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Author Topic: Vacuum tube info  (Read 3572 times)
Laserpunk
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« on: March 16, 2010, 11:37:58 pm »

Did a search of the site and nothing came up that would answer my questions. So here they are.

I ordered a few of these...



Mine are RAYTHEON 1G3GT 1B3GT vacuum tubes.

My questions are;

1. Do these emit light?
2. If so, how many volts AC or DC does it need to radiate?
3. What pins do I need to connect too to make it happen?

I have a schematic, and info for the same tube, but from a different company.

http://tubedata.milbert.com/sheets/093/1/1B3GT.pdf
http://tubedata.milbert.com/sheets/093/1/1G3GT.pdf

From what I get out of this is that pin 2 and 7 are filament connections. Can I just run voltage through these to make it light?

I know its ironic because I work with lasers, but electronics are not my forte.

Thank you in advance for any help.

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JingleJoe
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« Reply #1 on: March 16, 2010, 11:56:24 pm »


From what I get out of this is that pin 2 and 7 are filament connections. Can I just run voltage through these to make it light?

Yes, but you need to know how many volts, filaments don't care if it's AC or DC but it could be 3 volts or 30 that you require, you need to know this.
If you want to make a circuit using it the ... other bits (too tired to access memory of names of things) will certainly require more, most valves I have seem to need above 100 volts.
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JingleJoe
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« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2010, 12:03:34 am »

Ah look closer at the data sheets, the filament requires 1.25 volts @ 200mA Smiley
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Laserpunk
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« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2010, 12:21:29 am »

Awesome Joe, thank you.

They are for show only.
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HAC
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« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2010, 12:23:38 am »

Valves don't really light up as such, but in operation you will get a nice glow, that's noticeable in the dark. LED's are much brighterm by way of comparison.



Cheers
Harold
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Laserpunk
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« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2010, 12:56:46 am »

I thought to put a LED in there, but how do you make a hole in the glass without it imploding?
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JingleJoe
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« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2010, 02:28:36 am »

Don't make a hole in it!

Just put the LED right under the base of the tube, glass transmits enough light to make the whole tube shine nicely Smiley There are sweet spots though that seem to be anywhere around the base and sometimes even moving the LED a small distance away from the tube gives better spread of light.

P.S. Made this a while ago, but I would rather valves were used properly now, but they look so nice sometimes you just have to use them for display!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/joe64/LEDmodvalveJPG.jpg
« Last Edit: March 17, 2010, 02:34:27 am by JingleJoe » Logged
Laserpunk
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« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2010, 02:43:06 am »

Excellent. Thank you kind sirs.

I noticed you did not use a resistor on the LED. Did it last very long?
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JingleJoe
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« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2010, 02:57:23 am »

With a small battery like a coin cell it doesn't really need one, but you can use one if your power supply is able to deliver a great amperage. The LED valves I made were hooked up to circuits with resistors already encorporated.
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Laserpunk
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« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2010, 03:48:59 am »

I'll be using a computer power supply to power the whole project.

I'll be making a laser powered device that projects a twinkling star pattern and multi-colored aurora borealis.

I was original going to encase the power supply in stained glass, but I think the tubes will give it more visual flare. 
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JingleJoe
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« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2010, 03:48:54 pm »

Last time I saw a computer PSU it's 3.3 volt rail could supply more than 10 amps, thats enough to blow up the LED Cheesy I mean: Shocked
You should use an LED resistor calculator to help find the best value to use.
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oldskoolpunk
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« Reply #11 on: March 20, 2010, 05:25:07 am »

Apply 1.25V between pins 2 and 7, and you'll get some glow. This is safe.

If you actually power up that tube as designed, with 33,000V at 15KHz applied between filament and plate, it will emit soft X-rays.  Which you do not want. That tube is a high voltage rectifier for supplying the second anode voltage for a CRT color TV set.
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Laserpunk
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« Reply #12 on: March 21, 2010, 07:36:19 am »

Here is the advice I received to hook the tubes up....

"For the vacuum tubes is a little problem to hook them directly cause there's no 1,25V outputs, in those PSUs, but you can try to put 2 of them in serie (2,5V), and add a silicon diode to the serie (2,5V +0,7V=3,2V, just for not risk to burn them too quickly), and use another of the orange 3,3V outputs ..... each serie is 0,25W, so a pair of normal 1N serie diodes can be enough (no matter the number, the lowest one, that is 1N4001, still hold 100V, so any ones from 4001 to 4007 is ok)"

It's kind of confusing though. If I read it correctly I should put 2 tubes in series with a 1N4001 diode. Then repeat the same step for the other 2?
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loydb
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« Reply #13 on: March 21, 2010, 01:09:41 pm »

If the tube is for looks only, why bother powering it at all? Use an orange LED as suggested above, and it will look like the tube is glowing (and probably overpower the faint glow you'll get off the powered tube anyway). For extra points, tie the LEDs to your hard drive activity header!

 
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JingleJoe
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« Reply #14 on: March 23, 2010, 02:57:49 am »

Here is the advice I received to hook the tubes up....

"For the vacuum tubes is a little problem to hook them directly cause there's no 1,25V outputs, in those PSUs, but you can try to put 2 of them in serie (2,5V), and add a silicon diode to the serie (2,5V +0,7V=3,2V, just for not risk to burn them too quickly), and use another of the orange 3,3V outputs ..... each serie is 0,25W, so a pair of normal 1N serie diodes can be enough (no matter the number, the lowest one, that is 1N4001, still hold 100V, so any ones from 4001 to 4007 is ok)"

It's kind of confusing though. If I read it correctly I should put 2 tubes in series with a 1N4001 diode. Then repeat the same step for the other 2?
I am also confused, however putting them in series should work, kinda. a better thing to do would be to connect them to a voltage regulator (thank siliconous skumins for that one Grin) the LM317, variable voltage regulator can deliver about an amp and a half with proper heat-sinking and you only need 0.2 amps per tube!

Now would you like some information on the voltage regulator? Smiley

P.S. I had trouble resisting using my typo to provide hilarious mad scientist accent Tongue  "da foltage regulator!" Cheesy ... well it made me laugh
« Last Edit: March 23, 2010, 02:59:32 am by JingleJoe » Logged
chainmailleman
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« Reply #15 on: March 29, 2010, 05:55:26 pm »

http://www.teamdroid.com/diy-hollow-out-a-light-bulb/

This is exactly where I got my 'off the wall' idea to make a real thermionic diode.
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oldskoolpunk
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« Reply #16 on: March 31, 2010, 07:43:34 am »

If you just want it to glow, get a thyatron. That's a gas-discharge tube, and they glow purple.
There's a 2A4G thyatron on eBay for $10. Here are its specs: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/mystery/operation.htm

There's a video of one at the Philco Mystery Control page, which describes the first wireless remote - a radio tuning control with a telephone-like dial.
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