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Author Topic: Modified airsoft rifle  (Read 1896 times)
United States United States

« on: February 12, 2010, 05:37:49 am »

OK, this is my first post here so be gentle.  I have a cheap SIG 552 Commando airsoft rifle, which I'm attempting to modify into a steampunk-esc creation.

What I'm looking to do is extend the barrel, add a second barrel underneath the main to hold the batteries.  As far as the paintjob goes, i want a worn, black/gray coat.

The advice I'm looking for is A) would PVC or copper piping be a better material for the barrels, and B) what is a good way to create a worn metal looking finish on a plastic piece? oh wait, C) if i cut off pieces of the plastic shell or the gun, what is a good way of patching it over?

I'll post pictures of my current progress asap.   Thanks for any advice or ideas.
United Kingdom United Kingdom

« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2010, 02:22:53 pm »

A) PVC will be lighter and probably easier to work than copper but it can be tricky to paint and glue, there are other plastics which are better suited to model-making.

B)Acrylic paints are probably your best bet for this kind of project, the ones sold for painting plastic model kits are ideal.

-thoroughly clean all parts with detergent and warm water, rinse and dry.
-Undercoat with black spray paint, some materials may require a coat of primer first.
-Start to build up the colours you want, its often best to pick a limited pallet of a few colours which work well together, this will give the whole thing a unified feel.
-Start with a base-coat slightly darker than the overall effect you want to achieve then start to add hi-lights which will pick out detail and give it a more 'solid' feel'. On mechanical things the easiest way to do this is by dry-brushing. For this technique you will need a fairly stiff brush, ideally an old and inexpensive one. Load the brush with paint and then remove most of the paint by brushing and a piece of scrap paper or card, you want to just have a small residue left. Then very lightly brush pain onto the gun. This idea is that paint will collect more on the higher points. Take it slowly and don't be tempted to use too much paint.
-you can apply successive layers of progressive lighter paint, using a lighter touch each time to build up progressive hi lights. This both simulates wear and emphasises the surface texture and details.
-You can then switch to using a metallic paint to give the impression of areas where bare metal is showing through. Use the same technique, a 'wetter' brush will give teh effect of scratches and chips while a dryer one will simulate more even wear.
-Dirt, grime and corrosion can be added with more dry-brushing, stippling and thin washes of inks in various colours.
-Also consider picking out small details in a contrasting colour.

C) TO patch holes and add extra detail there are a few options

-Use a polymer modelling clay eg milliput, sculpty etc to fill holes and sculpt in more detail.
-Use sections of plastic sheet/card to cover larger gaps, these can be obtained from model-making shops in a wide variety of profiles and thicknesses.
-Use found objects and off-the shelf components, wire, pipe, plumbing parts, electrical bits etc can all be good. But be wary of getting carried away or just sticking on something which is instantly recognisable. Try to think laterally to combine and modify parts to get the most out of found parts. Also try to consider how each componant relates to the whole object rather than just assembling a random assortment of stuff.
-Whatever you do you will probably want some kind of modelling putty to fill small gaps and blend pieces together.

Other tips

-A light grey base-coat after assembly will give you a good idea of how the whole thing will look and can show  up any problems in the fit and finish early on.
-Resist the temptation to rush, give paint and glue plenty of time to dry
-Less is usually more, attention to detail is usually more effective than trying to cram in too many flashy features.
-Use several thin layers of paint rather than one thick coat.
-When applying simulated wear and distressing, think about which parts would be most likely to be exposed to wear and tear and where dirt and grime are likely to accumulate.

« Last Edit: February 12, 2010, 02:24:28 pm by Narsil » Logged

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United Kingdom United Kingdom

« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2010, 09:46:12 pm »

If you can find it, I suggest ABS pipe. ABS is beautiful to work with, and most glues and paints work with it.

You there, footpad, stand still while I de-mist my goggles!
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