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Author Topic: Colt 1851 based prop (ish)  (Read 10264 times)
MWBailey
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« Reply #25 on: October 18, 2013, 05:28:52 am »

Ninety quid!! Blimey! I have a rather nice 1851 Colt I was waving about with abandon at Asylum this year..




 Cost me £20... It came with a really nice display stand too..the only difference is my one is my one has been converted into a table cigarette lighter






I have one of  those!
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #26 on: October 20, 2013, 01:36:11 pm »

Finially after all these problems, an update.



Just as well its going to be SP'd as there are far too many errors on it!

Main body is now cut out and assembled, Barrel is held on by brass wedge (no spring needed as the slot is slightly wonky.)
Need to wait for payday before ordering some 40mm rod (or what ever the imperial size is!) need to cut out a hammer and some back pieces and then I can play around with some bits to make it look nice.

Already planning a MK II as I found a nice brass handle to use as a trigger guard.

Grip is a bit wonky due to the way it stuck ( Sad no screw's) but it make the main body sit square in my hand.)
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RedShirtWanderer
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« Reply #27 on: October 22, 2013, 01:51:42 am »

I am not sure of the glue that you used but I have worked with plastics for years. In the future if you want to join acrylics you need to use painters acetone. In a pinch the nail polish version will work. Place the pieces together and wet the crack/ joint with the acetone. Capillary action will pull the right amount into the joint, refusing the plastic together.  You can also get acrylic fusing glue from your local hobby store. A needle tip dispensing bottle will work best with either method. That can be had at a you local jewelry crafting shop.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #28 on: October 22, 2013, 08:20:59 am »

I am not sure of the glue that you used but I have worked with plastics for years. In the future if you want to join acrylics you need to use painters acetone. In a pinch the nail polish version will work. Place the pieces together and wet the crack/ joint with the acetone. Capillary action will pull the right amount into the joint, refusing the plastic together.  You can also get acrylic fusing glue from your local hobby store. A needle tip dispensing bottle will work best with either method. That can be had at a you local jewelry crafting shop.

Im using manufacturers supplied adhesive that came from my supplier which is one of the chemical fusing glues.Can't remember the name of it as the supplied data sheet has been filed away atm.
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Ponyboy
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« Reply #29 on: October 23, 2013, 03:06:10 pm »

Looks great so far. I am waiting in much anticipation.
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« Reply #30 on: October 24, 2013, 01:46:18 am »

Great to know that you have the proper fusing glue; if done right your repair will have the same tensile strength of the rest of your material. The only other tips that I can add is, before applying the glue you need to be able to quickly immobilize your repair. Any movement between the mating surfaces will result in a weaker bond. Also you need to let the glue fully “flash off”, this could take up to a full 12 hours depending on the glue and some glues may still need additional curing time. So, to sum it all up, immobilize your project. Make sure you have good ventilation while it flashes off. And have a few nips of your favorite beverage while you wait.     
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #31 on: October 26, 2013, 05:31:48 pm »

something you could do is install a light to make the body glow and then paint the gun and do some engraving to it. the engraving will glow when the body is lit. the down side is that it can take a surprising  amount of paint to light proof the outside before the engraving.

a first coat of silver will help reflect and diffuse the light through the gun.

this method works well with those clear plastic airsoft guns too. just lightproof the seams and air gaps with a bit of caulk.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #32 on: October 27, 2013, 11:29:28 am »

something you could do is install a light to make the body glow and then paint the gun and do some engraving to it. the engraving will glow when the body is lit. the down side is that it can take a surprising  amount of paint to light proof the outside before the engraving.

a first coat of silver will help reflect and diffuse the light through the gun.

this method works well with those clear plastic airsoft guns too. just lightproof the seams and air gaps with a bit of caulk.

I did think of electronics, but with the other project gun on my workbench requiring 4 custom LED units of 15 leds, this is going to be a more simple project.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #33 on: November 09, 2013, 08:52:39 pm »

If your wondering what has happened to this, is sort of on hiatus until till I can look at it without smashing it!
I keep making errors due ti in accurate measurements which are partly down to the face the stuff sold in set MM sizers are noware near!

10mm rod =11.8mm
40mm = 41mm

It looks the the material is made in fractions of an inch and the brit sellers just gessamate! this is getting on my nerves now because it means that I have to measure in 4 directions before making starting cuts!
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #34 on: November 13, 2013, 08:05:38 am »

Finally and update!

So after faulty tools, tempertantrums and plain stupidity I have now got the main bulk finished!



Still a bit of work left (barrel not secure) and then on to the decoration!

Stands at just over 13" long!
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« Reply #35 on: January 25, 2014, 01:07:04 pm »

Started work on the MKII and after 3/4 of an hour I got this far!


Two weeks and hopefully I will have a none firing clone to cross referance.
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« Reply #36 on: January 25, 2014, 04:47:44 pm »

2 hours of work so far.


compaired to the plans, I have made the trigger fatter and bigger to handle my clumsyness!
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Kieranfoy
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« Reply #37 on: January 25, 2014, 05:16:36 pm »

Are you cutting all of it out of metal, or just the trigger?
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« Reply #38 on: January 25, 2014, 05:18:29 pm »

Are you cutting all of it out of metal, or just the trigger?

going to try to cut it all out of metal!
May have to commission the barrel and purchase a cylinder but
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RJBowman
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« Reply #39 on: January 25, 2014, 07:02:50 pm »

When this toy is finished, will you be able to fit it with stock Colt grips?
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #40 on: January 25, 2014, 07:14:52 pm »

When this toy is finished, will you be able to fit it with stock Colt grips?

No, unable to get hold of them!
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RJBowman
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« Reply #41 on: January 25, 2014, 07:23:02 pm »

Is it a problem with having them imported?
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« Reply #42 on: January 25, 2014, 08:37:50 pm »

Is it a problem with having them imported?

Most Defiantly Yes !

something to do wit customs and this countries firearm laws
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RJBowman
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« Reply #43 on: January 26, 2014, 01:25:40 am »

You can't import a piece of wood because it's the proper shape and size to be attached to the side of a pistol. Priorities have gotten screwed up.
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Keith_Beef
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« Reply #44 on: January 26, 2014, 09:29:38 pm »

Is it a problem with having them imported?

Most Defiantly Yes !

something to do wit customs and this countries firearm laws


Really?

They're little pieces of wood, with no relation to the mechanical workings of a firearn!

Come over to the mainland, buy a pair for cash and take them back.
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« Reply #45 on: January 26, 2014, 09:47:22 pm »

Is it a problem with having them imported?

Most Defiantly Yes !

something to do wit customs and this countries firearm laws



Really?

They're little pieces of wood, with no relation to the mechanical workings of a firearn!

Come over to the mainland, buy a pair for cash and take them back.

I didn't know there were available in France!
Alas I have no passport but apart from a pair of fake ivory's, I can fabricate gripes to suit my own hands.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #46 on: February 08, 2014, 07:17:08 pm »

While waiting on parts I did some work on the Specter version.

The trigger mounted to one side of the reciever ready to be marked up and filed out!

the first part of the cartridge conversion for the specter.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #47 on: February 23, 2014, 04:57:00 pm »

I am really getting annoyed with this


The backstrap is almost done except for a bit of cleaning. I do not know what in gods name the white bit stuck in the middle is but the bottom of the strap needs some work as it didn't glue  Embarrassed

I would have had the 2nd half of the receiver started but my blades need sharpening!
Never mind, should have a small lathe coming which should allow work on the cylinder and barrel (with a few tooling mods!)
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barb dwyer
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« Reply #48 on: February 23, 2014, 08:31:39 pm »

who wouldn't want an ice pistol? it's wunnerful I think.

when I did sculpture first semester,
we dealt with a thermopoly whatchacallit -
when it got all scraped and wotnot from bending twisting and filing -

the instructions said you could heat it and it'd 'clear' up .. and it did.

then again - that same plastic takes quite well to sandblasting.

I like the 'frosty' effect. would be trey biff with some clear bullets in a bandolero of some sort.
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CPT_J_Percell
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« Reply #49 on: February 23, 2014, 08:44:01 pm »

who wouldn't want an ice pistol? it's wunnerful I think.

when I did sculpture first semester,
we dealt with a thermopoly whatchacallit -
when it got all scraped and wotnot from bending twisting and filing -

the instructions said you could heat it and it'd 'clear' up .. and it did.

then again - that same plastic takes quite well to sandblasting.

I like the 'frosty' effect. would be trey biff with some clear bullets in a bandolero of some sort.

It a Spectral hunting Pistol and yes when I work out how to make them, will be accompanied with some crystal .38's
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