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Author Topic: Colt 1851 based prop (ish)  (Read 10267 times)
RJBowman
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« Reply #50 on: February 23, 2014, 10:17:14 pm »

If your government allows you to have a .38 cartridge, you could make a mold and cast them from transparent resin.
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #51 on: February 24, 2014, 09:15:24 am »

I have a little keychain led light that has a plastic bullet shaped end with a blue interior. the light shines up the blue interior so it looks quite bright and spiffy. perhaps something similar for your bullets?


here it is stuck in a little bottle. not the best pics

you could maybe use real brass cartridges and stack the watch batteries and an led inside it, making the clear or tinted bullets to cap the brass. just push the stuffings into the brass to make contact and light it up.

plan B could be a bandolier with lighted bullets, you could hide a string of battery powered christmas leds in the belt and cartridges.


seems like a remember looking for and finding plastic rod with the tinted center, somewhere online.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #52 on: February 24, 2014, 06:32:09 pm »

Thanks all, I have a few ideas but I need some tools to arrive first so that I can get the gun finished.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #53 on: March 01, 2014, 01:22:09 pm »

New tools!


It the Chinese clone of the Unimat and if it's anything like the Unimat then I have no second thoughts about paying only 1/3 of the unimats price for a cheep clone!
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hardlec
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« Reply #54 on: March 02, 2014, 04:58:20 pm »

As a unimat owner, I want to know more:  brand name?  Are accessories compatible?
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« Reply #55 on: March 02, 2014, 05:09:30 pm »

As a unimat owner, I want to know more:  brand name?  Are accessories compatible?


Can you post a photo of the beds slot profile?
From what I can see, the unimat uses rectangle slot and the Clone uses a triangle slot profile.
The machine is made by Shenzhen Zhouyu Intelligent Technology ltd and sold on ebay..


The machine set up and working on the cylinder.


Using a Dremel wood bit to drill the center hole.


Need some custom 9mm bits to enlarge the hole to size!
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #56 on: March 02, 2014, 06:14:13 pm »

or you can just tickle it open to the proper size using the cross slide and a boring bar. a quick and easy boring bar can be made from a large nail. just grind half of the nail head off so it Is a half moon and use the sharp corner as the cutting surface. works ok for wood and plastics. a good strong nail, preferably hardened.

that unimat clone looks to be quite useful.  I have some extruded aluminum framing, I could build something like that for myself! makes me wish I kept that ac motor/variable speed gearbox combo I had rotting in the garage, would have bolted right down nicely and I could have threaded the output shaft to take a small three jaw chuck I have tucked away.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #57 on: March 02, 2014, 07:37:05 pm »

or you can just tickle it open to the proper size using the cross slide and a boring bar. a quick and easy boring bar can be made from a large nail. just grind half of the nail head off so it Is a half moon and use the sharp corner as the cutting surface. works ok for wood and plastics. a good strong nail, preferably hardened.

that unimat clone looks to be quite useful.  I have some extruded aluminum framing, I could build something like that for myself! makes me wish I kept that ac motor/variable speed gearbox combo I had rotting in the garage, would have bolted right down nicely and I could have threaded the output shaft to take a small three jaw chuck I have tucked away.

I thought of doing that but when this was only £109! lazyness kicked in.
My only problem now is to source the extrusion/long bed. will need to speak to the seller.
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #58 on: March 02, 2014, 09:51:34 pm »

with those prices, it's cheaper to just buy it!

time to skulk around ebay for a while.
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dj_nme
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« Reply #59 on: March 04, 2014, 10:41:03 am »

<snip>
My only problem now is to source the extrusion/long bed. will need to speak to the seller.


Maybe it would work if you swapped out the dovetail slotted extrusion with a t-slot one?
There seems to be oodles of long pieces of various sizes on eBay:http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=extrusion+t-slot&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2
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Argus Fairbrass
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« Reply #60 on: March 04, 2014, 03:18:26 pm »

Not in any way trying to detract from your laudable efforts sir, just want to make a point for those in the UK. We suffer in this country from a lack of replica arms dealers, and in all fairness there can be import problems and all sorts of things. However the end result can often be diabolical markups.

I always recommend here as your first port of call. These guys have been going forever and often charge the most reasonable prices you'll find anywhere. Ive seen the same model offered for over £100 on other sites and that's before courier charges.  Shocked
« Last Edit: March 04, 2014, 03:20:09 pm by Argus Fairbrass » Logged

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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #61 on: March 04, 2014, 07:05:18 pm »

<snip>
My only problem now is to source the extrusion/long bed. will need to speak to the seller.


Maybe it would work if you swapped out the dovetail slotted extrusion with a t-slot one?

I have the long bed on order.
Not in any way trying to detract from your laudable efforts sir, just want to make a point for those in the UK. We suffer in this country from a lack of replica arms dealers, and in all fairness there can be import problems and all sorts of things. However the end result can often be diabolical markups.

I always recommend here as your first port of call. These guys have been going forever and often charge the most reasonable prices you'll find anywhere. Ive seen the same model offered for over £100 on other sites and that's before courier charges.  Shocked


The closest they have is the dragoon (silver) or the confederate army (round barrel).
I have the army model and its not good!
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Argus Fairbrass
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« Reply #62 on: March 05, 2014, 02:34:09 am »

Not in any way trying to detract from your laudable efforts sir, just want to make a point for those in the UK. We suffer in this country from a lack of replica arms dealers, and in all fairness there can be import problems and all sorts of things. However the end result can often be diabolical markups.

I always recommend here as your first port of call. These guys have been going forever and often charge the most reasonable prices you'll find anywhere. Ive seen the same model offered for over £100 on other sites and that's before courier charges.  Shocked


The closest they have is the dragoon (silver) or the confederate army (round barrel).
I have the army model and its not good!


Sorry I thought you were looking for a Colt 1851 hence I linked one. Still you're right in that Denix don't necessarily make the greatest replicas in the world, which is why I resent paying over the odds for them. Battle Orders will often get specific models in if you request them, but the point is folks shop around and beware of excessive mark ups.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #63 on: March 05, 2014, 07:17:00 am »

Not in any way trying to detract from your laudable efforts sir, just want to make a point for those in the UK. We suffer in this country from a lack of replica arms dealers, and in all fairness there can be import problems and all sorts of things. However the end result can often be diabolical markups.

I always recommend here as your first port of call. These guys have been going forever and often charge the most reasonable prices you'll find anywhere. Ive seen the same model offered for over £100 on other sites and that's before courier charges.  Shocked


The closest they have is the dragoon (silver) or the confederate army (round barrel).
I have the army model and its not good!


Sorry I thought you were looking for a Colt 1851 hence I linked one. Still you're right in that Denix don't necessarily make the greatest replicas in the world, which is why I resent paying over the odds for them. Battle Orders will often get specific models in if you request them, but the point is folks shop around and beware of excessive mark ups.


I am, but I'm after the stock model which is difficult to find.

This is a photo I took at Edinburgh castle. The stock model was used on many ships hence the need.

Taken on HMS Warrior in Plymouth.

However, mine wont be a perfect match as the receiver will be slightly different.
« Last Edit: March 05, 2014, 07:19:00 am by CPT_J_Percell » Logged
Argus Fairbrass
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« Reply #64 on: March 05, 2014, 11:23:08 am »

Ah ok I'm with you now, sorry about that. I remember this question came up before. The only Denix replicas that seem to be available with an octagonal barrel are the (admittedly slightly poncy) engraved presentation models.

Obviously the Pietta blank firers are far superior, but at that price they should be and you could get a deactivated real steel one for a similar sized wedge.

Best of luck with your endeavor, I'm most intrigued to see how it turns out.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2014, 12:18:41 am by Argus Fairbrass » Logged
CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #65 on: March 08, 2014, 05:13:56 pm »

So some progress,
the second side of the receiver is rough cut,and I started work on the cylinder.
Internet cookie to anyone who can spot what is missing!


I did take a photo of it after hapeing and polishing but it didn't write the image.
Still to do is to drill the chambers and somehow work out how to do the nipples!

The current machine setup (I love this ACM tool)
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Will Howard
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« Reply #66 on: April 02, 2014, 09:35:25 pm »

So some progress,
the second side of the receiver is rough cut,and I started work on the cylinder.
Internet cookie to anyone who can spot what is missing!


You have not yet bored the six chambers nor the smaller holes into which the cones or nipples would be threaded, which you mentioned, PLUS you need to slightly round off the rear of the cylinder.  Also, are you going to install the "safety pins" on the ridges between the cones?  (not all versions of the '51 had these).
« Last Edit: April 02, 2014, 09:37:05 pm by Will Howard » Logged

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Will Howard
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« Reply #67 on: April 02, 2014, 09:41:03 pm »

You could turn six cones, file two flats on each, bore them out or not (as you choose), & simply press or glue them into the holes in the back of the cylinder.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #68 on: June 14, 2014, 10:56:46 am »

You have not yet bored the six chambers nor the smaller holes into which the cones or nipples would be threaded, which you mentioned, PLUS you need to slightly round off the rear of the cylinder.  Also, are you going to install the "safety pins" on the ridges between the cones?  (not all versions of the '51 had these).

No safety pins as there not actually needed if built true.

You could turn six cones, file two flats on each, bore them out or not (as you choose), & simply press or glue them into the holes in the back of the cylinder.

Interesting.

Just a mini update (been busy trying to get my first novella ready to publish.) Just like the Unimat 1 multi tool, the heads use M12X1 threads which make finding add-on bits easer (I use RDG tools on ebay) I did take some new pics but Flickr has butchered the link  Shocked
I need to drill a new chamber as the nipple/bullet holes aren't square and joined up  Cry
The standard bed length is to small and the supplier never contacted me about the extra long bed, but I have jimmy rigged the tool to get the length I need.
« Last Edit: June 14, 2014, 12:21:20 pm by CPT_J_Percell » Logged
CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #69 on: June 22, 2014, 02:57:22 pm »

After writing myself into a corner I did some work on the brass work.



This is the detail without the barrel.


The centre piece isn't soldered together as the wielding torch heats up the other pieces and blows them apart. (I need some metal work clamps and supports.)
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Will Howard
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« Reply #70 on: June 23, 2014, 05:56:53 pm »

So some progress,
the second side of the receiver is rough cut,and I started work on the cylinder.
Internet cookie to anyone who can spot what is missing!


Also, you seem to have marked, but not yet cut, the ratchet to rotate the cylinder.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #71 on: June 23, 2014, 08:05:39 pm »

So some progress,
the second side of the receiver is rough cut,and I started work on the cylinder.
Internet cookie to anyone who can spot what is missing!


Also, you seem to have marked, but not yet cut, the ratchet to rotate the cylinder.

Well spotted good sir but the second one was a screw up and dev stopped on it Sad Mumble, grumble).
I used a dremmel to drill the nipple holes from one end then the chamber holes from the other. The stupid dremel stand is less accurate the my chine tool and neither holes line up  Cry Cry
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #72 on: June 24, 2014, 08:37:10 pm »



Thats the core brass soldered together.
no to work out how to mount the vacuum tubes.
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Will Howard
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« Reply #73 on: June 27, 2014, 06:30:47 am »

So some progress,
the second side of the receiver is rough cut,and I started work on the cylinder.
Internet cookie to anyone who can spot what is missing!


Also, you seem to have marked, but not yet cut, the ratchet to rotate the cylinder.

Well spotted good sir but the second one was a screw up and dev stopped on it Sad Mumble, grumble).
I used a dremmel to drill the nipple holes from one end then the chamber holes from the other. The stupid dremel stand is less accurate the my chine tool and neither holes line up  Cry Cry

Could you drill the nipple holes all the way through, & then use them as pilot holes to drill the chamber holes from the front?  As for the "messed up" cylinder, could you drill it through all the way from the front, then turn down the back except for the ratchet, & make a "conversion ring" & have an interchangable cartridge cylinder?
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #74 on: June 27, 2014, 07:35:52 am »

Unfortunaty, The chambers are to close to the centre whole to expand and trying to re-drill the holes will be extremely difficult.

Acrylic work is quite a pain to fix.
The rachette ring will be an easy fix and I can just an that on afterwords. My time on this has dwindled late due to my book and I use this to help when I write myself into a corner.
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