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Author Topic: Raygun development (lots of pics)  (Read 1249 times)
akumabito
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« on: March 04, 2010, 08:35:47 pm »

Ok, so I am in the middle of designing and making a raygun, "Weird West" style. I figured I'd take a lot of pics of the process, so here goes!

I started with a quick photoshop. I wanted something relatively easy to make. I started out with a picture of a Remington New Army revolver. Then deleted the barrels in favor of a twin-pronged front end. The final version will have these wrapped in copper wire. A full-sized version of the cutting template can be found here: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v155/akumabito/raygun3.jpg

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

It is sized so it can be printed exactly on an A4 sized piece of paper, like so:

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I then cut it out, stuck it on a piece of thin cardboard and used that as a template, like so:

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

This was then used to trace the model onto a sheet of 6mm MDF board.

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Then the cutting began..

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

I'd like to say that no power tools were used.. with the exception of a 15 year old cordless drill, which is severely lacking in the power department, lol..

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

A little more sawing to finish the trigger guard.. I screwed up on the trigger.. oh well..

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

Then I used the same template process to make a pair of side plates and some rudimentary grips..

Spoiler (click to show/hide)

And that's it for now. I don't think I will continue working on this model though. It needs some changing. I like the proportions of the gun, but the grip feels too small.. or rather, too short. The whole gun will need to be 'supersized' by about 10% I think. It's well over 30cm (12 inch) long at the moment, so it's gonna be a big'un.. I'll wrap the prongs in copper wire to make it look more like a ray/coil/railgun of sorts. I'll also add a cylinder as found on a regular revolver, possibly also wrapped in copper wire, maybe to resemble the rotors found in electrical motors..  I'll need a good way to shape/cover the grips though. Gotta give that some thought.. Smiley

Stay tuned for more updates!
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2010, 10:19:30 am »

if you could score a chunk of regular wood to do the grips.....

even a soft wood can be hardened with a good soaking of varnish. a soft wood would be easy to shape.
some cedar post or plank could be used to make the grips. very easily worked with some woodgrain to see (if you choose a piece carefully) the big box hardware stores here cut wood to length and have a garbage can full of scraps nearby the saw, maybe they do similar there? a few small chunks for working can give you options. just be careful staining soft woods, they will soak it up fast and end up pretty dark.
I used 5 minute clear epoxy on some really soft wood once, just gooped it on good and wiped off the excess before it set. just do small batches so you don't suddenly have a big hard lump on the grip. it will still make the wood fuzz up a little but you just give it a light sanding after the epoxy sets up completely. may need a second coat to really fill in the wood pores. a finish coat of just about anything after that will even it out.

you will find that if you round the grips well, that your hand will ride up higher and the grip will feel more natural. don't quite give up on the shape as of yet!

as for the cylinder, maybe take some PVC pipe fittings of a vitamin bottle and use that for the cylinder?
you could either cut the fittings or bottle lengthwise and glue each half to a side or cut a groove in the bottle/fittings and straddle the center slice of mdf, replacing the top strap afterwards.

don't use those white slippery pill bottles, too flexible and paint hardly sticks. try those hard bottles, like for supplements, the ones that are brown and somewhat translucent. they are sturdy and take paint well with a bit of sanding.

you could cut out a window in the wood for a bottle like that and light the bottle from the inside with one of those little keychain LED lights.

the groove between the coil fingers might need to be wider, once you add the wire its going to get pretty tight.

the way I round grips like that is to dremel away some of the material to start to round it off well, then take a long strip of sanding cloth and sand at it like I am shining shoes. the sanding cloth I get from the plumbing isle, its sold in rolls to be used to sand copper pipe to prep it for soldering, comes in handy for all sorts of things.

you will want the grips in place on the gun of on a second board with the frame shape to it. something big enough to hold onto either in a vice or clamped between your legs. you can also sit on the board on some steps. you just pull the ends of the cloth in a sawing motion while working it over the corners, sort of like using a survival wire saw to cut branches. or sawing someones head off with a garrot Shocked it's suprising how the sanding naturally wants to round off any irregular shape it passes over. a good workout too!

you can soak the mdf around the trigger guard with super glue, it will make it good and hard to finish sand and paint plus it will make it stronger to hold up to abuse. you can use it all the way around the frame to seal the fuzzy part where you cut it out. best to buy the bigger containers of it at a hobby shop, you will go through quite alot of it that way.
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akumabito
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« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2010, 07:31:31 pm »

I started a Mk.II version a few days ago.. scaled it up quite a bit. The thing's gonna be huge now, about 15 inch long, but the grip sits a lot better in the hand. It also leaves more space between the blades. I will add a cylinder, and a few other bits and bobs to make it a bit more chunky-looking. I think I will wrap the grips in leather laces. I don't have a dremel tool at my disposal here, and shaping them by hand is a pain.. I'm actually making a matched pair, but I'm still considering them prototypes. If I could get some waterjet cutting done dirt cheap, I would love to have a pair cut out in 6mm aluminium, with proper metal parts and walnut, or maybe even buffalo horn grips.. for now though, I still need to figure out the final design on the prototypes Smiley
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Otto Von Pifka
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« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2010, 02:11:59 am »

don't know about the laws there but last year I bought a pair of replicas for a friend, a colt army and a navy. they are cast out of zinc or something. they come apart pretty much like the real guns, just much more sloppy fit. they cock and the hammer drops like a real gun, the cylinder indexes too.
the thing about the navy is the whole front of the gun comes off when you pull a crossbar out, in fact people would carry a few loaded cylinders and slap in a fresh one to "speedload" the gun. in the army model the center pin pulls forward to let the cylinder fall out.

I paid like $65 US each, you could use the gun as a base then all you need is the front section made up.
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akumabito
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« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2010, 06:10:28 pm »

Those replicas are a no-no here. Too "modern". I could use a replica flintlock (yuck) bu nothing newer. I need to ask around a bit to have some pieces cut..
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