candlepin
Deck Hand
 United States
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« on: February 24, 2009, 09:45:25 pm » |
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I have a number of very nice Pyrex (borosilicate) laboratory grade glass parts. I was wondering if there is an easy way to remove the labeling on such pieces without scratching the glass. Any advice would be appreciated.
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JingleJoe
Immortal
 United Kingdom
The Green Dungeon Alchemist
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« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2009, 09:51:09 pm » |
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Soak in warm water with soap and then rub  I've had to remove much labeling from glass in my time, and time in water is allways what I find best dislodges them! What kind of labeling is it exactly? If it's nice and old why not leave it on!  |
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candlepin
Deck Hand
United States
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« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2009, 09:52:53 pm » |
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sadly, it is not that old. maybe 15-20 years. some cool stuff though. I'll upload some pictures when I get the time.
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JingleJoe
Immortal
United Kingdom
The Green Dungeon Alchemist
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« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2009, 09:55:02 pm » |
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I'll upload some pictures when I get the time.
Good good I do like scientific glassware |
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candlepin
Deck Hand
United States
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« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2009, 10:02:26 pm » |
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Seeing as how I work with lab glassware every day (scientist by day, Mad Scientist by night!), some of it is rather mundane. A lot of the stuff that I have, however, is more chemistry-oriented and is pretty neat. Or will be soon! Bwahahaha!
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Atterton
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« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2009, 10:05:31 pm » |
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Seeing as it´s Pyrex, couldn´t you burn it off?
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In space, no one can hear you steam.
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Rowan of Rin
Moderator
Zeppelin Admiral
 Australia
~The Black Blood Alchemist~
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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2009, 02:15:35 am » |
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Seeing as it´s Pyrex, couldn´t you burn it off?
I like your thinking Atterton, a true mad scientist |
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Rev. Marx
Gunner
United States
Nothing ever changes, unless there's some pain.
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« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2009, 05:34:34 am » |
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If you're talking about the brand name and graduation markings on flasks and the like, odds are that stuff is never going to come off. It is most likely baked on, and designed to withstand heat and chemicals. Of course I would have to see it to really make an educated assessment.
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blacklines
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« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2009, 05:38:10 am » |
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the graduations etc are enamel, and as an above poster commented, "baked" on... If you have access to a kiln, bringing these up to 1000 degrees (and then down slowly again) may get rid of it for you... many enamels are really low-fire and can be burned off this way--the trick is to make sure the glass is annealed again to prevent breakage. We used to burn enamel off all kinds of glassware doing this.
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candlepin
Deck Hand
United States
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« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2009, 07:10:19 am » |
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JingleJoe
Immortal
United Kingdom
The Green Dungeon Alchemist
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« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2009, 11:23:14 am » |
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Oh I see! You ment the printed on numbers, I thought you ment papaer sticky labels  heh Also; that is some fantastic glassware! I would be envious but I have some pretty fantastic scientific glassware too  |
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Geisterlibrarian
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« Reply #11 on: February 28, 2009, 08:26:56 pm » |
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Yay I can be useful! My husband works with glass!
The official expert advice:
Test a similar (the thickness of the glass walls is the key here) piece of labware that you DON'T LIKE first, to make sure your kiln is working to correct temps, and that the PYREX is pure enough to not split/crack when heated/cooled (not likely when done slowly, but it can happen)
Remember that above ~1150 F glass will bend and warp. AT ~1150, it will bend and warp if left in there long enough.
So, to bake off enamel -
From room temp to 600 F in 10 minutes, no less.
From 600 F to 800 F in 10 minutes, no less.
From 800 F to 1150 F in 10 minutes, no less.
Stay at 1150 F for no more than 5 minutes
Decrease heat from 1150 F to 200 F in no less than 45 minutes
At 200 degrees, item can be removed from kiln/lab oven.
If the enamel hasn't burnt entirely off, it should be scraped off easily at this point. If it doesn't come off by this method, grow to love it - he can't think of another way to get it off without scratching the glass.
Afterwards, the glass is fine for display - if you want to use it for lab work, you'll need to anneal it again.
TEST ON A PIECE YOU DON'T LIKE FIRST!
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Jake of All Trades
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« Reply #12 on: February 28, 2009, 08:36:07 pm » |
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Neat! I had always filed the removal of such labels under "impossible"--never thought about using a kiln... I'll be very interested to see how this works |
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SteamPunk Glass
Gunner
United Kingdom
Looney in charge of a FlameThrower
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« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2009, 06:04:42 pm » |
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Have you tried a little alcholol spirit? Might not work as it's lab grade printing and that's pretty indestructable but might tone down the colour. Alternativley you could try another approach----- make some brass collars to fit over where the printing is to hide it and add more interest and detail
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Phineas Highfedulus
Deck Hand
United Kingdom
Professor Phineas Archimedes Highfedulus.
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« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2009, 10:42:15 pm » |
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Have you tried a little alcholol spirit? Might not work as it's lab grade printing and that's pretty indestructable but might tone down the colour. Alternativley you could try another approach----- make some brass collars to fit over where the printing is to hide it and add more interest and detail
If in doubt, cover it in brass! |
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CS Steamworks
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« Reply #15 on: March 04, 2009, 02:08:54 am » |
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Just a thought, I buy and sell rf test equipment, and I have to clean off some pretty nasty adhesives. You might wanna try spray on graffiti remover. It's pretty strong stuff. Use gloves, and don't get it on your skin, it burns and is annoying. I would test it first. I have never had it damage glass, but you never know.
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blacklines
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« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2009, 02:13:50 pm » |
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all of the suggestions for chemical removal will not work. the enamel labels on pyrex glassware are essentially glass. the only chemical that I am aware of that will attack glass in a meaningful way is hydrofluoric acid--not an option worth exploring. the suggestion I made above and that another poster expounded on relating to "baking" it off is likely going to be the least hazardous and most successful removal method.
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jringling
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« Reply #17 on: March 04, 2009, 03:07:59 pm » |
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... Alternativley you could try another approach----- make some brass collars to fit over where the printing is to hide it and add more interest and detail If in doubt, cover it in brass! I have to agree with these chaps. |
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aquafortis
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« Reply #18 on: April 05, 2009, 12:34:11 am » |
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I used pyrex beakers for measuring and mixing 2-pack industrial paints for years. The labelling wouldn't come off even after exposure to paintstripper, ten kinds of thinners, recycled mixed solvent which is pure devil's pss, chromating solution, etching solution, degreaser, sodium hydroxide etch, phosphoric acid, hydrochloric, sulphuric, nitric and acetic acid, ammonia solution, copper sulphate and dozens of other lovely liquids. Your options, I fear, are thermal or mechanical rather than chemical.
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Phineas Lamar Alexander
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« Reply #19 on: June 27, 2009, 02:47:00 pm » |
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EUREKA! I have found a way to do this....
Dremel or rotary tool with alot of 400 and 600 grit flexible discs!
Simply sand a little at a time and be careful not to let the glass get too hot.
once the overall label is gone the next step is to follow up with finer and finer grit until there is little more than slight frosted appearance.... then flame polishing the frost off with a butane torch.
Start small and do this on one you can replace cheap!
I broke 2 pyrex test tubes while flame polishing ( too much heat too fast ) and while they didn't shatter they did crack. Thicker bottles of fittings might fair better.
Best of luck and please post pics when you are done.
Phineas
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Project13
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« Reply #20 on: June 29, 2009, 02:44:43 pm » |
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EUREKA! I have found a way to do this....
Dremel or rotary tool with alot of 400 and 600 grit flexible discs!
Simply sand a little at a time and be careful not to let the glass get too hot.
once the overall label is gone the next step is to follow up with finer and finer grit until there is little more than slight frosted appearance.... then flame polishing the frost off with a butane torch.
Start small and do this on one you can replace cheap!
I broke 2 pyrex test tubes while flame polishing ( too much heat too fast ) and while they didn't shatter they did crack. Thicker bottles of fittings might fair better.
Best of luck and please post pics when you are done.
Phineas
i totally agree with phineas, but you could also have a bowl of luke warm water at hand too so if you need to keep it cool you could submerge it for a few seconds, luke warm because the shock of hot to cold would be enough to crack it L |
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