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Author Topic: The Pentecost Computation Engine W.I.P. (Will be Pic Heavy)  (Read 6161 times)
Lord Pentecost
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« on: March 01, 2015, 08:49:48 pm »

This thread will go through a 'build log' of my Steampunk PC build, buid is on going and one of many projects so there may be long breaks between posts.

The starting point is this case, kindly donated to me by my work who were chucking it out. It may look old fashioned but it won't be beige for long! Not sure as to manufacturer but case will take any ATX form factor MOBO and has space for one front and one rear fan.
Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Approximate Layout of items for front panel.
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
« Last Edit: March 02, 2015, 08:17:16 pm by Lord Pentecost » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2015, 09:27:45 pm »

Pictures not showing up, you need to use a direct link to the image file. A direct link will look something like:

Example (not a real image):
Code:
https://photos-3.dropbox.com/mypicture1.jpg

Note the link ends with ".jpg" which means it's a jpeg encoded image, anything else means it's a website link for something internal for the image hosting company.

Then add the 'img' tags to show the image on forum:

Code:
[img]https://photos-3.dropbox.com/mypicture1.jpg[/img]
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Maets
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« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2015, 01:38:47 pm »

You are also using drop box, which tends to be a temporary place to put things.  Use a image hosting site.  I am a big fan of Google Plus but there are several others that work nicely and the images should be around for a long time. 
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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2015, 08:18:05 pm »

Images should work now, they were viewing on my preview anyway not sure what was wrong.
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2015, 11:17:54 pm »

a nice trick to hide a dvd drive is to cut a piece of metal or plastic the size of a drive bay and double side tape it to the front of the drive tray so that if you tap it, it will hit the drive button and open the drive. the trick is to use the tape only from the center to away from the button so it can act sort of like a diving board. then you usually need to add something to the button or the back of the plate to reduce the gap. easiest way to line up the plate is to put the tape on the drive tray, slide the drive deep into the bay, hold the plate in the bay opening and slide the drive forward to adhere to the plate.

it's funny if you add too much to the drive open button, it goes into an open and close loop! gotta pull the plug to stop it.
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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2015, 05:09:26 pm »

First all of the removable plastic drive bay covers apart from the the ones for the drives I'm going to use got glued in with 'plastic weld' this should hopefully stop them moving and cracking the filler which I'm going to put on the front of the case to smooth it off. There was also a fair about of reinforcing plastic oddments glued to the back of the front panel.

Then out came the Dremel and I made a hole for the pilot light assembly and a couple of slots for the hinges.
Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Next comes the panel for the drive cover, a small oak drawer front rescued from a skip a few years ago. This isn't attached yet just positioned.
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
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Cousin Itt
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« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2015, 01:05:01 am »

Watching with interest!

My PC is now set up test bench style (no case) waiting for the weather to improve. (no overheating issues this way)
I'm running Windows 10 Technical Preview, so far so good!


Cousin Itt
« Last Edit: March 09, 2015, 01:15:22 am by Cousin Itt » Logged
Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2015, 01:25:06 am »

hopefully 10 isn't a giant leap backwards like 8 is.
8 is perfect if you want your $500 laptop to look and feel like a $50 tablet. putting it on a PC would be even more frustrating.

how are you going to hold the door shut? looks good so far!
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Cousin Itt
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« Reply #8 on: March 09, 2015, 02:53:50 am »

hopefully 10 isn't a giant leap backwards like 8 is.
8 is perfect if you want your $500 laptop to look and feel like a $50 tablet. putting it on a PC would be even more frustrating.

I don't have a machine running W8, but from what I can tell W10 is like W7 with features from W8 added to it.
Think W7's start menu with W8's tiles added alongside to the right.
I'm using it with a keyboard, & trackball on 7-8 year old hardware.
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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #9 on: March 09, 2015, 08:09:08 pm »

how are you going to hold the door shut? looks good so far!

I going to use a small magnet from an old CD re-writer, the door will have to be opened manually before opening the drive.
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2015, 05:33:23 am »

I had an old cdrw drive that the open button had gone bad so I had an "open drive" icon on the desktop. forget what version of windows it was but the neat thing about it was the icon usually showed the artwork for whatever shortcut the disk programs might have wanted to use, looked rather slick on the desktop. didn't always look right though, especially if you changed disks and ther new disk was without any artwork.

I wonder if the drive tray would be strong enough to overcome the magnet holding the door, might need a safety chain!
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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2015, 08:22:16 pm »

I wonder if the drive tray would be strong enough to overcome the magnet holding the door, might need a safety chain!

I kind of tested this with a scrap drive (it isn't!) but I hardly ever use the optical drive anyway. A safety chain could be in order, you now have me thinking of a chain over a pulley with a counter weight instead of the magnet!
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« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2015, 05:26:04 am »

This looks like an interesting project, Lord Pentecost.  I don't know if you're planning on doing anything with the keyboard, but I recently discovered that there's an outfit that still makes the old IBM-type Model M mechanical keyboards, but slightly updated (e.g. with a USB plug instead of the old 5-pin DIN connectors).  I just bought one recently for my own soon to be worked upon project.
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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2015, 09:02:21 pm »

This looks like an interesting project, Lord Pentecost.  I don't know if you're planning on doing anything with the keyboard, but I recently discovered that there's an outfit that still makes the old IBM-type Model M mechanical keyboards, but slightly updated (e.g. with a USB plug instead of the old 5-pin DIN connectors).  I just bought one recently for my own soon to be worked upon project.


That sounds interesting, I was thinking of buying the keys from datamancer http://www.datamancer.com/cart/datamancer-typewriter-keys-p-276.html expensive but I just can't face making 100 odd keys individually. On the subject of keyboards does anyone know if it would be possible to replace the number pad with a rotary dialer from an old telephone?
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« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2015, 11:10:09 pm »

This looks like an interesting project, Lord Pentecost.  I don't know if you're planning on doing anything with the keyboard, but I recently discovered that there's an outfit that still makes the old IBM-type Model M mechanical keyboards, but slightly updated (e.g. with a USB plug instead of the old 5-pin DIN connectors).  I just bought one recently for my own soon to be worked upon project.


That sounds interesting, I was thinking of buying the keys from datamancer http://www.datamancer.com/cart/datamancer-typewriter-keys-p-276.html expensive but I just can't face making 100 odd keys individually. On the subject of keyboards does anyone know if it would be possible to replace the number pad with a rotary dialer from an old telephone?


The rotary dialer is an analog device, it would require an analog to digital converter.
It would also be much slower than touch buttons due to the rotary action.
You may want to consider one of the smaller 60-66 key keyboards, some of the keys serve dual purpose.
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MechanicalMouse
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« Reply #15 on: March 17, 2015, 12:59:45 pm »

This looks like an interesting project, Lord Pentecost.  I don't know if you're planning on doing anything with the keyboard, but I recently discovered that there's an outfit that still makes the old IBM-type Model M mechanical keyboards, but slightly updated (e.g. with a USB plug instead of the old 5-pin DIN connectors).  I just bought one recently for my own soon to be worked upon project.


That sounds interesting, I was thinking of buying the keys from datamancer http://www.datamancer.com/cart/datamancer-typewriter-keys-p-276.html expensive but I just can't face making 100 odd keys individually. On the subject of keyboards does anyone know if it would be possible to replace the number pad with a rotary dialer from an old telephone?


I've not been a active part of the community for a while and just popped on to see the airships float by. However can someone confirm that Someone is now looking after Richard Nagy's business after his passing. It feels rather odd he's operating a store from the afterlife, not that I would put it past him though.
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Maets
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« Reply #16 on: March 18, 2015, 12:50:59 am »

The company seems to be going strong.
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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #17 on: March 22, 2015, 08:12:27 pm »

Added a lot of car filler to the front of this to lose all of the lines between the drive bays, then spent a long time sanding this with course then medium then fine sand paper before finally wet and dry paper to get to this stage. The front panel ready for primer.

before,


And after,


Next stage is to add around 100 upholstery nails to the front as rivets, each one needs a locating hole drilling, not looking forward to this next stage!
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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #18 on: March 29, 2015, 07:19:32 pm »

A busy weekend,

1. Painted the small piece of plastic and mounted the pilot light assembly using upholstery pins as rivets. The power and disc activity lights will ultimately sit behind the window. Somewhere I have the thermo-couple to put into one of the holes. The yellow push-pin is to provide a base for attaching a flexible gas hose.

2. Drilled around 80% of the holes for the "rivets"

3. Temporarily mounted the electrical components to the door,  before you ask, I don't have a source for knife switches this one came from a box of junk when we cleared my great uncle's house it is stamped "Goltone" on the bakelite base, the same logo was on a doorbell in the same box of junk so it's something to do with an old doorbell. The two bakelite fuse holders are from an electrical cabinet in a British Rail overhead line testing vehicle that was being scrapped, the same cabinet yielded a large number of interesting parts which will find their way into this and future projects.

4. Test fitted a brass doorbell push into what was previously the hole for the USB ports. This will be the start button but it will not have that surround.

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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2015, 05:15:09 pm »

Riveting completed apart from the bottom edge.


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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #20 on: May 10, 2015, 07:39:20 pm »

Sorted the brass surround for the power button



It need a bit of packing




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« Reply #21 on: May 14, 2015, 11:51:27 pm »

Oh good - have not watched a PC build for a while - keep it coming and I am along for the ride.

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Lord Pentecost
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« Reply #22 on: May 17, 2015, 06:20:22 pm »

Riveting complete


Does anyone know anything about painting PC fans? Do you have to dismantle them first?
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« Reply #23 on: May 19, 2015, 01:49:45 pm »

Riveting complete


Does anyone know anything about painting PC fans? Do you have to dismantle them first?

Don't try to paint them whilst they are running...
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Maets
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« Reply #24 on: May 19, 2015, 02:30:29 pm »

Would you actually see the fan?  Put a nice brass grating over it.
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