices are really good. Shipping from the UK to the west coast of Canada was just under $10. They had a sale on when I ordered mine; all together, corset and shipping, it was still just under a hundred bucks. My model would come to about $110 after shipping as I post this.

This is the one I got:

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Here's me in it:

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

As you can see, I should have laced it a bit tighter but then, I did it up all by myself! lol

Their regular corsets are designed to bring you in 4-5"; they do have tight-lacing corsets to take you in more (up to 9" I think) if you want. Most of them seem to include a modesty panel at the back.

I've been absolutely thrilled with my corset. It's very well made, is of very good quality, and fits me beautifully. It's also very comfortable and a proper historical shape, and there weren't any delays or fuss with the shipping. So all in all I'm very happy to recommend them.

[psn1der]

I also bought my first corset from Corset-Story.  I purchased a brown leather underbust  style.  It fits perfectly and I am toying with a 'wild west' type outfit now.  Shipping was reliable as I got it in about 7 days from the UK.  (I'm in California)  They also have a 'COTD' Corset of the day special.

I would recommend them as well.

*edit*  They have both US and UK pricing and a nice search feature.  Looks to be a sale going on right now as well.

[Angelica Needle]

Looks like Corset-story are the same company as Corsets-uk a lot of us rave about

[Kryss LaBryn]

Looks like Corset-story are the same company as Corsets-uk a lot of us rave about

Cool! I must say, the descriptions sounded so similar I kind of wondered if that might be so, haha. They do do really good work!!

http://www.laceembrace.com/ also do really nice work, and a proper fitting halfway through is included in the price, if you can get to Vancouver, BC. I was seriously considering trying to justify their costs (they do nice work, of a quality comparable to Corset-Story/Corsets-UK, but their prices tend to start around $250, and that is a lot of money for me to spend on a corset at the best of times) when Google Ads tossed the Corset-Story ad up at me. But they do do historical as well as fetish corsets, so people in the Vancouver area might want to check them out.

[Starbrow]

Greetings all! Longtime lurker, first post, and I have been smoked out of my ninja-like state by a corset quandary.

I am lusting over a steel-boned underbust leather corset on Ebay that is simply DIVINE...but...I have never used steel corsets before and I'm uncertain if this one will work for me. It's only available in size 20 and I have a 25/26 inch waist. Am I going to be madly disappointed (not to mention out a lot of $$$) if I spring for it? Or can I make it work? It laces up the back and is 11 inches long, and I just want to make sure it won't be madly uncomfortable to wear.

[LadyAsprin]

Greetings all! Longtime lurker, first post, and I have been smoked out of my ninja-like state by a corset quandary.

I am lusting over a steel-boned underbust leather corset on Ebay that is simply DIVINE...but...I have never used steel corsets before and I'm uncertain if this one will work for me. It's only available in size 20 and I have a 25/26 inch waist. Am I going to be madly disappointed (not to mention out a lot of $$$) if I spring for it? Or can I make it work? It laces up the back and is 11 inches long, and I just want to make sure it won't be madly uncomfortable to wear.

Its probably going to be almost (or even more) than double your waist size so it won't work - just keep an eye out for smaller ones.

[Starbrow]

Oh! I should clarify, the 20 is the corset size, as in 20" waist. They recommend up to 4 inches less than your natural waist, so I am not sure if 5-6 less will be terribly uncomfortable or if I can simply loosen the laces enough to accommodate. I'll be wearing it over a shirt so exposed skin is not a factor, just comfort level. Thanks for any advice!

[LadyAsprin]

Oh! I should clarify, the 20 is the corset size, as in 20" waist. They recommend up to 4 inches less than your natural waist, so I am not sure if 5-6 less will be terribly uncomfortable or if I can simply loosen the laces enough to accommodate. I'll be wearing it over a shirt so exposed skin is not a factor, just comfort level. Thanks for any advice!

Your question makes more sense now you have elaborated.

It should be wearable, I have a 22 inch (which is way to small for me, my proper corset is a 26 inch) and I do wear it although it does have a very large gap at the back.  It is just as comfy as my proper one although it is a pain to get in to since the laces seem a mile long.

[Starbrow]

Very good to know - quite comforting! I went ahead and bought the 20", and sent a message to the seller to see if she thought it would work. Turns out she has a 22 in stock that she hadn't listed, and is willing to exchange them! I think I will get the larger one to be safe.

In case anyone wants to see what all the fuss was about, it's this beaut.

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I will try to post pics of it in person when it arrives. So far the seller has been a delight to work with and seems to have very beautiful handmade work.

Just out of curiosity, anyone want to chime in on their experience with wearing a corset smaller/bigger than your technical size? It's hard to resist some of the clearance sections of these sites (Timeless Trends etc.) when they have 20" options for a good price...

[Angelica Needle]

I have corsets in size 30-34. The 34s will generally lace to entirely shut now, and the 32s will go to anything between a 0.5" and 4" gap, while I sometimes have trouble putting the some of the 30s on & lacing them at all (although they're comfortable once on). It depends a lot on:
1. wearing over or under clothes
2. if under clothes, the ambient temperature (and how sw.. *ahem* glowing you are)
3. the design and make of the corset - not all sizes are the same, much as with clothing. Also the number and type of bones.
4. how much the corset has been worn and has moulded to your shape, or stretched a little.

Ease of getting them on depends on how long the laces are, too. I recently bought two Corsets-UK corsets of the day, both in 30s. One I could get straight on and it was perfect, the other I couldn't get anywhere near done up with the lacing opened as much as possible. The sizes were identical, so the latter had considerably shorter lacing; Corsets-UK sent me a longer lace with no quibble, and it then worked out fine.

[AlegrahEredschtadt]

I have both a 30 (overbust) and a 26(underbust).    The 30 is pretty much closed if I ever decide to wear it which is rare, and the 26 is about.. a 2 inch gap or so? It's almost closed at the top normally, with a 3-4 inch gap at the hips, and somewhere between 1.5-2 inches at the waist, depending on the day. It's fairly comfortable, though. The overbust I really don't wear anymore, and if I do it's just for the 'look' of having a corset on since it's only plastic boned with reinforcements rather than my underbust, which is a 26-bone steel from Timeless Trends. It's the one in my profile picture, though it wasn't properly laced that day, and was a tad small at the time since I had put on some weight right after buying it due to stress, but anyway. That one's my baby. I love it. I -DID- have reinforce one of the seams at the busk, which is the only thing I was a bit unhappy about, but it looked like the busk had worked at it while it was in the mail, so it wasn't a bit deal, though. Anyway, rant done.

Point being, corsets larger are okay as long as you don't care about reduction and just want the little "nipped" look that it gives, smaller are okay as long as you don't mind a gap, and I know some women actually love have a gap at the back of their corset, so it's pretty subjective.

[psn1der]

In case anyone wants to see what all the fuss was about, it's this beaut.

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I will try to post pics of it in person when it arrives. So far the seller has been a delight to work with and seems to have very beautiful handmade work.

Va Va Voom.  That is really fantastic looking.  Please do post when you receive it.

[Ms Fisher]

I should take a 28-30 corset. I own two 26" (one bought awhile ago and the other to good a price to pass up), neither of which close all the way, although one gets way closer to closed (aprox 1") than the other (aprox 4"). I also own a custom corset my sister made me, about a 28, and am finishing of a 27 one I made myself. Neither of these quite close, but I don't mind the gap

[ZenGwen]

http://www.scoundrelleskeep.com/

Easily my favorite corset makers ever. They'll make you about anything you need custom and have and amazing array of unconventional corsets and steampunk clothing.

Oh my goodness, there goes my bank account.

[lady joanna]

There's having a gap of 2 - 4" and then there's having a gap almost as wide as your back..... anyone else cringe when you see this??? It surely can't be in any way comfy???

I was also the lucky recipient of a Harlots and Angels voucher in the Asylum raffle, which is rather ironic when I can make my own, but I'm looking forward to being a little indulgent at Whitby!

[psn1der]

There's having a gap of 2 - 4" and then there's having a gap almost as wide as your back..... anyone else cringe when you see this??? It surely can't be in any way comfy???

I was also the lucky recipient of a Harlots and Angels voucher in the Asylum raffle, which is rather ironic when I can make my own, but I'm looking forward to being a little indulgent at Whitby!

I couldn't do the whole back gap thing myself.  It just looks painful, to me. 

I wish I could sew.  I should have asked my grandmother to teach me when I was little.  I've started beading things again, but it's taking me a while to remember.  Not many beaded articles of clothing in steampunk genre, from what I've seen.  Takes forever to bead a gear. 

[KT421]

I got a corset from Corset-Story, which is beautiful. I wore it for the first time on Halloween, and did I ever stand up straight! No slouching allowed. It took three weeks to arrive from the UK, which is really not bad at all when you consider the possible delays in customs.

I would have to reccomend against Scoundrelle's Keep, however. I ordered a corset from them last year, and after six months of no corset and no returned emails, I had to challenge the credit card charge.

[Flightless Phoenix]

I think I may have to invest in a new corset- from CorsetStory/CorsetsUK after hearing all these good reviews!

My waist measurement has increased so much over the past few years that I can't wear one of my corsets at all and the others I can only wear because they have modesty panels =[

I was a 21" natural waist and weighed less than 7 stone though- so it's probably a good thing I put the weight on (at least so everyone keeps telling me- I still feel bizarre- I only put on weight around my tummy- nothing else changed at all =[). However if there is anyone out there who can get into a 20" corset, I have a black pinstripe underbust going begging- I'll give it to anyone who can actually wear it! It's only been worn about 5 times- always over clothing. Completely Free to those in the UK, and Free except a contribution to postage elsewhere.

Also a question: I now have a 24-25" waist and I always thought you should go for roughly a 2" reduction but some people seem to be suggesting that more is possible... I would like a nice reduction but still be able to breathe. I have a couple of 22" atm and I can't get them completely done up- although I don't have anyone to help me with the lacing. Is it possible to get corsets in a 23"? I can only find 22" or 24".

Sorry about the long post.

[Semper Victoria]

I think I may have to invest in a new corset- from CorsetStory/CorsetsUK after hearing all these good reviews!

I will repost what I wrote in the Timeless Trends thread, since it was in Metaphysical and might not have been seen by Anatomical browsers:

"I do own a corsets-uk underbust and it is very pretty BUT the waist reduction goes to 2 inches and won't budge any further. I can get up to 4 inches out of my other corsets. Corsets-uk and the US sister site corset-story.com both get their corsets from Punk69 which is known for their more "barrel-shaped" corsets, meaning that the waist cinch you get out of them may be somewhat disappointing compared to better-made products. I can only speak for my own experience and hearsay from others (like this review). Plus they use flat steel boning which is not as comfortable as spiral steel. Personally I don't plan on getting any more corsets from them for these reasons."

Which relates to your question of how many inches - it is my experience that better-made corsets cinch more easily and down to a smaller size than cheap ones. I'm not a corsetiere so I can't tell you WHY this is so, but I have the feeling the way they are constructed when done by a true professional who understands women's body shapes, makes ALL the difference.

I think Timeless Trends, for about $20 more, are a far better value unless Corsets UK happens to have a style/fabric you can't find anywhere else for that price.

It's not that Corsets UK are badly made perse - they feel strong and not like they're going to rip anytime soon - but if you're looking for that nice waist reduction, I wasn't able to get it with mine .

[Semper Victoria]

I would have to reccomend against Scoundrelle's Keep, however. I ordered a corset from them last year, and after six months of no corset and no returned emails, I had to challenge the credit card charge.

That's really a shame, I've heard several people rave about the quality and beauty of their corsets. Did you get your money back? Was there no communication from the beginning or did it gradually fade to nothing? I always appreciate when people post about negative or fraudulent experiences with companies.

[Angelica Needle]

CorsetsUK do use spiral steel bones in some of their corsets. The very cheap ones are flat, but keep an eye out on Corsets of the Day, and you might pick up a bargain with spiral steel bones. I agree that the flat steel Corsets are not as comfortable, or such a nice shape, but I have a lovely blue embroidered corset from them with double spiral bones which gives me a fantastic shape. My only Complaint with it is that it's a shorter one compared to my preferred length.

[Evelyn Adler]

Scoundrelle's Keep appears not to sell anything at the moment, their Etsy shop is empty and on the website is no info about how to order.

As for Corsets.uk, it depends on what you expect from a corset. As Angelica said, they do have a range with spiral steel bones. And their corset of the day is a steal, in most cases. If you just start or want to try wearing corsets or have one to complete an outfit, Corsets.uk is an excellent source and inexpensive. If you're looking for a corset that fits perfectly, you need to spend a little more and have it made to measure, preferrably.