Master Corsetry Thread (Post A Review!)

[LadyAsprin]

I just realised I often end up having to slide my hand in under the lacing holding the modesty panel-particularly when I start to put a corset on. But, i'm happy if my panel covers the gap. I've never managed to get it flat

Each time I have tried I seem to get a gap on one side because of the bunching up and I think that looks worse than not having a panel there.

[Ms Fisher]

the last suggestion (I did it with my corset once or twice)
You can tuck the modesty panel under the side its attached to (I wrapped the corset around myself, starting from the opposite side to that with the modesty panel, then simply folded it in under the corset. Rather than wrapping side with modesty panel first and pulling it across my back)-that way if its somthing you want to get to grips with eventually, you might be able to, but it doesn't have to be anytime soon
On the other hand, if its just more trouble than its worth ignore me 

[LadyAsprin]

I found when I tried that it felt really odd. 

I do have a ladies maid at Whitby (my mum) so we will see how well she does with getting it placed right, I think if she can't get it right then there is no hope for the panel.

[Redgeekgoddess]

I've just ordered my first corset pattern today, excited and nervous at the same time.

[Lyca]

modesty panels are very very akward as far as i'm concerned and always end up abit wrinkled.

Wrinkle no more, my dear; floating boned modesty panels are the answer! No wrinkling, no tucking in, no akward wriggling. I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

First, here's an image of what one looks like (second image down):
http://sparklewren.livejournal.com/76153.html?thread=265337

Secondly, a tutorial on how to make one (very straightforward, even for the novice seamstress. One might easily find a small piece of coordinating fabric and a couple of grommets with which to make one for an existing corset):
http://sidneyeileen.com/zp/pages/how-to-make-a-boned-lacing-modesty-panel

Thirdly, and overview of the most common design employed (please ignore the drama at the top of the page, and skip to the images:
http://electradesigns.livejournal.com/59659.html#cutid1

[Lady Ashgrove]

hello all

I just thought I would share a site with "how to's" on it -- while I know the time frame is out for Steampunk and Victorian - there is a corset pattern generator on it that you put in your measurements and out pops a patter for a corset -- which could be tweaked into Victorian fairly easy.   (Well so says Drea anyway)

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/

[Flynn MacCallister]

hello all

I just thought I would share a site with "how to's" on it -- while I know the time frame is out for Steampunk and Victorian - there is a corset pattern generator on it that you put in your measurements and out pops a patter for a corset -- which could be tweaked into Victorian fairly easy.   (Well so says Drea anyway)

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/

Thankyou!

[Sam Watson]

Here are some photos of the corset I made for my wife for our wedding. It's faced with silk, and we double-laced the back with ribbon since lavender was the wedding colour. The keys are just tied in after tightening the corset (they were the "something old").

[Ms Fisher]

That is a beautiful corset sam, I hope it was a lovely wedding.
May I ask what pattern you used for it and how you found making the corset?

[LizerSparkes]

And I have to re-draft my underbust pattern.... I've lost about two inches off of the bust, waist, and hip measurements... Plus, I want to see if i can draft an overbust from the underbust or if that's just an insane task.

[Sam Watson]

That is a beautiful corset sam, I hope it was a lovely wedding.
May I ask what pattern you used for it and how you found making the corset?

It is the Truly Victorian TV110 pattern, the same as I used for the red-and-cream striped corset posted previously in this thread. I found it very simple to make, with easy to follow directions. I think I made it in a day, not including cutting the stays to measure and re-tipping them.

[Flynn MacCallister]

Sam, that's stunning! Your wife looks absolutely beautiful.

[r_is_for_rachel]

regarding modesty panels - i believe they are only there for off the hook corsets because a correctly fitting corset will lace up at the back so the edges touch.

i was lucky a few years ago to go on a corset making course (even luckier that my fella went too, so i ended up with 2 corsets!). It was really useful, and my corsets fit really well and are very comfortable.


I have a couple of cheap corsets, and whilst they look nice, they do tend to get uncomfortable after a couple hours wear (unlike the fitted corset which is just brilliant)

definatley find a course to go on! (saying that, i could do with making some new ones!)
also there is a good corset pattern book which you can buy off Amazon called 'Corsets) by Jill Salen which was recommended to me by a historic clothing student
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsets-Historic-Techniques-Jill-Salen/dp/1906388016

one of my corsets

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

[lady joanna]

My blue and turquoise corset in my avatar no longer fits! On a plus note it means I've actually filled out a bit, but on minus, I can tell you how agonising it is to wear an ill fitting corset from 8am to 11pm!

Now I just need to find time to make myself a new one......

[LizerSparkes]

Promoting a corsetry supply website, based on personal experience.

CorsetMaking.Com has pretty much everything a corsetmaker needs, from patterns to busks and boning, plus grommets and much more. They ship quickly, and sell boning by the piece for $.50 USD.  They also clearly mark when things are out of stock. 

[Flynn MacCallister]

Thankyou!

[KittieKilohertz]

A correctly tailored corset, no matter your size, should only bring the waist in a maximum of four inches. If it closes easily, you need a smaller one. If the untightened gap between the eyelets is more than four inches when the corset is snug against the body, the corset is too small.
I can downsize steel boned corsets without too much fuss.

[Ms Fisher]

Kittie, I though the four inches was a rule of thumb, not an absolute, and it rather dependends on how squashy you are around the middle
I'm not a waist trainer, but happily laced into a corset seven inches smaller than my waist, with a gap of two inches down the back (reduction of five) for about six hours recently

[rhylla]

Well, here's my first attempt at making a corset. i was really pleased with it. i used a simplicity pattern and it seemed fairly easy to use (once I'd read the instructions about 5 times hehe.)

 

i found it really comfy to wear, only problem i have is that i made a beginner's mistakeby not checking that the material i used was tough enough and my poor corset is beginning to show some wear and tear. Time for attempt no.2  

Oh, and Mr Watson, your wife is a lucky lady, that dress is divine!

-Rhylla-

[KittieKilohertz]

The problem with lacing down more than four inches in a corset is the corset itself and sometimes the lasting effects on the body. A properly made to measure corset has it's panels and curves placed according to body shape and pressure. Lacing down more than four inches can put unexpected pressure on seams, bones, eyelets and panels, creating problems like tearing around the eyelets, bone warping, seam tearing, channel buckling and general mis-shaping, all greatly reducing the lifespan of the corset and possibly shaping you incorrectly (ie, resulting in hip, shoulder or rib rolls). If you have a squashy waist and your corset is tailored to you only, reduction of five or so inches at the waist itself presents less of a problem, it's when a corset that is too small is worn that problems occur

[Flynn MacCallister]

The problem with lacing down more than four inches in a corset is the corset itself and sometimes the lasting effects on the body. A properly made to measure corset has it's panels and curves placed according to body shape and pressure. Lacing down more than four inches can put unexpected pressure on seams, bones, eyelets and panels, creating problems like tearing around the eyelets, bone warping, seam tearing, channel buckling and general mis-shaping, all greatly reducing the lifespan of the corset and possibly shaping you incorrectly (ie, resulting in hip, shoulder or rib rolls). If you have a squashy waist and your corset is tailored to you only, reduction of five or so inches at the waist itself presents less of a problem, it's when a corset that is too small is worn that problems occur

Depends on the corset, though... some off the rack wasp-waist styles are designed to take you down as much as 6"...

[KittieKilohertz]

That's fine if they're specifically made to do that, the science of pressure vs seam and channel will have been accounted for, it's normal corsets that suffer. I bought a nice underbust years ago, off the peg, but you can tell too easily that it's not ideal for my body shape - it's perfect for my waist and chest but my hips suffer awfully, hence me having to completely strip it down and renovate it to give it strength.

I do love renovating old and broken corsets, whatever size, it's such a joy giving it back to someone looking like a sexy new rib crusher

[rosalynwinters]

*sing song* I just received my first underbust in the mail *sing song*

It's so much more comfortable than I thought it would be. My only problem with it was trying to make sure it wasn't under too much tension when hooking the front caused a ribbon to pull out of the eyelet in the back. I might put in a longer ribbon and tie in some skeleton key charms to keep them from coming out- thanks for the idea on that Mr. Watson.

I thought it was going to be an entire body vice made of cloth, but instead it was much more of whole body support. It's a bit too warm for hot weather layers but for colder days it would be something I'd wear frequently.

It makes me wonder what they did wrong to Elizabeth Swan in the Pirates of the Caribbean movie that made he talk about them like torture devices.

[KittieKilohertz]

When you lace your corset, lay it face up on a flat surface with an even distance (enough to hook the busk without putting pressure on it) between the eyelets. Bring the lace tips through the top eyelets from underneath, cross L-R and bring them up through the second eyelets (make sure the lace ends are even when you start), cross them R-L and continue lacing to the waist eyelets. They are not strictly in the middle, but where your corset pulls in most around your natural waistline. Bring the laces up through the top waist eyelet and without crossing, send them straight down through the next eyelets so you should have cross, cross, cross (for example), straight line down between two eyelets, cross, cross, cross. When you get to the last eyelets, bring the ribbon through and tie the ends securely together. To lace, you pull the two vertical lines of ribbon at the waist

[crookedfingers]

There are actually a few ways of lacing corsets, the method you described seems to be the 'trainer' or 'sneaker' method, which looks pretty but as the laces are passing over the edges of the corset it will not close completely at the back. (although this does not matter if you want a gap at the back, which is a personal preference thing)
Another way is to start by threading the lace from the behind top, as you started, then cross and thread through the second row of eyelets from the front to back, cross then thread from back to front, cross then thread from front to back, and keep going with that pattern. Have some vertical laces at the waist as you described (on the outside of the corset, invert the pattern above if neccesary to acheive this.)