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Author Topic: Torvald Faust's Ogre Bombard [Steampunk grenade launcher WIP]  (Read 6591 times)
Torvald_Faust
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« on: May 14, 2010, 06:41:24 pm »

Though my Valkyr Rifle is not done just yet, I could not resist showing the beginnings of my latest project, the Ogre Bombard:




(Click on them for a bigger version.)

As one can see on the last photonic recording, and what I consider the best thing about this, the barrel is something that has been shot for real: the shell of, presumably, a cannon or other artillery piece Grin Solid brass and it will give the final product some real, real weight Cool

Further musing and such as things progress Wink
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« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2010, 06:44:53 pm »

The spent round is a nice touch and really matches the piece but the stock is interesting as well. Where did it come from?
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« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2010, 07:35:26 pm »

Yes indeed, very nice stock.
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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2010, 07:36:51 pm »

The breech piece appears to be next of kin to a hookah; is that somewhere close to correct?
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #4 on: May 15, 2010, 12:55:53 am »

The spent round is a nice touch and really matches the piece...

Thanks! Quite lucky to have found it at a local flea market Smiley

...but the stock is interesting as well. Where did it come from?
Yes indeed, very nice stock.

The stock is from a decorative crossbow I found and pretty much the only redeeming quality of said crossbow - the 'bow' itself has never functioned and never will. Quite frankly, it was an insult - I can hardly fathom anyone paying decent money to have it as a decorative crossbow Wink That being said, I, obviously, too, think it is a nice stock Smiley Happy to use it!

The breech piece appears to be next of kin to a hookah; is that somewhere close to correct?

It has been shown on these forums before, and I do believe that was the conclusion, yes Smiley I like the little details that are in it; those two little pipes will be nice to connect 'stuff' to Smiley
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Arlen
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« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2010, 03:07:39 am »

This is obviously going to be a fantastic piece. You have some nice finds there and a good mind for putting it together.
I loved your previous piece of artillery.

Good luck!
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2010, 07:29:14 am »

oh the possibilities!

have you considered turning the stock upside down? then the "barrel" would be on the centerline of the stock, like the venerable m79.
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2010, 07:34:51 am »

This is obviously going to be a fantastic piece.

Hah! Oh, thanks for the trust Grin

You have some nice finds there and a good mind for putting it together.

Patience and a good eye, that's what it takes Smiley Well, that, some technical know-how and epoxy Wink

I loved your previous piece of artillery.

Good luck!

Thanks, and, thanks Smiley

oh the possibilities!

have you considered turning the stock upside down? then the "barrel" would be on the centerline of the stock, like the venerable m79.

I am not quite sure along which axis you mean to have the stock turned...
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« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2010, 01:38:25 pm »

oh the possibilities!

have you considered turning the stock upside down? then the "barrel" would be on the centerline of the stock, like the venerable m79.


I am not quite sure along which axis you mean to have the stock turned...


My guess would be something like this:
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
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Mr. Hatchett
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« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2010, 03:46:35 pm »

It looks like it would be uncomfortable to hold and sight that way, but its profile is exquisite.  Looks nautical.
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2010, 06:34:57 pm »

My guess would be something like this:
Spoiler (click to show/hide)

If that is what was intended...Hmmm...Must admit I am quite sure I will not be doing that Wink

It looks like it would be uncomfortable to hold and sight that way, but its profile is exquisite.  Looks nautical.

Despite the profile, I think the discomfort weighs more than the looks in this case. As I will actually be lugging it around, I will need to be able to hold it Wink
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2012, 03:40:29 pm »

My apologies for digging this up, but, given that there is a big chance I will start actual work on the bombard sometime this year, I have decided to do so.

What other news do I bring to the table? A few things, mostly questions:
  • Have a look at the barrel. I figure it may be cool to make a iris aperture to close it off. Any ideas for 'pre-made' ones? Any templates? Any suggestions for construction (materials)?
  • The barrel itself is big enough to house electronics and I will probably add a control panel, adding even more space. The plan is to house a camera flash unit in there, allow for a real barrel flash when the trigger is pulled. It will mostly be a 'simple' case of rerouting existing buttons, but, one thing puzzles me. I roughly know how it works; capacitors get loaded to their maximum capacity, then unloaded 'through' the flash bulb. If I am not mistaking, the charge building in the capacitors should be measurable, but, with what kind of meter? Volt? Ampere?
  • (One of) the first items I will address in regard to this build, is to lengthen the stock. I already have wood, 'all' I need is time to get to the actual lengthening Wink
« Last Edit: January 04, 2012, 06:09:34 pm by Torvald_Faust » Logged
Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2012, 10:04:07 pm »

brainstormin'


add something to the stock that absorbs recoil and adds the extra length you need.
as far as messing with a camera flash, they can bite! high voltages can arc quite far without really good insulation.
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2012, 10:55:36 pm »

Thanks for the suggestion, that's actually a good one! But I must admit I meant to the front, so the barrel has better support Wink

Also, thanks for the warning. I'm assuming it won't be anything lethal, but I'll do my best not to get schocked regardless Smiley
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von Corax
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« Reply #14 on: January 05, 2012, 02:03:57 am »

I roughly know how it works; capacitors get loaded to their maximum capacity, then unloaded 'through' the flash bulb. If I am not mistaking, the charge building in the capacitors should be measurable, but, with what kind of meter? Volt? Ampere?

You could in principle do either (or both.) As a capacitor charges, the voltage across it rises from zero to whatever the circuit maximum is, with the rate-of-change slowing as the voltage approaches maximum. Likewise as it discharges the voltage drops quickly at first, then slows.

On the other hand, the current through the charging capacitor first spikes to circuit max, then slowly drops back to zero; as it discharges the current spikes in the other direction, then again drops back to zero. You would want to be very cautious doing this to a flash gun; make absolutely sure you understand the circuit you're modifying, and still be prepared to lose the smoke out of your first two or three attempts.
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« Reply #15 on: January 05, 2012, 08:36:29 am »

Darn, another hookah bites the dust! In actuality, though, this is a pretty sweet project. If a hookah isn't going to be smoked out of, this is the kind of thing it should be used for, as far as I'm concerned. Keep up the good work, I'm excited to see more.
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #16 on: January 05, 2012, 10:39:17 am »

You could in principle do either (or both.)
(...)
Both have interesting behaviour and adding both would, obviously, add even more interest to the device. So, I think I will go with that.

You would want to be very cautious doing this to a flash gun; make absolutely sure you understand the circuit you're modifying, and still be prepared to lose the smoke out of your first two or three attempts.
I am not quite sure why you would call this contraption a flash gun, but your warning is appreciated - I will be careful. I am not planning to modify the workings; mostly planning to add extra, aesthetically pleasing switches.

Speaking of which, given the chance for sparks...I suppose using a knife switch is a bad idea?

Darn, another hookah bites the dust! In actuality, though, this is a pretty sweet project. If a hookah isn't going to be smoked out of, this is the kind of thing it should be used for, as far as I'm concerned. Keep up the good work, I'm excited to see more.
As it happens, given the need for extra space for the electronics, I doubt I will actually use the hookah. Since I do not smoke, the hookah will not be used for the intended purpose, either Wink
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #17 on: January 06, 2012, 01:22:37 am »

a knife switch to supply low voltage to the flash unit is fine, but the trigger switch is something you might want to avoid taking apart. a flash "hot foot" is a simple affair and easy to connect to so you don't really need to take the flash apart much. at most open up the battery compartment and add you blade switch to the curcuit. the trigger for the hot foot can be as simple as a ground wire behind a metal trigger to complete the circuit.

there is that window film stuff that is mirrored that you could possibly cover clear plastic iris valve blades with, so you see an iris valve looking into the barrel, but the camera flash goes through just fine.
as for sounds, there are plenty of noisy toys out there to cut up and gut.
I bought a "raygun"  from zerotoys and it's about the most obnoxious sounding thing on the planet.

even the one dollar blunderbus I got has (had, it fried Embarrassed ) an electronic boom maker, just remove the cheap tiny speaker and wire it into the guts from a computer sub woofer. that should loosen a few teeth.
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2012, 02:14:31 am »

a knife switch to supply low voltage to the flash unit is fine, but the trigger switch is something you might want to avoid taking apart. a flash "hot foot" is a simple affair and easy to connect to so you don't really need to take the flash apart much. at most open up the battery compartment and add you blade switch to the curcuit. the trigger for the hot foot can be as simple as a ground wire behind a metal trigger to complete the circuit.
There's a button to test the flash - that is what I will be rewiring. Assuming that with 'hot foot' you mean the part you connect directly to the camera...I see no way for it to trigger the flash, actually Undecided And even then, I cut the wires leading in there to disassemble it Embarrassed

there is that window film stuff that is mirrored that you could possibly cover clear plastic iris valve blades with, so you see an iris valve looking into the barrel, but the camera flash goes through just fine.
as for sounds, there are plenty of noisy toys out there to cut up and gut.
I bought a "raygun"  from zerotoys and it's about the most obnoxious sounding thing on the planet.

even the one dollar blunderbus I got has (had, it fried Embarrassed ) an electronic boom maker, just remove the cheap tiny speaker and wire it into the guts from a computer sub woofer. that should loosen a few teeth.
Good ideas, I like those! Thanks a lot for thinking along Grin
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von Corax
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« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2012, 04:30:11 am »

I am not quite sure why you would call this contraption a flash gun...
I was referring to the camera flash unit; "flash gun" is one of the colloquial names by which these devices are known.
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2012, 08:13:04 am »

Oh, heh, now I understand Smiley Was half thinking you were reffering to something like this Smiley
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #21 on: January 08, 2012, 12:52:27 pm »

well the hot foot couldn't be simpler. you just short one pin or pad to the other, that completes a simple low volt (safe to touch) circuit and makes the flash unit go off. if you can get to whats left of the wires or resolder wires in their place, then you can trigger it from anywhere in the gun fairly simply.

also, I would like to thank you for getting me off my butt and looking for an old flash unit I had ferreted away. not only did I find the flash, I also found two old korea war era night vision sniper scope bodies I  thought  I gave away, a tiny crossbow I made 20 years ago, and the old double barrel daisy BB gun I bought years ago and forgot about. its a factory made gun that looks like a side by side upland shotgun.
I need to get pictures of it all, brings back memories.
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #22 on: January 08, 2012, 10:23:31 pm »

well the hot foot couldn't be simpler. you just short one pin or pad to the other, that completes a simple low volt (safe to touch) circuit and makes the flash unit go off. if you can get to whats left of the wires or resolder wires in their place, then you can trigger it from anywhere in the gun fairly simply.
In response to the posting, I had another look at what I have and this indeed seems to be the case. As soon as I have a little bit more time, I will run some tests - seems like this will work just fine!

also, I would like to thank you for getting me off my butt and looking for an old flash unit I had ferreted away. not only did I find the flash, I also found two old korea war era night vision sniper scope bodies I  thought  I gave away, a tiny crossbow I made 20 years ago, and the old double barrel daisy BB gun I bought years ago and forgot about. its a factory made gun that looks like a side by side upland shotgun.
I need to get pictures of it all, brings back memories.
Hah, you are quite welcome! Have fun with the old(er) things Wink
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Torvald_Faust
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« Reply #23 on: January 10, 2012, 04:38:56 pm »

Sorry for the double posting, ladies and gentlemen, but the charge building in the capacitor...How should I measure the increase?

Would it be the wire to one of the poles of the meter, from the other pole of the meter, to one of the capacitor poles and from the other pole of the capacitor to the rest of the circuit? Or simply attaching the poles of the meter to the poles of the capacitor?

Or to put it in ASCII...

A:
_____meter_____capacitor____

B:
|     |
|     |
capacitor
|     |
|     |
meter
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von Corax
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« Reply #24 on: January 11, 2012, 05:25:12 am »

If you're measuring voltage (which roughly equates to charge,) then use circuit B. If you're measuring current (which roughly equates to rate-of-charging,) use circuit A. Of course, make sure you're using an adequately-rated voltmeter or ammeter, as appropriate to the circuit.

(DISCLAIMER: I'm too far removed from my electronics background to tell you whether your ammeter would survive the discharge current, but you might want to stand behind something the first time you test it. I can tell you that the voltage across the capacitor will never be more than the value printed on the outside — or at least, it'll never be above that value a second time. Tongue )
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