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Author Topic: Kroenen mask  (Read 19767 times)
Titus Wells
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« Reply #25 on: March 01, 2009, 07:54:13 pm »

I worked as a propmaker as a bit. You have the essential gist entirely correct. Though you don't need a release agent between clay and plaster and you left out the arduous hours and hours of sanding and priming, then sanding and priming to get something like that smooth Wink

Oh the hours and hours and blisters and cancer! Smiley
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"Who would have guessed that behind the formidable brow of his, which appeared to be made of some kind of rook, there lay so strange a mixture of memories and thoughts?"

Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #26 on: March 08, 2009, 05:25:49 pm »

a quick and easy would be a foam whig head as a modelling base with modeling clay over than to get the shape and some detail, then a layer of plastic shrink wrap over that with a metal duct tape buildup over that. the tape acts like a paper mache of sorts. you will probably want to add wire like copper single strand house wire to the edges of the mask and along detail lines, to strengthen the mask.

if you chill the clay covered head in the refridgerator before laying on the plastic wrap and the tape, you can push the tape down harder as you work.

you can build up some of the details by adding layers of craft foam or using embossing glue and covering that with more of the tape, carefully tucked into place. this also makes those areas alot stronger, like a monocoque racecar or airplane body. large areas and the inevitable wrinkles can be smoothed out using the back of a spoon or anything similar. getting the worst wrinkles flat between layers will help keep the shape more stable.

you then lift off the mask from the clay and foam head. If you were careful and made sure the shape wouldn't key to the foam and clay, it should lift right off, especially if you blow air from a shop vacc exhaust up under the plastic wrap.

the mask won't be all that durable or all that smooth, but with primer and paint it will look the part.

that mask would be harder simply because it has large smooth areas to it, something more like the mask from metropolis would be stiffer and hide mistakes better.

if you added details like a nose ridge and eyebrow ridges, the overall strength would improve.
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JennyWren
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« Reply #27 on: March 08, 2009, 06:32:36 pm »

Sounds like a good project hope you paste the results here
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rovingjack
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« Reply #28 on: March 13, 2009, 04:09:18 am »

yeah the first mask was pretty cool I was annoyed when he changed to another mask later in the movie. The first one kick so much more butt.

I was going to suggest like some of those above that paper mache is a decent way to start. I'd find a way to rough out the dimensions of your head:

try making a simple silhouette with a lamp and cardstock and pencil, cut it out and fix it to a foam head or even a baloon, do one from the back and left front and right front angles. That would give you a sort of eight pointed star copy of your head. Fill in the gaps with no dry modeling clay.

Then based on detailed shots of what the mask looked like you could build up on that baes to form the mask out of model majic modeling foam. This will be what you layer the papermache over. Use bigger and shaped peices of paper to eliminate as much of the rough look of the finished surface as possable

Trim your paper mache and maybe give it some coats of paint or use something like 'pour it on' a thick  epoxy like coating material to smooth the surface even more. Now you could paint it with a plastic paint or with release agent make a plast cast for use in vacuforming which is a whole other how to.

I like the idea of maybe doing a brassy or metalic version of this mask, though the black origin is pretty spiffing as is.
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Titus Wells
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« Reply #29 on: March 13, 2009, 10:22:45 am »

If you had a head to work over you could create a pattern from plastazote (or evazote might be better). Use masking tape whilst working out the shape before gluing with superglue or contact adhesive. Then dunk the whole thing in pigmented latex (or brush/sponge it on). Once you've built up a few layers you'll get a smooth surface and a durable mask. Of course, you can't get too much detail because the latex layers will fill it in. I use this technique making crowns and helmets with children and they manage it fine.
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remission
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« Reply #30 on: June 10, 2009, 07:45:15 pm »

I am wanting to do this costume as well, but the regular one not female. The mask is the hardest part, i have everything else.
I also have a respirator I can use to look like one of his other masks

Id love to make a breastplate like he has in one outfit, without the leather jacket but that looks so complicated. I might just go with the leather tunic and trench coat with the medals and such.

Im thinking of making the mask out of paper mache, maybe using the fencing mask as a base under it for strength, and cutting holes in the fencing mask for the lenses, then papre mache over it and spraypainted it with glossy black spraypaint.

But Im worried it will show the paper mache lines under it even with a layer or 2 of spraypaint.

Any ideas on this route?
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electroginge
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« Reply #31 on: June 10, 2009, 10:00:49 pm »

I am wanting to do this costume as well, but the regular one not female. The mask is the hardest part, i have everything else.
I also have a respirator I can use to look like one of his other masks

Id love to make a breastplate like he has in one outfit, without the leather jacket but that looks so complicated. I might just go with the leather tunic and trench coat with the medals and such.

Im thinking of making the mask out of paper mache, maybe using the fencing mask as a base under it for strength, and cutting holes in the fencing mask for the lenses, then papre mache over it and spraypainted it with glossy black spraypaint.

But Im worried it will show the paper mache lines under it even with a layer or 2 of spraypaint.

Any ideas on this route?

Fibreglass! not nearly as difficult as it looks. you can get kits in most auto parts shops that are for repairing caravans and car bumpers, usually have about a metre square of glass fibre sheet. resin is about4-5 pounds a tub. wouldn't cost more than 20 pounds to make the mask, minus the trimmings Grin
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remission
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« Reply #32 on: June 12, 2009, 02:42:09 pm »

I kind of figured out how I'm going to make the mask.

My dad works in a auto body shop. I bought a fencing mask off EBay that I am using as the base. My dad is going to use the mud that he uses to patch holes in cars to create a smooth surface which I can layer ans sand and then I guess I can use spraypaint to make it glossy black.

Im still wondering how to design the mouth/chin piece. Maybe out of sheet metal..but I dont know if i can get it into that shape hmmmm


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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #33 on: June 18, 2009, 03:55:17 pm »

I had an idea the other day about making something similar out of styrofoam and covering it with metal duct tape then melting the foam down to a layer of plastic with either heat or solvent. I shall have to practice it a bit and post any results.
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