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Author Topic: Moulding Leather Help  (Read 355 times)
MalContent
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« on: March 20, 2010, 06:06:08 am »

Okay so I attempted, after reading how to do it, wet leather molding for a respirator....needless to say it did not work....I am wondering if any one can be of help and give me some pointers....what ounce leather to use, what kinda leather and how to make it stay in its molded shape.  Thanks ahead of time.
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Korax
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« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2010, 08:08:36 am »

I'm not really sure what you mean. Are you wetting the leather down and prodding and tugging it to reach the form you want? Or are you using a heat plus soaking method?


Personally, I haven't tried either one, though I have read a fair bit on the making of boiled leather armor. On that front, and on the assumption that that is indeed what you are doing (I know that I'm likely wrong-- just on the off chance that it might be helpful) I shall leave you with the following:

Did you use just water to make your cuirboulli? Or did you try it using wax?

From what I've read, 8-14 oz leather works. I would guess that it could be done with any weight, but the practicality is limited by the malleability you need, the strength with which you can manipulate the leather, and the radii of any curves you are making. The lighter the weight, the easier it is to form, but the softer it will be after you've treated it. Longer soaks equal more shrinkage and stiffer leather (up to a point).

You've probably already seen these, but if you haven't... These are about making armor, but the principles hold through. Smiley

The Perfect Armor Improved: Water Hardened Leather
Cuir Bouilli/Hardened Leather FAQ
Boiled Wax Leather Armor
« Last Edit: March 20, 2010, 08:18:38 am by Korax » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2010, 02:47:49 pm »

Are you using vegetable-tanned leather?
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« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2010, 03:17:34 pm »

Having moulded leather successfully quite a bit my first guess is that you weren't using Vegetable Tanned Leather.

If you cut it the interior should be pink.  If it's grey it's Chrome tanned.  If it's oil tanned you should be able to tell from the feel of it.

Soak it in warm water for 10 to fifteen minutes then place it in a plastic bag and leave it in the fridge over night (or at least an hour) this will help the water really soak in.

Ideally you place your mould on a wooden board and place a larger piece of leather over it.  Then you press it roughly into shape and use small nails or similar you attach it tightly over the mould (but only in the edges that you will cut off later.  Then using whatever implements you have to hand you press it tightly into the mould, smooth bits out as needed and so on.

Then leave it to dry before you remove it from the mould.  Once removed it should be stiff and retain the shape.  It won't be like a moulded metal or thick plastic piece, you can deform it by pressing on it.  But you should be able to push it back into shape just as easily (if you actually pushed it out of shape permanently.)

I hope that this helps,

Z.
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« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2010, 06:32:09 pm »


If you tell us exactly what you did we might be able to see where you went wrong.
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MalContent
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« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2010, 07:13:34 pm »

Thanks for all the help....I think I used to thick of leather for the project I am working....am going in a different direction now...should be easier and yield a more Steamy result....heres to take two!
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CapnHarlock
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« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2010, 08:08:09 pm »

Quote
Are you using vegetable-tanned leather?

Exactly - if the cut edge is a silvery-grey color, it is chrome-tanned, and wetting it will just be a mess, it will not do what you want it to do
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« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2010, 11:07:02 pm »

Thanks for all the help....I think I used to thick of leather for the project I am working....am going in a different direction now...should be easier and yield a more Steamy result....heres to take two!

Thickness, in itself shouldn't be a massive problem. if you;re using veg tanned leather even quite heavy stuff will take a fair amount of depth of form if you work it enough.

To get the best definition you need to keep working it as it dries, since it will tend to shrink back to its flat shape otherwise.

I'd also reiterate that it needs to be veg tanned to wet form properly. Veg tanned leather has a characteristic orangey/beige colour and is realtivly hard and stiff when new. You can also get a half-tanned type which has a thin core of what is basically rawhide, it;s vert stiff but will take structure very well with wet forming.
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MalContent
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« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2010, 12:25:33 am »

looking closer at the leather it was not the right stuff....thanks for all the pointers
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