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Author Topic: Come up and see my etchings.  (Read 7453 times)
Dr cornelius quack
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« Reply #25 on: May 06, 2013, 10:17:27 am »

Thanks. I'm having tons of fun with this process.
The bottom line as far as design is concerned is that if you can draw it, you can etch it.
The curlicues are from a font file of decorative squiggles with a bit of editing to give a symmetrical design.
The cog border is done using an extension in inkscape that generates gear profiles. I stretched the shape out to an ellipse.

The next idea is to make a reversed etch to use as a printing plate.
Then to add some colour to the metal by enamelling the etched out areas.
I could just paint them.
But, that doesn't involve molten glass. Grin
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« Reply #26 on: May 06, 2013, 12:13:47 pm »

Thanks. I'm having tons of fun with this process.
The bottom line as far as design is concerned is that if you can draw it, you can etch it.

Be careful! Etching can be addictive. I find myself looking at pictures and wondering how they will look etched... and I end up doing it. Many friends have ended up with trinkets and etched photos just because I wanted to see how they would turn out...

As you continue the process, keep in mind that nickel-silver etches the same as brass and aluminum is even easier...
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Dr cornelius quack
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« Reply #27 on: May 06, 2013, 02:36:09 pm »

Thanks. I'm having tons of fun with this process.
The bottom line as far as design is concerned is that if you can draw it, you can etch it.


Be careful! Etching can be addictive. I find myself looking at pictures and wondering how they will look etched... and I end up doing it. Many friends have ended up with trinkets and etched photos just because I wanted to see how they would turn out...

As you continue the process, keep in mind that nickel-silver etches the same as brass and aluminum is even easier...


Yes, I'm finding that too.

I was lucky enough to get a big stack of Brass sheet at the local scrapper's yard which is holding out so far. Copper plumbing pipe works well also. I'd like to try putting two contrasting metals together as a soldered sandwich and doing an etch through one layer. Or maybe double sided to get a sort of filigree effect.



Left this one in the bath a good long time to get some depth.
Started to undercut the edge of the mask but it kind of works with that particular stencil type of font
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jringling
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« Reply #28 on: May 06, 2013, 04:04:16 pm »

Brass shim stock will etch through quickly. I'd be currious to hear how the soldier holds up to the bath.

With my mask technique I am limited to flat stock. The few attempts at pipe did not work well. When I get too much under-cutting it usually lifts the mask, so I do not get the depth you do without having to re-apply the mask (which is another hit-or-miss step).
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Dr cornelius quack
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« Reply #29 on: May 06, 2013, 04:37:41 pm »

Yes. I tried some 36 gauge embossing Copper the other day.
Through etch in about 5mins.
It's a bit flimsy to do much with unless you place it tight against a support backing piece.
Trying to solder it to a plate after the etch was singularly unsuccessful.

How do you mask your stuff?
A buddy of mine has just got hold of a UV box and we're going to try some photo-resist to get some half tone detail.
The vinyl sticks like nobodies business, just the occasional lift at very fine feather edges, so I tend to try and round out shapes at the drawing stage. The pads in the centres of closed letters can float off too if the font is too small.
Wraps round cylinders dead easy too.
One trick that works well is to etch a flat surface and then dome it out with a bossing mallet and sandbag. Surprising how much shape you can put into the metal without distorting the letters too much.
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jringling
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« Reply #30 on: May 06, 2013, 08:09:33 pm »

I do the laser printer/toner mask and apply it with a laminator... so flat is required...
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Dr cornelius quack
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« Reply #31 on: May 11, 2013, 04:12:36 pm »

Still life with Brass plates.



Photographing shiny things is hard.
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jringling
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« Reply #32 on: May 23, 2013, 01:12:37 am »

I've got a new etching to share...

I'm updating the 'example' photos in my Etsy shop. I never post photos of my customers' orders so I have to use my own cute kids...

Spoiler (click to show/hide)
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Maets
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« Reply #33 on: May 23, 2013, 01:56:51 am »

Nice and cute!
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Kevin C Cooper Esq
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« Reply #34 on: May 23, 2013, 07:32:02 pm »

Nice work, very impressive.
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« Reply #35 on: May 23, 2013, 08:38:19 pm »

those are gorgeous! I so want to get an etching setup. love doing it in high school with some of the supplies in a jewelry class. seems that one didn't use electricity just the solution of some kind. we used sharpie in some way to say where it wouldn't eat away
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jringling
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« Reply #36 on: May 24, 2013, 12:39:43 am »

those are gorgeous! I so want to get an etching setup. love doing it in high school with some of the supplies in a jewelry class. seems that one didn't use electricity just the solution of some kind. we used sharpie in some way to say where it wouldn't eat away

You used a nasty chemical called ferric chloride and the sharpie as a mask. Sharpie doesn't hold up to the electrolytic technique I use...
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Steam Titan
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« Reply #37 on: May 25, 2013, 07:58:47 am »

ah
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Agent Kallick
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« Reply #38 on: June 02, 2013, 02:06:59 pm »

Could I just to clarify a few details:

Is the solution that is being used in the bath Copper Sulphate?
I assume the Copper being removed builds up around the Cathode / the mesh attached to the Cathode.  Is this Copper useful in any way or does it just need disposing of in a sensible way?

I'm not 100% that I'm getting all of this, but it may just be something that I need to give a go and see what happens...
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jringling
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« Reply #39 on: June 02, 2013, 02:30:39 pm »

Could I just to clarify a few details:

Is the solution that is being used in the bath Copper Sulphate?
I assume the Copper being removed builds up around the Cathode / the mesh attached to the Cathode.  Is this Copper useful in any way or does it just need disposing of in a sensible way?

I'm not 100% that I'm getting all of this, but it may just be something that I need to give a go and see what happens...

The solution is Copper Sulfate and nothing else. The cathode does build up with solid copper. I clean the cathode every other month or so and add the copper to my recycle bin. I sell my copper and brass scrap when I have enough to make it worth the trip...
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Rev. Jade
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« Reply #40 on: June 02, 2013, 05:04:59 pm »

Could I just to clarify a few details:

Is the solution that is being used in the bath Copper Sulphate?
I assume the Copper being removed builds up around the Cathode / the mesh attached to the Cathode.  Is this Copper useful in any way or does it just need disposing of in a sensible way?

I'm not 100% that I'm getting all of this, but it may just be something that I need to give a go and see what happens...

The solution is Copper Sulfate and nothing else. The cathode does build up with solid copper. I clean the cathode every other month or so and add the copper to my recycle bin. I sell my copper and brass scrap when I have enough to make it worth the trip...

You could always send your scrap to me so I can melt it down and turn it into brass Mjolnirs Grin
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Dr cornelius quack
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« Reply #41 on: June 09, 2013, 11:17:33 pm »

Acquired a new bench power supply today.
My local 'junk man'(Whoops!!) "Antique dealer" has a load of lab gear from a local school and this was with it.



Rated as a 5A output with a switchable voltage range up to 12V.

Be interesting to see how this performs, compared to the fixed voltage unit I use at the moment.
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Professor J. Cogsworthy
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« Reply #42 on: June 10, 2013, 02:41:54 am »

I've got a PC ATX power supply to modify for my future attempts at....

things I need a power supply for.

http://jumperone.com/2011/06/atx-power-supply-tutorial/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Convert-an-ATX-Power-Supply-Into-a-Regular-DC-Powe/

http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply
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jringling
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« Reply #43 on: July 13, 2013, 07:10:31 pm »

Here is an odd finish:

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I can usually get this copper finish after cleaning my tank and adding copper sulfate crystals. When the piece is almost finished etching, I take it out and brush away any scale. I then put it back it the tank and set the timer for about 15 minutes. I leave the piece in for about 20 minutes AFTER the timer shuts the power supply off.

This actually happens whenever I leave a piece in without power, but between a clean tank seams to provide a more even layer of copper...
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Dr cornelius quack
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« Reply #44 on: July 13, 2013, 08:44:58 pm »

I get that myself sometimes. The copper will plate naturally out of the sulphate solution onto metals higher in the reactivity series.

Do you find the copper gives a good bond to the surface? I get a very loose coating that be removed with a light brushing/polish.
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jringling
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« Reply #45 on: July 14, 2013, 12:12:47 am »

It is a thin layer, but well bonded. I could sand or polish it off, bit I leave it when it compliments the piece.
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Dr cornelius quack
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« Reply #46 on: July 21, 2013, 02:03:42 am »



A purely decorative piece that combines a few separate cuts of vinyl from the plotter with some pre-cut sticker designs.

Problem is.

I now need a fret saw.
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Dr cornelius quack
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« Reply #47 on: August 10, 2013, 09:26:44 pm »

A first attempt at etching a steel surface.



Not the most successful result.

But it's a damned snappy title.
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Maets
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« Reply #48 on: August 10, 2013, 11:10:58 pm »

What about plating onto the steel some copper?
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Dr cornelius quack
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« Reply #49 on: August 11, 2013, 12:24:18 am »

What about plating onto the steel some copper?


Looking into this as we speak.

In the meantime, here's a more successful experiment in adding a bit of texture to the design.

Etched with a vinyl mask for the lettering, then sprayed with contact adhesive and dunked for another twenty minutes.





If I was any happier, I'd need a book.
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