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Author Topic: Cloth Covered Ethernet Cabling  (Read 8636 times)
S.Sprocket
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« on: June 03, 2012, 06:28:06 pm »

First things first, for those looking for other forms of cloth covered cables, check this thread:

http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,81.50.html

it's old, but it has some good information in it, if you're just looking for electrical.

I'm looking for ethernet,  1000Base T Untwisted Pair.

at this point I'm considering "making it myself" by hitting some cloth with spray adhesive and rolling the cord on, however the quality is going to be sub-par especially over time (this is for long term use) and the cables we're talking about are going to be 50'-100' long.  So doing it myself is a little impractical.

Anyone know of a source?
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elShoggotho
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« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2012, 06:51:27 pm »

Does it have to be external? You could put it into the wall, use bakelite or ceramic network sockets to connect your hardware, and go for smaller lengths of fabric cable to cover the remaining distance.

Something like this for the wall:
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« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2012, 06:55:11 pm »

You can get raw cable, connectors, and a crimping tool, allowing you to thread cable through cloth wrap.  
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Drew P
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« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2012, 07:01:31 pm »

Pretty sure you'll want to use twisted pair-didn't even know they made untwisted(why?).

I'd like to see your outcome,too.
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Lady Chrystal
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« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2012, 07:04:54 pm »

We've had some success covering wires with shoelaces - just cut off the ends and thread it through.
You would need to disguise the "joins" in some way, though.
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S.Sprocket
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« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2012, 07:29:14 pm »

ElShoggotho: That's not a bad idea, but I don't think the land lord wants us punching new holes in the wall.

oldskoolpunk: That's probably what I'm going to wind up doing, but where's a good source for cloth wrap?  It's  a waste of money to buy a spool of cloth covered electrical cable because copper is expensive these days and I just don't need it.

Drew: twisted or untwisted refers to whether the connector has a crossover cable or not.  My switches can cross it internally so it doesn't matter. It's just easier to crimp them as untwisted.

Lady Chrystal: I thought of this myself, but the problem is my cables are going to be 50' to 100' long.  that's a LOT of shoestrings...

Good ideas so far guys, keep'em coming!



« Last Edit: June 03, 2012, 07:31:20 pm by S.Sprocket » Logged
Steamworkshop
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« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2012, 09:07:37 pm »

You need some paracord. You can pull out the center strings and use the sheath. That would be very durable, cheap and it comes in lots of colors.
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Sir Henry
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« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2012, 09:16:16 pm »

You need some paracord. You can pull out the center strings and use the sheath. That would be very durable, cheap and it comes in lots of colors.
And if you attach the ethernet cable to the centre strings before you pull them out, threading it should be a lot simpler.
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S.Sprocket
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« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2012, 09:23:19 pm »

Awesome!

http://www.bucklerunner.com/1000-Spools-550-Paracord_c26.htm


This should do nicely.  1000 ft for 48 bucks is fine.   How hard is it to separate the center from the sheath?  Tying the center to the ethernet cable and running through is brilliantly easy.

Thanks guys!!  Now I just need to find/make some old wall mounted coil rounds I can wrap the cable around.
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Siliconous Skumins
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« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2012, 01:49:13 am »


Drew: twisted or untwisted refers to whether the connector has a crossover cable or not.  My switches can cross it internally so it doesn't matter. It's just easier to crimp them as untwisted.





Sorry, but no....  Trust me I've spent a great deal of time as a computer and network tech. The cable is called twisted pair - meaning that each pair of wires is twisted helically around each other...   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair

A crossover cable is called just that.  Wink

SS
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« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2012, 02:19:22 am »

Yes,that is correct-I make many a cable day in and day out. I've never seen untwisted cat5/5e/6 before that's why i was a little confused.
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Steamworkshop
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« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2012, 05:25:31 am »

Awesome!

http://www.bucklerunner.com/1000-Spools-550-Paracord_c26.htm


This should do nicely.  1000 ft for 48 bucks is fine.   How hard is it to separate the center from the sheath?  Tying the center to the ethernet cable and running through is brilliantly easy.

Thanks guys!!  Now I just need to find/make some old wall mounted coil rounds I can wrap the cable around.

Its very easy to sepreate. You can pull out one or two strings at a time till you only have one left. Use that one to pull the cable through.

« Last Edit: June 04, 2012, 06:13:47 am by Steamworkshop » Logged
S.Sprocket
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« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2012, 05:39:21 am »

Thanks for the correction.  We buy all of our cables so I haven't made a cable since college.

Curious hwy the cables say UTP on them, doesn't that mean Untwisted pair?


Furthermore, not sure why you're sorry.  When you're right you're right!

I may have been doing IT for 10 years, but I don't claim to know everything Smiley
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von Corax
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« Reply #13 on: June 04, 2012, 06:08:42 am »

Thanks for the correction.  We buy all of our cables so I haven't made a cable since college.

Curious hwy the cables say UTP on them, doesn't that mean Untwisted pair?

It means Unshielded Twisted Pair. There's also Shielded Twisted Pair which has a wire-braid or metal-foil shield under the outer jacket, but it's only used for Token Ring or something like that because it's so bloody expensive.

EDIT: STP was also used for Apple's original AppleTalk/LocalTalk network cables, before Farallon brought out their PhoneNet product line.
« Last Edit: June 04, 2012, 06:12:06 am by von Corax » Logged

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S.Sprocket
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« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2012, 06:42:13 am »

ah HA! I think we've pinpointed the source of my confusion then.

Thanks!
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von Corax
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« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2012, 07:04:22 am »

If anyone is curious, the idea behind Twisted Pair cabling is (in very simple terms) that if a cable is exposed to electromagnetic interferance, then both wires in the pair are, on average, the same distance from the source of the magnetic field, so the induced voltage between the two wires averages out (ideally) to zero.
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« Reply #16 on: June 04, 2012, 07:04:53 am »

to make the paracord easier to work with, start with a length LONGER than your cable, just in case. pull the outer cord sheath back from the inner core at either end, scrunching it up evenly as possible. you will notice it gets fatter around as you do that. you can make it alot shorter than you need doing that but you can then work it back longer. as suggested, attach your cat-5 to the inner cord strands and then pull it through the cloth outer cover. once all the way through, clamp the outer cloth end to the cable end firmly and then begin to work the cloth outer covering to snugly fit the cat-5 cable. don't worry if the cloth ends up longer then the cat-5, you can trim off the excess. a good snug fit looks better and acts up less later.
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Inflatable Friend
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« Reply #17 on: June 04, 2012, 10:32:50 am »

My old local DIY chain in Italy (Leroy Merlin) did a great range of modern reinterpretations of the old ceramic 'Knob and Tube' wiring systems with cloth covered wires of most types and all the ceramic sockets switches you could shake a stick at (Italian 3 pin, French 3 pin, phone, Ethernet, power switches and shutter controls, plus blanks for the rather funky modular power socket/switch system that Italy uses).

I'll see if I can get a friend to head over and see if they sell cloth covered ethernet cable to match the sockets!
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S.Sprocket
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« Reply #18 on: June 04, 2012, 06:34:36 pm »

excellent!  If they just sell cloth covered Ethernet I'll be impressed and buy some. as long as it's cat 5 or better.
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Hektor Plasm
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« Reply #19 on: June 04, 2012, 10:13:29 pm »

Get Cat6 or Cat5e cable if you can- it's future proofing (I know... Shocked) and learn how to crimp plugs on; the plugs are cheap, but a GOOD pair of small side cutters and an RJ 45/11 crimper will be needed- they will come in handy later, trust me... the cable is v. cheap on a roll, as are the ends, and much easier to thread though the paracord (which you can dye, btw).
You can save lots making up short leads that would normally cost 5-10 (£$€ etc) for next to nothing with the remainder.

Where do those lovely bakelite round sockets come from ?

HP

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S.Sprocket
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« Reply #20 on: June 05, 2012, 01:01:56 am »

*nod* I've crimped ends and made connectors before, I'll wind up doing that if I go with the paracord.
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« Reply #21 on: July 05, 2012, 09:34:12 pm »

My super delay!

Right! I popped along to good old Leroy Merlin when I was back home, they didn't sell cloth covered Ethernet cable but I did bag a picture of one of the range of plugs and sockets they sell.



These are made by an Italian company called Fanton (FME), they do a 'Country' range of ceramic wall mounted sockets designed to be used with cloth covered wiring routed on the walls surface.

In addition to the power sockets, switches and junction boxes shown in the piccy they also do TV, Satellite, Telephone, Cat5e and Cat6


Here's a link to the manafacturers site, it has most of the info on it.

Fanton's Country Stuff

Sorry for taking so long, hope this is vaguely useful!
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oldskoolpunk
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« Reply #22 on: July 06, 2012, 07:24:41 am »

I just ordered a 100 foot hank of the green paracord, to see how that works out.

I'm restoring a few more old Teletype machines from the 1920s. I'm completely replacing the 1920s fabric-covered wiring, and want a cloth-covered look on the external cables that terminate in 1/4" long frame phone plugs. Internally, I just use modern thermoplastic covered wiring in the appropriate gauge. Power cords get a 3-wire cord with ground and a bulky rubber plug, rather than the original 2-wire plug with a metal shell. I really should use waxed lacing cord instead of cable ties, though.

I've been contacted by some guy who has built a full-scale, working 1960s Batmobile, and is now building a Batcave, with duplicates of all the 1960s props. He wants to put in a Teletype machine.  I've hooked him up with someone in his city (Phoenix, AZ) who can help him get one working. The gear I work with is decades too early for his theme.
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oldskoolpunk
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« Reply #23 on: August 17, 2012, 04:44:59 am »

I just ordered a 100 foot hank of the green paracord, to see how that works out.

I'm restoring a few more old Teletype machines from the 1920s. I'm completely replacing the 1920s fabric-covered wiring, and want a cloth-covered look on the external cables that terminate in 1/4" long frame phone plugs. Internally, I just use modern thermoplastic covered wiring in the appropriate gauge. Power cords get a 3-wire cord with ground and a bulky rubber plug, rather than the original 2-wire plug with a metal shell. I really should use waxed lacing cord instead of cable ties, though.
The paracord turned out to be too small.  I need something with about an 0.25" ID. I may have to go with Electriduct, although I'd like a cheaper alternative.  There are plenty of suppliers on Alibaba, but the minimum order quantity tends to run around a metric ton.
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A. Pettyengineer
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« Reply #24 on: August 17, 2012, 01:09:56 pm »

May be a bit weird but
Try looking up wire harness builders for restored cars ..........That's OLD Restored cars
They have the machine that knits the cloth to th ebunch of cables then all the way down to a single ..............Worth a Try
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