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Author Topic: HELP! Need to join ceramic and plastic parts  (Read 3275 times)
Mr Peter Harrow, Esq
Zeppelin Overlord
*******
United Kingdom United Kingdom

Fellow of the Victorian Steampunk Society


« Reply #25 on: February 18, 2009, 12:21:51 am »

There is a superfine white Milliput, which you should be able to buy from model shops or plumbing suppliers. The grey green variety is a standard, but they also do a terracotta colour variant.
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Proudly giving the entire Asylum The Finger!
Mr Peter Harrow, Esq
Zeppelin Overlord
*******
United Kingdom United Kingdom

Fellow of the Victorian Steampunk Society


« Reply #26 on: February 18, 2009, 12:26:03 am »

There is a superfine white Milliput, which you should be able to buy from model shops or plumbing suppliers. The grey green variety is a standard, but they also do a terracotta colour variant.
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marinermcv
Deck Hand
*
United States United States


« Reply #27 on: February 27, 2009, 05:14:08 pm »



        2-part Epoxy is the way to go, Also 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant is good stuff, Along the Lines of E6000
    It is difficult to remove on most surfaces. Wear gloves!!


  MarinerMcV
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Otto Von Pifka
Zeppelin Admiral
******
United States United States


goggles? they're here somewhere.....


« Reply #28 on: February 27, 2009, 06:02:28 pm »

along the lines of liquid nails is a competing product, PL premium. comes in the caulk gun tube and I think it's a much better product than liquid nails.

just seems a better made product, ends up stronger, easier to work with. dries just a little slower but still great stuff once it firms up. like the liquid nails, it really doesnt set up rock hard, more like dried out chewing gum.

I use it to glue the pipes into 2 litre soda bottles for my water rockets, we all know how hard it is to glue to a soda bottle!

you can also use a combo of glues and putties to do the job. a strong epoxy to do the holding, covered with a sculpting type epoxy putty. I picked up a two part putty at the hobby shop thats water soluble.
it won't glue two items together very well but it will fill and smooth nicely for painting over. I found if I wet my finger and made a sort of slip with a tiny bit of the epoxy, it would stick down better when I applied the bulk of the putty. you also can easily smooth out and move around the putty with a wet finger.
you can also clean up the edges of the putty with a wet rag easily. whats nice is it takes about 30 minutes to harden up, plenty of time to work it without having to wait forever to handle it. even putties that arent water soluble can be worked with a wet finger, as long as there is a bit of dish soap in the water. if the water feels slick between your fingertips then it will slide over the epoxy well. if you need to move around a lump of epoxy, try to move whats under the surface and not the actual wetted surface. if the soapy surface wrinkles and folds over itself, it might not stick down properly from the soap stuck in the seam.

I can't say enough about JB weld, great stuff! the only drawback is the very slow cure time. it will sag and move for another hour or two after you glom it on, you have to keep an eye on it! I like to use clear case or wrapping paper tape to trap the epoxy in place until it begins to really set up. you got to remove the tape after a few hours or its permanently glued to the epoxy. I have found I can spray primer over a small bit of the epoxy right away and the dried primer has enough surface tension to hold back the epoxy, but we are talking tiny BB sized areas.
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